Introducing 5 new bantams today

[MyChicagoCoop]

Hi fellow chicken people! I have a somewhat emergency situation that I was hoping to get some advice on.

A local chicken mom is being forced to rehome her 5 bantams approx 5 months old each (she believes that two are not yet laying). Her town does not permit Chickens, and clearly there is a neighbor situation because someone called on her. These chickens are VERY well cared for, happy, and healthy. It is devastating for her, but she can't keep incurring daily fines while she fights the city.

I will be introducing them to my flock today because a.) I do not have space for quarantine and b.) I, along with a local well-respected 'chicken expert' feel comfortable introducing the two flocks without an incubation period. This woman is also a cousin of a friend, so I feel comfortable introducing when she says that they are healthy. They are four different breeds but came from the same well-known and popular local feed store. That being said, I am going to Delouse and Deworm everyone to be safe. I have never had any signs of worms or mites, so I have never done this before. I throw down DE into their coop occasionally to help with any pests, so I have never had a problem. I am going to use DE in a mason jar with holes on top to shake it on everyone and into their feathers. My biggest question is the Dewormer.

I have 3 LF and 2 silkies. I am getting 2 silkies and 3 other bantams that are even smaller (Olive egger, booted mille, and golden seabright). What product should I use? How much per chicken? I want to make sure I prevent what I can, and do it right.

Any other suggestions about introductions would be appreciated. I know that introducing without a quarantine is not going to be a popular choice, but that is the choice I have made. Thanks!

 

[RosieRose0630]

Hey!
i just recently did this with 1 year old Black Sex Link rescues, and they are probably strongest in my flock!
I'm not sure what your chicky living quarters are, but mine are "fenced in free ranged". ill go step by step...

1. i locked the new girls in the coop to explore. nesting boxes, food, water etc.
2. then i switched places. i put the old ones in the coop & let the littles roam the yard and explore.
3. after everyone had observed everything, i let them out in the yard together, monitoring for safety. they kept to themselves for the whole day, and roosting at night was ok.

i have 5 roosts in my coop, so they just slept on opposite sides, but Harriet (one of the newbies) started kicking all the old chickens off the pole before she settled down. she still does to this day!
i don't think you'll have this problem, but i thought id share just for some ore info!

hope this helps and have fun!!!!

 

[TheTwoRoos]

Your first mistake is DE,it’s uneffective and a waste of everyone’s time,if you want to use a good product,use permithian spray,I usually put it in a bottle and mix it with water.

What are you LF breeds?How old are ALL the chickens?

 

[aart]

First question I have is how big is your coop and run, in feet by feet, to ascertain if you have space for doubling your flock size?
Especially come winter when they might not be outside as much(depending on the kind of run you have).
Integration works best with extra separate but adjacent space.

Second, I second TheTwoRoos that DE is useless against external pests,
use permethrin spray or dust if you find bugs upon the close inspection you will make of the new birds..and your existing birds.

Worming should not be done unless you have done a fecal float exam and know what worms might need to be treated, then you can choose a treatment. Treating willy nilly(without proof) can create resistance and be ineffective while subjecting your birds to chemicals they don't need to be subjected to....can be stressful and cause real problems where there were none before.

Here's some tips on.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock

 

[Mrs. K]

I agree ^^ unless you see bugs - don't treat. If you see bugs don't take.