Technically all orps are English, but the UK standards have a lot more fluff. More rounded - almost like cochins. It was very costly to get imported Orpingtons into the US back in 2011. In 2013 I got my 1st orp = a lavender with 50% imported English bloodlines because that's all I could afford. The next year I was able to add from Ewe Crazy Farms (now that line is at Carolina Rare Poultry) by splitting the cost with a friend. He also had some birds from Greenfire Farms. We swapped eggs a lot and enjoyed all the different colors. I personally love the big fluffy look so that's what I bred for. I spread my flock around to other friends, as "back-ups" in case of tragedy / predators. Breeding does take time so I didn't want to lose a decade of work.
Shredding can happen with lavenders so it's vital to keep black orps as well. I would hope most people breeding lavender would know they need some black/lav splits around. The APA standards are different, so the imported English bloodlines may not show well. (However, it depends on who's judging. Last year we entered a blue rooster, black hen, and black pullet. All earned class champs last year with our hen receiving grand champ in our county.)
Orps take a long time to fill out, so a hen will look nicer than a pullet. However, hatchery "buff orps" will never compare. *Note: A lot of people think they're called "Buff Orpingtons." They will ask me, "What color of 'buff Orpingtons' do you have?"
If you want to start breeding, I'd recommend investing in good stock. There are many ways to decrease cost. (Buying retired laying hens, picking up fertile eggs, or even getting shipped eggs) Why waste years trying to breed when they are easily available today? If you just want a friendly, docile pet to lay eggs then any orp will do. Just avoid hatchery birds because they're bred for quantity not long life-span.
Although they are beautiful, my Orpingtons do have some negatives:
Cost (You won't find them as chicks in feed stores for $3-5)
Poopy butt (All that fluff needs a little more bathing)
Food intake (They are bigger so more food & poop; Can free range but they don't go too far from the food bowl)
Dumb & Docile (Take longer to learn to roost, use nest boxes, find their way out of the chicken tractor to the coop. We train our chickens. Orps just need a lot more practice.)
Sensitive to changes (a flock member dies or gets sold - laying stops; chicks are added - laying stops; new feed - laying stops; new feeder - laying stops) Sometimes it's just a few days or a week; other times, they'll decide to molt for 1-2 months.
Production (Eggs are huge, but only 3-5 per week. Most breeds lay best during their 1st two years. My orps are OK layers 1st season, better the second year, and year 3 they're at their best production.)
