Input on this Coop plan

[aart]

What did you make your poop board out of? I’m considering using that white “shower board” supported by a framework of 1x2s underneath. It seems like you’d need at least ½” of plywood for it to be self-supporting and that could get really heavy.

I used luan(3/16" underlayment) and 2x2's, worked fine, but should have had 2x4 angled braces come out to under the outer 2x2's.

 

[123RedBeard]

"Black Jack" is reported to be a good coating, never used it on a floor myself ...

I'd recommend opening up the eaves, covering with hardware cloth ... and install a roof vent, or cupalo on the roof ... TX summers get HOT!

I'd try to push the nesting boxes in further into the storage are more ...

If it is gonna sit up on blocks ... block off the area underneath it with 1/4 hardware cloth ... mice, rats, skunks ... like hidey spots like that#

 

[we3ernes]

I used luan(3/16" underlaym

"Black Jack" is reported to be a good coating, never used it on a floor myself ...

I'd recommend opening up the eaves, covering with hardware cloth ... and install a roof vent, or cupalo on the roof ... TX summers get HOT!

I'd try to push the nesting boxes in further into the storage are more ...

If it is gonna sit up on blocks ... block off the area underneath it with 1/4 hardware cloth ... mice, rats, skunks ... like hidey spots like that#

I’ve read several times about “Black Jack” but I REALLY don’t like the idea of black floors, the same company makes “Cool Roof” which a similar substance that is white. I have emailed them to ask if it can be used in a similar way, but have yet to hear back.

I will open the eaves if I find it is needed, but I suspect that three huge window, two middle sized windows, and the two (large) gable vents will end up being enough. I definitely won’t be doing roof vents or a cupola since the shed has a metal roof and I don’t feel confident cutting into that (plus my husband specified that he coop can’t be fancier than the house!)

I’ll definitely look at the nesting boxes. I may be able to move the grit and calcium to a different spot in the run (since they don need to be refilled as often). That would gain me some space.

The shed will sit on runners on the gravel base, so it will have the same skirt as the run.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I didn't see the actual size of the storage area versus how much actual coop area is available for chickens. Still you have a lot of room to work with.

Some of the things I like is that the nests are against an interior wall. In Texas that will keep the nests from becoming ovens if they happen to be on a sunny wall. That's a lot of roosts and will take up a lot room as far as you working in there, but you can deal with that. By being spread out like that integration could be a lot easier. You might consider making one 6" to a foot lower than the other to encourage the bigs to sleep on the high one and free up the lower one for juveniles.

I don't see the benefit of the PVC feeders for grit and oyster shell. You are not worried about them getting wet and you very seldom need to refill them anyway. I'd consider hanging a feeder on the run wire (maybe a rabbit feeder) and carrying refills to them one a week, once a month, once a year as necessary. To me it makes the build simpler and it's really not an inconvenience as seldom as you need to refill. My philosophy is that a design is finished when you can't take anything else away, that keeps it simpler with less that can go wrong. Others feel that a design is not complete until you can't think of anything else to add. A lot of personal preference. How are you keeping the feed dry since your feeders are in the run?

I like having the brooder in the coop. I believe it helps integration tremendously if the chicks are raised with the flock. My real preference would be to have the brooder on the run wall so I could fence off portion of the run so I could isolate that for chicks or a chicken in isolation but I can't come up with a workable layout and incorporate your PVC feeders. That's not necessary anyway, I did not have that in my coop and it worked well. I did have a Grow-Out coop on the far end of the run which helped.

There are different ways to do that. The equivalent in my coop would be to put the brooder under a roost and use the top of the brooder as a droppings board. I did the same thing with my nests but that was an afterthought when I needed a juvenile roost to help with integration.

I think it will work fine to make the side of your current brooder next to the coop a wire door that opens into the coop so the adults can see the chicks. You can put another door in the storage area for access to feed and water. I could see some advantages in that for you as opposed to how I did it. If you elevate the brooder enough to slide plastic bins from Walmart under it and make the floor wire that makes cleaning and keeping the brooder dry about as easy as it gets. When using it as a brooder put something solid on the floor, I've used plywood. Cleaning just means tipping it, I hardly ever needed to scrape. When it is not used as a brooder it is available as a broody buster or an isolation area. My brooder being elevated never interfered with integration but my procedure is likely different than some others. My integration procedure is that at 5 weeks of age I open the brooder door and walk away. When they are all out of the brooder I close the door and leave it closed.

The way I read it the entire inside wall is wire except maybe the bottom half of the dutch door. Not sure about that. What is the benefit of the dutch door? Wouldn't it be simpler to make a single door? Where you are, as long as you can make it look good enough for you, you could open up the area under the porch roof to really get a ventilation boost. The porch will keep out rain.

I'd move the clean out door out from under the end of the roost and out it in the middle of that run wall next to the pop door. I think that will make clean out easier as you are not working in a corner plus you don't have to worry about removing roosts or hinging the droppings board. Plus that gives you a people door from the coop to the run. I think you will find a people door there really convenient. If you do put the clean-out door where you show, make that the top roost so you only have to remove that one to gain access to the run.

There is a lot or personal preference in what I wrote but some of that comes from experience. I've tried to read everything but probably missed some things. You have put a lot of thought and effort into this, it really looks good.

 

[PetesChicks]

Nice plans! You are going to have some happy chickens!!

It’s very similar to my coop. Mine is 10x20 with a 4” porch, so I have a little more room. My nesting boxes (2 over 2) are in the same spot as yours, but stick into my storage area so that they don’t take up coop space. It also makes a nice shelf for keeping stuff on.

I don’t have a built-in brooder like you are planning, but that is where I rigged one up for my littles this spring when I was integrating. If I had thought of it during my planning stages, I probably would have built it in like you are planning. The little doors work great, letting the chicks get away from bullies while integrating.

One thing I wish I did have, and will definitely have in my next coop, would be a people door from the coop to the run.

I also have the Dutch door separating my area from the chickens, and the plan was to able to open that to toss in their treats. It was a waste of time building it, 99% of the time I open the whole door.

I did the interior wall with 2x4 welded wire instead of chicken wire, but only because I had it on hand from building the run. Chicken wire will be fine inside the coop. I also didn’t go all the way up with it, only as high as the door is. I’ve never had a chicken fly over it.

Good luck with the new coop!

 

[aart]

I also have the Dutch door separating my area from the chickens, and the plan was to able to open that to toss in their treats. It was a waste of time building it, 99% of the time I open the whole door.

I don't use mine much either, but it sure is nice when I need it.
Just this morning had visitors, they could open top door and drop some treats.

 

[townchicks]

Oh, so nice. I'm green with envy.

 

[PetesChicks]

I forgot to add my 2 cents on Blackjack 57. I used it on my floor, and wish I had used it on my poop board. It’s covered with shavings in the coop, so not really noticeable that it’s black, and it holds up great. Their white product probably won’t stay white for long, even on your side. Coops get dirty & dusty.

 

[rosemarythyme]

I’ve read several times about “Black Jack” but I REALLY don’t like the idea of black floors, the same company makes “Cool Roof” which a similar substance that is white. I have emailed them to ask if it can be used in a similar way, but have yet to hear back.

If the company contacts you back I'm pretty sure they'll tell you that neither one is intended for chicken coop flooring.

Compare the data sheets for both types of liquid roofing and decide for yourself if they're similar enough to take the chance. I compared several products from different brands (seeing if I could find something in a smaller bucket!) but they're not all the same thing in different colors, so I went with the #57 as recommended on here.

Also keep in mind with the floor, you'll never see the black. You'll have bedding over it and everything around chickens ends up "gray" no matter what the original color was. While I extended the Black Jack up the wall about a foot you can probably use paint for that part. Doesn't have the same level of waterproofing but at least it's not black?

 

[we3ernes]

I didn't see the actual size of the storage area versus how much actual coop area is available for chickens.

The storage are will be about 4' and the coop about 8'

You might consider making one 6" to a foot lower than the other to encourage the bigs to sleep on the high one and free up the lower one for juveniles.

That's a really good idea.

I don't see the benefit of the PVC feeders for grit and oyster shell.

You are right, I guess I was just thinking of making a single design and using it for all the feeders/dispenser. However, getting them off that wall will definitely free up some space.

How are you keeping the feed dry since your feeders are in the run?

The run will be roofed and I was planning on adding a wind/rain break as needed.

My real preference would be to have the brooder on the run wall so I could fence off portion of the run so I could isolate that for chicks or a chicken in isolation but I can't come up with a workable layout and incorporate your PVC feeders.

I can add a very small run (4'x8') on the opposite side if needed for the chicks. I guess I figured they would go out into the run as they were ready?

What is the benefit of the dutch door? Wouldn't it be simpler to make a single door?

I have read many folks who enjoyed having the dutch door. They like being able to open the top and interact with the chickens without being swarmed. It also helps in introducing chickens to folks who aren't comfortable around animals. In some ways it is easier to make two smaller doors rather than one large one. But over-all, yes, it will be slightly more difficult.

Where you are, as long as you can make it look good enough for you, you could open up the area under the porch roof to really get a ventilation boost. The porch will keep out rain.

Another good idea, I had planned on adding a window to the front door as well, but that will add a ton more ventilation.

I'd move the clean out door out from under the end of the roost and out it in the middle of that run wall next to the pop door.

I'll have to think about this. I had planned the clean-out door location based on the drop of the land. At that particular location I should be able to wheel my barrow right up to the coop with the floor of the coop being just above the rim of the barrow. Not sure if the benefits you mention will outweigh the ease of just pushing everything out.

Plus that gives you a people door from the coop to the run. I think you will find a people door there really convenient.

You aren't the only one who has mentioned a people door to the run, that is definitely an upgrade I will look at. Rather than try and fit a people door pop door side by side I think I could put the pop door into the people door. I might even be able to make that people door a screen door!

There is a lot or personal preference in what I wrote but some of that comes from experience. I've tried to read everything but probably missed some things. You have put a lot of thought and effort into this, it really looks good.

Thanks so much for your detailed input, you gave me quite a few helpful ideas!