Installing Coop Windows

I am a retired carpenter contractor.
do not cut the nailing flange off.
You said you have the tape, now is the time to use it.

start at the bottom. put a piece of tape over the nailing fin tucked up into the channel. and extended beyond the window about 4 inches ib both sides.
next, do both sides , overlapping the bottom piece to the bottom edge of the tape and extended past the top about 4 inches.

last to the top piece the same as the bottom piece.

now you can get some common boards that will fit into the channel.

they should be wide enough to cover the tape.
start at the top and run the piece beyond the window equal to the side pieces that will be butted up to it.

now do the two side pieces and run them below the window to the bottom of the bottom piece.

cut the bottom piece to fit between the two side pieces and paint your new frame..

I hope this helps.. I could have done it faster than it took me to type this..

as a tip: when you butt the pieces into each other, spread some caulk on the joint first..
this not only helps seal out water, but it makes the joint nice and tight looking..
 
I think I'm stuck with the protruding window situation at this point since I've already installed the window and taped all around it (I didn't realize that stuff was so sticky!). If it sticks out past the trim pieces, will that cause any problems?
 
I know you said in your original post that you are a beginner at building. Everyone is a beginner at some point. I think you are doing a GREAT job at this point.:thumbsup
Consider this,,,, It is what I would do.
Remove window and cut off the inner portion of the J-channel. Insert into opening and the outer flange will be flush with the siding. Get a handful of Stainless steel screws.(wont rust to weep stains) Fasten window thru drilled openings on surface of window to siding. On inside fill in gap between window and frame with expandable foam. That will additionally hold the window in place. (it will not fall out)
Caulk the outside portion. You will have a flush mounted window. EZ Peazy.
Way less work than nailing all kind of molding combinations and still left with a large protrusion. Just my view,:idunno

This sounds like a good plan! However, I've already installed them now (got them all in yesterday). I'm pretty sure it would take me a lot longer to uninstall them without messing something up in the process. :confused: I'd do things different next time, knowing what I know now!
 
I understand all that.
but the windows are already installed.
in order to recess them farther in, they would have to be removed and the opening made larger.

the way I recommended is not fancy.
but just because it is just a chicken coop, is no reason to do a sloppy job.. If they don't provide for water to drain away from the window, the walls will eventually rot and then they can do the whole job over..
caulk is a temporary fix. no matter how good the caulk is. it will fail eventually.

they already have the tape. so no added expense there. the only additional cost would be 3 1x4 boards. and they cost less than the brick mold mentioned..
I built houses and did tons of remodeling in the 30 years I was a contractor, and I never had a single call back.. so I must have done something right, eh?
I also built 15 hair salons..
 
I've installed the windows, and now I'm trying to figure out the best way to trim them out. Would it be better to try to fit the brickmold into the j-channel, or to use 2x4s, which would cover the j-channel and just leave the channel empty under it? I hope that makes sense :oops:

View attachment 1300769

This might work or might had been mentioned already Since you already installed the window, can you frame it with 2x4s? All around to reinforce those channels using screws then hide the white part with thin outside trims so it would look like picture frame elevated or 3D look let me find my window when I did it except yours will be elevated.
 
I am a retired carpenter contractor.
do not cut the nailing flange off.
You said you have the tape, now is the time to use it.

start at the bottom. put a piece of tape over the nailing fin tucked up into the channel. and extended beyond the window about 4 inches ib both sides.
next, do both sides , overlapping the bottom piece to the bottom edge of the tape and extended past the top about 4 inches.

last to the top piece the same as the bottom piece.

now you can get some common boards that will fit into the channel.

they should be wide enough to cover the tape.
start at the top and run the piece beyond the window equal to the side pieces that will be butted up to it.

now do the two side pieces and run them below the window to the bottom of the bottom piece.

cut the bottom piece to fit between the two side pieces and paint your new frame..

I hope this helps.. I could have done it faster than it took me to type this..

as a tip: when you butt the pieces into each other, spread some caulk on the joint first..
this not only helps seal out water, but it makes the joint nice and tight looking..

Thanks for the advice! I think the channel is about 1". Since 1x4s are slightly less than 1", will the extra space in the channel cause any problems?

I understand all that.
but the windows are already installed.
in order to recess them farther in, they would have to be removed and the opening made larger.

the way I recommended is not fancy.
but just because it is just a chicken coop, is no reason to do a sloppy job.. If they don't provide for water to drain away from the window, the walls will eventually rot and then they can do the whole job over..
caulk is a temporary fix. no matter how good the caulk is. it will fail eventually.

they already have the tape. so no added expense there. the only additional cost would be 3 1x4 boards. and they cost less than the brick mold mentioned..
I built houses and did tons of remodeling in the 30 years I was a contractor, and I never had a single call back.. so I must have done something right, eh?
I also built 15 hair salons..
 
This might work or might had been mentioned already Since you already installed the window, can you frame it with 2x4s? All around to reinforce those channels using screws then hide the white part with thin outside trims so it would look like picture frame elevated or 3D look let me find my window when I did it except yours will be elevated.

At this point, that's what I'm trying to figure out. Do you use thinner trim boards that fit inside the channel and leave the window protruding, or do I use trim boards that are wider than the channel, so it covers it completely. Is one better than the other, or just a matter of preference? I've tried to search for an answer, but I haven't been able to find anything yet.
 
Thanks for the advice! I think the channel is about 1". Since 1x4s are slightly less than 1", will the extra space in the channel cause any problems?
not at all, it is only about 1/8"
once the job is done, it will look like you did it on purpose.
If you have read my post, you want the tape to overlap.
If the wood does not cover the edges of the tape when you are done, just take a razor knife and trim the excess away..
the wood trim is just protecting the tape from the sun..
 
5C634609-6657-4587-BB7F-B39208B5383D.png
At this point, that's what I'm trying to figure out. Do you use thinner trim boards that fit inside the channel and leave the window protruding, or do I use trim boards that are wider than the channel, so it covers it completely. Is one better than the other, or just a matter of preference? I've tried to search for an answer, but I haven't been able to find anything yet.

I think I will use the latter which is wider, so it covers it completely, I made few mistake w/ my coop/shed when I was building it but I just reinforce cover it rather than tearing and reassembling as long as it’s not safety frame issue. Here’s my windows except yours will elevated from the wall.
 

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