Integrating new chickens

[anvia]

I’m sure you will be fine! The main thing is you are getting prepared and seeing these issues coming - a little preparation goes a long way! If in doubt just stick to the lower calcium feeds and offer oyster shell / calcium / protein supplements additionally to a basic feed that you think is safe for all. Personally speaking I wouldn’t be too fearful over too much protein it’s something I find I have to supplement fairly often, particularly in times of stress, but I do think you are right to be cautious over too much calcium too young.
Different breeds also mature at different rates too.... brahmas for example take a long time to mature.... so don’t get too hung up on having to feed this food “x” at 12 weeks or “y” at 16 weeks. Do judge what is best for your chosen breed/s. Traditional breeds and large fowl can take longer to reach p.o.l. Commercial feeds are principally made for commercial hybrid layers which mature quickly. If you fancy it take a look at fermenting feed and using whole grains & seeds in your hens diet - it’s not as daunting as it might sound and you might find it easier (& more economical?) managing everyone’s nutritional needs safe in the knowledge there isnt excessive calcium or protein mixed up in the feed. You may well see a difference in the quality of their eggs? Equally some people find commercial feed better / easier? There’s no right or wrong it’s just working out what works best for you, your set up & your hens!
Try not to worry - it sounds as though you are doing well so far! Enjoy your chickens & best of luck!

 

[rosemarythyme]

I have an elevated 8’x10’ coop, and we have an attached “predator proof” run that’s roughly 20’x25’. We will be attaching a much larger fenced yard, maybe 100’x80’, next year.

I think the part that worries me most is when the new birds are ready to integrate with the flock. I use three stages of feed, so I’m at a loss for how to segregate feeding between pullets that still need the higher protein and no calcium that is provided with a grower feed, versus layers that need a bit less protein but definitely the extra calcium. I’ve read that feeding pullets calcium/layer feed before the 16-20 week mark can cause kidney damage, and I’ve ready that laying hens can also have health problems if they eat too much protein.

Your coop and run are a good size for adding more chickens, so that's a good start.

Don't complicate feed - feed the hens the same feed as the chicks are eating, whether that's starter, grower or all flock, and they'll be fine. As I have chicks right now my dry feed is a hatch-to-hen crumble (18% protein), and their wet feed is grower (17% protein). Oyster shell is available for the laying hens. So too much protein or too much calcium is not an issue.

For integration, I raise my chicks outdoors side by side with the hens, and they begin mingling as early as 2 weeks. My current chicks chose to move in with the hens at 4 weeks old. For more info on how I set up: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/short-on-time-recycle-a-prefab-brooder.73985/

 

[Stephanie8806]

I’m sure you will be fine! The main thing is you are getting prepared and seeing these issues coming - a little preparation goes a long way! If in doubt just stick to the lower calcium feeds and offer oyster shell / calcium / protein supplements additionally to a basic feed that you think is safe for all. Personally speaking I wouldn’t be too fearful over too much protein it’s something I find I have to supplement fairly often, particularly in times of stress, but I do think you are right to be cautious over too much calcium too young.
Different breeds also mature at different rates too.... brahmas for example take a long time to mature.... so don’t get too hung up on having to feed this food “x” at 12 weeks or “y” at 16 weeks. Do judge what is best for your chosen breed/s. Traditional breeds and large fowl can take longer to reach p.o.l. Commercial feeds are principally made for commercial hybrid layers which mature quickly. If you fancy it take a look at fermenting feed and using whole grains & seeds in your hens diet - it’s not as daunting as it might sound and you might find it easier (& more economical?) managing everyone’s nutritional needs safe in the knowledge there isnt excessive calcium or protein mixed up in the feed. You may well see a difference in the quality of their eggs? Equally some people find commercial feed better / easier? There’s no right or wrong it’s just working out what works best for you, your set up & your hens!
Try not to worry - it sounds as though you are doing well so far! Enjoy your chickens & best of luck!

Thank you! I’m definitely a planner. I like to know everything that could go wrong or be a problem so that I feel prepared if it happens!

I don’t feed my chickens pellets or crumbles, I get whole grain soy and corn free feed from Scratch and Peck feeds. ThereAre a few crumbles for the added minerals I think. I also started sprouting peas and barley for them last week as well! I’m planning on growing fodder for them in the winter too. I haven’t looked much into fermenting yet, but that was next on my list!

 

[Stephanie8806]

Your coop and run are a good size for adding more chickens, so that's a good start.

Don't complicate feed - feed the hens the same feed as the chicks are eating, whether that's starter, grower or all flock, and they'll be fine. As I have chicks right now my dry feed is a hatch-to-hen crumble (18% protein), and their wet feed is grower (17% protein). Oyster shell is available for the laying hens. So too much protein or too much calcium is not an issue.

For integration, I raise my chicks outdoors side by side with the hens, and they begin mingling as early as 2 weeks. My current chicks chose to move in with the hens at 4 weeks old. For more info on how I set up: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/short-on-time-recycle-a-prefab-brooder.73985/

Thank you thank you! Yeah, when I designed the coop, I designed it specifically to hold 18 chickens... square footage and roost space. I knew the current run would be “enough” for now but the large yard was necessary in my opinion before expanding. I figure, the more space, the happier the chickens!

And Thank you! I will definitely check out that article!

 

[rosemarythyme]

Thank you thank you! Yeah, when I designed the coop, I designed it specifically to hold 18 chickens... square footage and roost space. I knew the current run would be “enough” for now but the large yard was necessary in my opinion before expanding. I figure, the more space, the happier the chickens!

More space is always a bonus, and if you really have room and the budget for a 100'x80' run, the chickens will be very happy - it's practically free ranging at that point.

My set up is currently 20'x25' which is what you have, though my coop eats up some run space as it's inside the run. However as my aim was to have about a dozen birds (currently have 11), it's sufficient for my needs, even though a little more run space would be nice just so I could throw in more junk in there.

 

[anvia]

Sounds like you have very lucky hens!
I will confess I’m a huge fan of fermented feed most of the time - but I find it trickier with the little ones - they have been known to get into the wet feed and get into a sticky wet mess and consequently get very cold and soiled - so we now go back to dry commercial blends for the chicks.
It might reassure you to know we currently have multiple hatches from 4 months to about 2 weeks old integrating in with our adult birds right now - probably about 40 chicks outside & everyone is managing to eat what they need. We have mini flocks of various ages happily roaming around in the big hens enclosure, and whilst the pecking order is being established there isn’t really any bullying - but if you watch them there are mini territories and a lot of feeders and waterers and dust baths, every hatch has its own set still that they prefer to stick with. The youngest hens in the big hen house are about 8 weeks old & the chick house has three separate hatches integrated into it, they range from 14 days to 5 weeks - we integrate them by pulling a couple of the smaller older ones back into the brooder for a few days before we think they can move off heat. Providing that goes well then that next hatch moves up into the chick house and is accepted by the older ones. If the older ones attack the little ones in the brooder then we find the little ones are best in a separate house and we don’t integrate them until much later on.
In my experience integration at every stage is possible if you give the birds time to get used to each other as early as possible, don’t rush and then ensure everyone has plenty of space and plentiful resources.

 

[aart]

ThereAre a few crumbles for the added minerals I think.

Those are all the vitamins/minerals/animal acids...best feed that stuff wet or fermented or those 'crumbles' (probably more like dust) will not get consumed.

Here's how I integrate chicks:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/

 

[Mrs. K]

Integrating chicks works best ASAP. This summer, I took them to the coop at 1 week. That is when the mamma hen would bring them out to meet the flock, and I try and mimic that. If you watch a mamma hen, you will see, is she provides a safe place for chicks to retreat to.

So this is how I set it up:

• week one - I brood in the garage, I provide a warm spot and feed and water in a cool spot. I turn off the heat lamp at night, and put them to bed under a elevated pillow, about 2 inches, on a thick pile of bedding. I have put a temperature in there and even with the temperature in the garage was less than 40F, they were warm as toast at 97F.
• I have the wooly hen in a small dog crate.
• Week two, I create a pen in the run. A see no touch. At night, they automatically go in to the dog create at night, I close it, and place in the coop at night, back in the run in the morning.
• After 3 days, I lift the entire fence, three inches off the ground. At this time, the chicks recognize this as their safe zone. Slowly they will venture out. If you want sit down there, and wait till they come out, and give a mock chase so they scurry back under the safe zone
• This allows the chicks to venture forth, but retreat out of reach if the old girls get cranky. Make sure a chick cannot get trapped out of the safe zone.
• I feed chick starter to everyone - as I can get it easier than flock raiser which would also work, add oyster shells on the side
• This allows the chicks and hens to work out chicken society on their terms, without people.
• In a week, the chicks will be standing between the feet of a layer hen, and I take the safe zone out.
• HOWEVER, in my run, there are numerous pallets, hideouts, roosts, and hidden feed stations, which helps a great deal.

Mrs K