Introducing a new hen question

[Milkywheyfarmchickens]

I have the white leghorn, Henrietta. I am getting a road Island red, Red, this weekend. They are/were both bullies. Red will be separate for a bit for quarantine. She will be able to see the coop and my other hen. Vice versa for Henrietta to see her. What is the best way to introduce them one on one? I will watch them closely for a bit.

 

[cavemanrich]

Many peeps call some of their chickens "BULLIES" but in reality, they are only chickens that are at the top of pecking order.
I would introduce them and observe the activity, and as long as there are no severe injuries, let them settle in. Best to have them meet each other in free-range mode.
Do you have any other chickens?
WISHING YOU BEST,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and

 

[KingD]

I've introduced many chickens to my flock over the years and the new ones will always get bullied. This will typically go on for a week before they're accepted into the group. I'd suggest adding another feeder just in case they get prevented from accessing it.
They'll be ok though

 

[aart]

I have the white leghorn, Henrietta. I am getting a road Island red, Red, this weekend. They are/were both bullies. Red will be separate for a bit for quarantine.

Ooooo, sounds like it could be a real catchicken fight!

These are your only 2 birds?
How old are they, in months?

A "bit for quarantine" ?
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article

Here's some tips about....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[Milkywheyfarmchickens]

I was given the leghorn 2 weeks ago and am getting the Rhode island red this weekend.
@aart
The leghorn was top dog at my dads and she killed a lower ranked coop mate. The rrr is top dog at her current coop. And is picking on her coop mates. That is why she is being given to me.
My coop is a small 2-4 hen coop. . Not much room for giving hiding spots. I will use the advice you have given though for this as best as I can. They will be allowed to free range after their initial getting use to new home time.
Thanks for the advice and lesson on chicken behaviors.

 

[SulkyBantam]

Many peeps call some of their chickens "BULLIES" but in reality, they are only chickens that are at the top of pecking order

Exactly. Top position means the responsibility of the pecker.

I had a 'bully' hen, introduced a leghorn (she was being picked on in another flock) and bam, leghorn was ruler. It is different for every hen.