Is it too late in the season?

[centrarchid]

As chicks during the winter, comb type is not relevant. Additionally, depending conditions the chicks and juveniles are NOT AS COLD TOLERANT AS ADULTS. Full cold tolerance is not realized until first adult feather set is fully in.

 

[3riverschick]

Single comb won't work? Or is that similar? I'm researching and single comb looks much larger

With single combs prepare for extra care and frustration if frostbite sets in. That's why I am advocating the Woods Open Air Coop. The physics of air flow in that coop fight well against frostbite. Like Blooie said, it's all about air flow. Most novices don't build coops with correct ventilation and have frostbite issues. Because they build "pretty" coops, not functional ones. I am just trying to help you out so you don't run into problems. There are very distinct air flow patterns, building math specifications and lighting specifications for successful chicken coop. You need to provide 10 lumens of extra light per 10 sq. ft. for successful laying during darker shorter winter days . A 20 watt incandescent blub will do that. Ventilation is provide correctly by the Woods Coop. For large fowl you need 4 sq. ft. per adult bird inside and 10 sq. feet per bird in the yard outside. 1/2 those numbers for bantam birds. Perches should be no farther than 12 to 18 inches off the ground for adult large fowl so they don't hurt their feet and legs getting off them. Nest boxes should be 12x12 or 12x14 for larger heavy fowl. Don't make the boxes so large that 2 birds can squeeze in or they will, and break eggs they lay. 1 nest box per 5 laying hens. Buy a solar operated spotlight "Portofino" brand at Lowes. Position it so it shines thru the window onto the floor of the coop at night. Just enough light to reassure your birds if they hear scary sounds.
Best,
Karen
Just wait till Spring is the best advice. Build your coop during the remaining winter months and be ready to go this Spring. Honestly, you will be much happier.

 

[3riverschick]

Here ya go:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1090825/new-woods-styled-coop-10x16
Hi,
Prince T. Woods' book is online for free at Hathi Trusts\ Digital Library
Both the early edition and the 1924.
Open-air poultry houses for all climates; a practical ...
Woods, Dr. Prince Tannat, 1912.
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=ncs1.ark:/13960/t32236w44;view=1up;seq=9
--------------------
Modern fresh-air poultry houses; a new book on common sense ...
Woods, Dr. Prince Tannat, 1924
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=coo.31924003138272;view=1up;seq=7
-------------------
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1009681/woods-fresh-air-poultry-house
super thread on a Woods Coop made from pallets, just lovely.
Best Regards,
Karen ( that's all from me.)

 

[torretornado]

I'm not running electricity to the coop as of right now. We are trying to not pull any permits and also money is an issue. The coop will be attractive regardless because I will make it cute. Lol, just who I am. I did read a book about open air coops today, using the Woods model as the example. We are doing something similar but not the exact design because of the money. My husband is a contractor. As of right now, we have a spot planned out, facing south/south east, we have the area marked. Gets plenty of sun.

We are planning an open air coop for sure.

 

[torretornado]

​With single combs prepare for extra care and frustration if frostbite sets in. That's why I am advocating the Woods Open Air Coop. The physics of air flow in that coop fight well against frostbite. Like Blooie said, it's all about air flow. Most novices don't build coops with correct ventilation and have frostbite issues. Because they build "pretty" coops, not functional ones. I am just trying to help you out so you don't run into problems. There are very distinct air flow patterns, building math specifications and lighting specifications for  successful chicken coop. You need to provide 10 lumens of extra light per 10 sq. ft. for successful laying during  darker shorter winter days . A 20 watt incandescent blub will do that. Ventilation is provide correctly by the Woods Coop.   For large fowl you need 4 sq. ft. per adult bird inside and 10 sq. feet per bird in the yard outside. 1/2 those numbers for bantam birds. Perches should be no farther than 12 to 18 inches off the ground for adult large fowl so they don't hurt their feet and legs getting off them. Nest boxes should be 12x12 or 12x14 for larger heavy fowl.  Don't make the boxes so large that 2 birds can squeeze in or they will, and break  eggs they lay. 1 nest box per 5 laying hens. Buy a solar operated spotlight "Portofino" brand at Lowes. Position it so it shines thru the window onto the floor of the   coop at night. Just enough light to reassure your birds if they hear scary sounds.
Best,
 Karen
Just wait till Spring is the best advice. Build your coop during the remaining winter months and be ready to go this Spring. Honestly, you will be much happier.

This was helpful!

We are planning the coop at 4x6, and the run is planned at 10x6.

 

[torretornado]

Basically think of the woods design but without the part that "juts out" in the front, window will just go on the front of the shed style building, Large eaves, probably a gutter, salt box style 7 ft tall in front sloping to 5 in the back

 

[junebuggena]

Basically think of the woods design but without the part that "juts out" in the front, window will just go on the front of the shed style building, Large eaves, probably a gutter, salt box style 7 ft tall in front sloping to 5 in the back

It's the part that 'juts out' that makes it so effective. That part is where the fresh air comes in. And it must be sticking out like that to prevent the roosting birds from being exposed to drafting air.

 

[torretornado]

The book I read stated that as long as the windows open are only on one side (the front) There will be no drafts because there is no cross breeze.

 

[torretornado]

 

[lazy gardener]

My porch faces south. I'm going to watch the yard and see where most sun is.

Single comb won't work? Or is that similar? I'm researching and single comb looks much larger

Once they are feathered out the risk to healthy chickens in freezing weather is not that they will freeze to death, but the danger from frostbite. Ventilation is directly related to frostbite risk. People in Georgia have caused frostbite on their chickens by keeping the coop so airtight the moisture from their breathing, their poop, waterers, or other sources can’t escape. People a lot further north than Massachusetts don’t have problems with frostbite. Frostbite normally affects the comb and wattles.

There are many different types and sizes of combs on chickens, single, rose, pea, cushion, and walnut being a few. Some single combs are quite large, some not so much. Some walnut combs are large, others not so much. The larger the comb the more susceptible the comb is to frostbite. The same is true of the wattles. Some people keep single combed chickens through weather colder than you will see and don’t have those problems. Some people with chickens with smaller combs still get frostbite. There are different factors involved. But a chicken with a smaller comb has less chance of getting frostbite than one with a larger comb.

It’s like a lot of things to do with chickens. It is not that all single combed chickens will get frostbite while a pea combed chicken will never get frostbite. It’s more of a probability. The smaller combed chickens are less likely to get frostbite in freezing weather. You are playing the odds.

I think what you meant RR is that people north of Mass don't necessarily have problems with frost bite. Not that people north of Mass never have problems with frost bite! Agreed, moisture management is key.

The worst problems I've had here was the first year, when I had 5 birds in a smaller coop. IMO, the issue with the smaller coops is that there is not enough height to ensure that the birds are roosting far enough away from the walls and ceiling. If they are jammed up against the side walls, it sucks all the heat out of them. Ever tried sleeping on the floor? And if the roost is close to the back wall, their tails get tattered if their heineys are near the back wall. If they choose to sleep facing the back wall, their respiration condenses on the wall, causing increased moisture = frostbite. Same thing with those small coops when the perch is close to the ceiling. Not enough room for that respiration moisture to escape. IMO, the roost needs to be no closer to the ceiling than 2'.

As for comb style, B/C of cold weather issues, I'm sold on pea and rose combs. And there are plenty of choices for breeds with that style comb. I LOVE my EE gals. Dominique are wonderful birds, both in temperament, looks, and personality. Both are good foragers, and they balance each other in terms of being mild mannered. Wyandottes are eye candy. One of these days, I might end up with a couple Buck Eyes. Not that my flock doesn't end up with some straight combs, but those are more apt to be accidental! Even with a straight comb, any frost bite in a properly managed coop is apt to be just at the tips, and they heal quickly. One thing I'll never allow in my flock is a feather footed bird. However, I realize that I may have sealed my doom by saying NEVER.