Incubators Anonymous

[PD-Riverman]

Well put the birds in lockdown last night and out of 63 eggs 29 are ready to hatch on Sunday. If the time part is correct I placed them in the incubator at 3:30-3:45ish PM 20 days ago so they should start hatching tomorrow evening after 3:30pm. Atleast that is what understand but might be wrong on this.. I cannot wait!

Not really right, but it could be right----if the temp was perfect they might, if it was a little low or high the hatch time will be different. Some eggs will hatch early, some will hatch late---hopfully they will all hatch with-in 24 hours from the beginning to the last one.

Question, what was mainly wrong with the 34 eggs that were not "Ready to hatch"? Good Luck!

 

[stryker]

Not really right, but it could be right----if the temp was perfect they might, if it was a little low or high the hatch time will be different. Some eggs will hatch early, some will hatch late---hopfully they will all hatch with-in 24 hours from the beginning to the last one.

Question, what was mainly wrong with the 34 eggs that were not "Ready to hatch"? Good Luck!

28 eggs were clear to where all I could see is the yolk and nothing else. 3 had blood rings with a very small chick in it about the size of a medium gummy bear and the other three looked rotten with no growth and nasty stuff. The 29 were full to where all I could see was the air space so I kept these.


This is the plans for the Hatcher that I am going to make on Monday. The reason why the extra scrap is in the middle is because there is a gouge in that area.

 

[PD-Riverman]

28 eggs were clear to where all I could see is the yolk and nothing else. 3 had blood rings with a very small chick in it about the size of a medium gummy bear and the other three looked rotten with no growth and nasty stuff. The 29 were full to where all I could see was the air space so I kept these.


This is the plans for the Hatcher that I am going to make on Monday. The reason why the extra scrap is in the middle is because there is a gouge in that area.

Gotta you on the eggs. How thick is this plywood? I personally would not want to cut my sides/bottom/back the "wrong" way. I would try to run them the other way. Can you figure/lay out a way to do it with them run the proper way? I had rather the defect be on the inside than running them wrong to cut the defect out.

 

[gpop1]

28 eggs were clear to where all I could see is the yolk and nothing else. 3 had blood rings with a very small chick in it about the size of a medium gummy bear and the other three looked rotten with no growth and nasty stuff. The 29 were full to where all I could see was the air space so I kept these.


This is the plans for the Hatcher that I am going to make on Monday. The reason why the extra scrap is in the middle is because there is a gouge in that area.

check your dimensions as wood has a thickness that has to be taken in to account.

The easiest way to check dimensions is to get a box and draw the design on the box. Add the 1/2-3/4 or what ever thickness the wood is first then add or minus to make the finished outside dimensions correct.

 

[stryker]

Gotta you on the eggs. How thick is this plywood? I personally would not want to cut my sides/bottom/back the "wrong" way. I would try to run them the other way. Can you figure/lay out a way to do it with them run the proper way? I had rather the defect be on the inside than running them wrong to cut the defect out.

Are you talking about running the grain the correct way? I never thought about that. Guess since I am going to stain it. It is 3/4 inch thick. I can actually figure out the way the grain should go.
I can put the messed up area for the bottom face down and that should work.

check your dimensions as wood has a thickness that has to be taken in to account.

The easiest way to check dimensions is to get a box and draw the design on the box. Add the 1/2-3/4 or what ever thickness the wood is first then add or minus to make the finished outside dimensions correct.

Good point as if i dont measure correctly I would loose about 1 1/2 inch somewhere.

 

[PD-Riverman]

Are you talking about running the grain the correct way? I never thought about that. Guess since I am going to stain it. It is 3/4 inch thick. I can actually figure out the way the grain should go.
I can put the messed up area for the bottom face down and that should work.
Good point as if i dont measure correctly I would loose about 1 1/2 inch somewhere.

Plywood will bend easier one way than the other. If you cut your sides the wrong way---the cabinet walls/doors will flex more than they would the right way.

Let me say this----if you are going to build a hatcher you need to decide what kind of trays you are going to use before you cut anything. If you are going to buy factory made hatching trays, then you need to build the cabinet to fit those trays. If you are going to make your own trays---then you can build the trays to fit the cabinet. I built my trays, but I also built it where the factory trays would fit.(pic included) You need to plan all this before you cut any wood. To save money, its best to figure out the size where you can cut everything from one sheet of plywood. And YES you have to figure the thickness and the direction of the plywood in your plans. Always plan it where----when needed in the future---you can remove the top on your hatcher and the top and back on your incubator so it will be easier to work on in the future.

 

[stryker]

Plywood will bend easier one way than the other. If you cut your sides the wrong way---the cabinet walls/doors will flex more than they would the right way.

Let me say this----if you are going to build a hatcher you need to decide what kind of trays you are going to use before you cut anything. If you are going to buy factory made hatching trays, then you need to build the cabinet to fit those trays. If you are going to make your own trays---then you can build the trays to fit the cabinet. I built my trays, but I also built it where the factory trays would fit.(pic included) You need to plan all this before you cut any wood. To save money, its best to figure out the size where you can cut everything from one sheet of plywood. And YES you have to figure the thickness and the direction of the plywood in your plans. Always plan it where----when needed in the future---you can remove the top on your hatcher and the top and back on your incubator so it will be easier to work on in the future.

Never knew that, so which way is the strongest? Is it wood grain going up and down our sideways? Thanks, I should then use screws to attach everything so it can be easier to take it apart when I need to. I have found some that work nice on wood that thickness. I am planning on building my trays. Glad that I didnt just cut and mess it up.

 

[PD-Riverman]

Never knew that, so which way is the strongest? Is it wood grain going up and down our sideways? Thanks, I should then use screws to attach everything so it can be easier to take it apart when I need to. I have found some that work nice on wood that thickness. I am planning on building my trays. Glad that I didnt just cut and mess it up.

Its according to what you are building----Grain up and down for the sides of this cabinet, for the door and the back. Grain front to back on the top and bottom, and the shelf inside if you have enough. Normal is the grain running the longest length most of the time. If I was building a 2ft tall 4x8ft box I would split a 4x8 sheet to get 2-- 2x8ft for the 2 sides. I would again split another sheet the same way, then cut one of those 2x8 sheet into 2---2x4 sheets for the ends. See what I am saying. On the screws for the top/back, I pre-drill my holes, to fit the screws---then re-drill those holes in the top and back big enough that the screw slides through the hole easy. I either use a flat head screw or the washer looking pieces that a counter head screw fits in---using thin stick on weather stripping to seal those cracks as well as the door.

 

[Penny Hen]

I am curious to know if anyone here has used a reptile humidifier in an incubator? I am talking about the one that runs about $60 on Ebay and is external and pumps the humid air into the reptile's terrarium (or incubator in my case). I like the fact that when empty you just unscrew the bottle and fill it again and put it back on the machine. No opening the incubator. You set the controls for the humidity that you want it to maintain and it pumps the right amount in.

 

[stryker]

Its according to what you are building----Grain up and down for the sides of this cabinet, for the door and the back. Grain front to back on the top and bottom, and the shelf inside if you have enough. Normal is the grain running the longest length most of the time. If I was building a 2ft tall 4x8ft box I would split a 4x8 sheet to get 2-- 2x8ft for the 2 sides. I would again split another sheet the same way, then cut one of those 2x8 sheet into 2---2x4 sheets for the ends. See what I am saying. On the screws for the top/back, I pre-drill my holes, to fit the screws---then re-drill those holes in the top and back big enough that the screw slides through the hole easy. I either use a flat head screw or the washer looking pieces that a counter head screw fits in---using thin stick on weather stripping to seal those cracks as well as the door.

I do see what you are saying. Thanks I will redraw the plans to where the grain will be up and down on the sides and what you said on the top side and bottom.