Installing Coop Windows

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by PupsNHens, Mar 15, 2018.

  1. PupsNHens

    PupsNHens Songster

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    First, a disclaimer :) I'm a first-time coop builder and have very little experience building anything like a coop.

    I'm building a 6x10 coop based on plans I purchased. I'm learning a lot from this build, including that novice-friendly doesn't always mean what you hope it means. I'm following along the plans and I'm at the install the windows part. And it basically says just that - install the windows. Now, I didn't know there were so many options with windows. I needed 24"x24" windows and picked up 3 vinyl utility windows at Lowes. From my extensive googling, I can tell you that they have a nailing fin and an integrated J-channel (it says that on the online description, but now I actually know what that means ;)).

    I'm trying to figure out the best way to install them since the nailing fin and J-channel causes the window to stick out from the side of the coop wall further than I expected. The J-channel is wider than a 1x4, but narrower than a 2x4. I found "brick molding" that might work if I file it down a little where it meets the corner of the window due to a seam that sticks out a bit there.

    Does anyone have experience installing these type of windows on a coop where the siding is already up? What's the best way to be sure I don't have any water leakage? I do already have window flashing tape to use for the install and watched a couple of videos on how to use it. Does the fact that the window sticks out away from the coop wall change anything when installing it?

    I hope that's clear. I plan to install windows this weekend, and I'm trying to plan it out.

    Thanks!
     
  2. cavemanrich

    cavemanrich Crossing the Road

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    Uninstall your siding since that should have been the last thing to be put on.
    Install your window onto your plywood sheeting. Then use a brickmold if you want. You can just install the j channel onto edge and then proceed to put up the siding. You only need to remove the siding as far down as the bottom of the window height.
    YOU CAN SKIP THE BRICKMOLD AND USE THE INTEGRATED CHANNEL OF THE WINDOW JUST THE SAME.
    Hope this helps some. Post some pix if you have further questions.
    WISHING YOU BEST.,,,,,,,,,, :highfive:
     
  3. Howard E

    Howard E Crowing

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    I used the same windows in my Woods house, and this is how I installed them, which is an idea I stole from an old chicken house, hog house, smoke house and barn on the farm where I grew up.

    Windows slide horizontally to open and close.........

    20180316_083026.jpg

    If slid to the far right, window pops out for repair or cleaning.....otherwise, it stays tucked between the siding and the framing.

    To support it in the closed position, I simply nailed a cleat to the framing to create a blind pocket for it to slip into......

    20180316_083242.jpg

    Window opening was covered with 1/2" x 1" 16 gauge welded wire......aka, 'cage wire"....that was nailed to the exterior of the framing before the siding went on....so is sandwiched between the two. Windows slides back and forth behind the wire......

    20180316_083312.jpg
     
  4. PupsNHens

    PupsNHens Songster

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    Thanks for the response. The siding is smart siding and it's attached directly to the framing (no plywood sheeting). I put it up before the roof. The hurricane ties for the rafters are attached over the siding, so removing the siding really isn't feasible; not to mention it's just me working on this for the most part, so it's not really something I want to do either. :rolleyes:

    I guess I'll figure something out. I thought I'd ask incase someone else had run into this before. Thanks again; I do appreciate the help!
     
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  5. PupsNHens

    PupsNHens Songster

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    That is awesome! I don't really have the room in my coop to put something like that together, but I love the idea! :)
     
  6. PupsNHens

    PupsNHens Songster

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    I've installed the windows, and now I'm trying to figure out the best way to trim them out. Would it be better to try to fit the brickmold into the j-channel, or to use 2x4s, which would cover the j-channel and just leave the channel empty under it? I hope that makes sense :oops:

    IMG_0586 (3).jpg
     
  7. jthornton

    jthornton Crowing

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    Normally a window like that is attached to the surface under the siding and the siding fits into the slot around the window. You might "picture frame" it with 1x3 and a good seal of caulk on the top one like OSI Quad to fill in the gaps on the T111.

    JT
     
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  8. aart

    aart Chicken Juggler!

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    That flange should be against the siding?
     
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  9. PupsNHens

    PupsNHens Songster

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    What I've learned recently (Internet searching) is that this type of window, with a nailing fin and j-channel, is designed to be installed with vinyl siding. The window is installed to the plywood sheeting via the nailing fin, then the vinyl siding is installed against the window frame under the j-channel.

    Now I'm trying to make it work here. There weren't many 24"x24" window options, and I didn't know anything about j-channels when I bought these.

    This is the window: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-So...4-in-x-24-in-Actual-23-5-in-x-23-5-in/3681940
     
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  10. cavemanrich

    cavemanrich Crossing the Road

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    I know you said in your original post that you are a beginner at building. Everyone is a beginner at some point. I think you are doing a GREAT job at this point.:thumbsup
    Consider this,,,, It is what I would do.
    Remove window and cut off the inner portion of the J-channel. Insert into opening and the outer flange will be flush with the siding. Get a handful of Stainless steel screws.(wont rust to weep stains) Fasten window thru drilled openings on surface of window to siding. On inside fill in gap between window and frame with expandable foam. That will additionally hold the window in place. (it will not fall out)
    Caulk the outside portion. You will have a flush mounted window. EZ Peazy.
    Way less work than nailing all kind of molding combinations and still left with a large protrusion. Just my view,:idunno
     

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