Is this a belts-and-braces way of installing windows into a new coop?

kevinhannan

Chirping
8 Years
Aug 3, 2011
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I thought I could possibly post this on a woodworking forum;
but I (genuinely) think the kind peeps here are a better bet for
more accurate answers given the wealth of fowl-related experience.

I'm planning on a new coop build, and taking it by stages to make
sure I get it right first time. My walls and roof will be made of
12mm exterior grade 2 OSB (oriented strand board) which will
be suitably clad.

While I've got the ventilation and windows nailed; I'm working on
more light to keep the girls busy through the winter with minimal use of an
electric cfl light.

I'm thinking of routing a 6mm rabbet/rabbit(?) edge to site the plexiglass,
using sealant to secure it in place, then gluing the roofing/shed felt
around the window and finally adding some decorative molding to frame
the window.

Does this sound ok?

Many thanks for reading me and for your time. ;-)

Kevin

e2a:
spelling mistake
 
Last edited:
any pictures? Any blue prints kind of idea? The measurements are missing?

OSB? I was in the Roofing Siding and window biz and osb is the cheaper alternative I believe. Problems it swells at the edges with weather. Unless you plan on covering, Kills Sealant, or paint it OSB just can not be expesed to the weather without protection on it. With that being said plywood is the way to go. It is layered but not pressed together like OSB.

Pro's and Con's of Plywood vs. OSB. OK I found a builder article comparing the two;

OSB AND PLYWOOD: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?

Let's start with the similarities. Building codes use the phrase "wood structural panel" to describe the use of plywood and OSB. Codes recognize these two materials as the same. They are both made by compressing and gluing small pieces of wood together.

Plywood is made from thin sheets of veneer that are peeled off a log. Picture a giant pencil sharpener. These sheets are laminated together in a hot press to make plywood.

OSB is made from wood ground into thin wood strands. These strands are mixed with wax and adhesive and then hot pressed. Approximately 50 layers of strands make one sheet of OSB.

OSB has some advantages over plywood:

OSB is generally more square and has smaller dimensional tolerances
It can be manufactured into panels of up to 8' x 24', far larger than plywood
There are no soft spots such as those that can occur in plywood
OSB is made from smaller (often farmed) trees reducing the demand for old growth timber
OSB has greater shear strength than plywood; the span rating, nail pull and screw hold are all roughly the same

It can be $3 to $5 a panel less expensive than plywood. For a typical 2400 square foot home, OSB will save about $700 if used as the subfloor, sheathing, and roof decking instead of plywood.

The major disadvantage of OSB is that if it gets exposed to significant amounts of water or moisture, the edges expand by up to 15%. . .especially if they are cut edges. This swell will then telegraph onto the shingles or some flooring. When plywood gets wet, it expands evenly throughout the panel, dries more quickly and shrinks down to its original size more rapidly than OSB.

The Structural Board Association has outlined a plan to prevent this phenomenon. They maintain that dry storage, proper installation, and adequate ventilation will help prevent edge swelling of OSB.
 
Hi SteveBaz,

*Many* thanks for your incredibly informative reply.
I do appreciate the efforts you've gone to.

No blueprints or sizes are relevant at this stage as
I'd already said I'm at the planning stage. And thanks
to your reply, thinking first has paid off. You've put me
right off the wrong product (OSB) and onto plywood.
Major thanks, SteveBaz. I can't afford to make a BIG
mistake like that!

Pretty much, I was looking at adding fixed windows into
the roof panels for all-year-round light and security.

Many thanks again, SteveBaz, I do appreciate your help.
 
They make a rubber liner that goes around windows now- I'd probably use that just to make sure you don't get leaks and then do what you said- by caulking it up tight. It looks like rubber tape on a roll. Supposed to install it before you put your window in. Have you thought about solar tubes? You can google those, and build your own, too. Here is a link to a no-cost, zero electric video that is on YouTube. This link was passed around a few days ago, and it's a really neat concept. Looks pretty easy to make, too. It uses a liter soda bottle, water and a couple other things and you have a light! There are more videos on YouTube than this one about them. Here it is:
 
From reading SteveBaz post OSB doesn't seem like an unwise choice as long as you keep the ends covered with silicon or something to that effect.
 
Quote:
X2!! Lowes has them for about $18 a sheet.
Also- I am using OSB over my framing and intend on putting siding on it. So long as you side it and keep it covered up, you shouldn't have any issues.
 
It's very late where I am and I'm up at 4am,
so this is not trying to be rudely quick.

Hawkeye - Wow and double Wow! That's amazing :-0
I checked this out quickly and I will respond more fully soon.

Mystang - yeah, I did wonder about sealing *all* the edges of OSB
but then wondered if it was just easier and cheaper to go for the plywood?

ChickInDelight - Yes, I'm aware of using clear panels. The trouble is
the kids round where I live are real nasty and mean. Any clue to them
there is something to destroy and they will do it. They guy next door
asked one of the kids to stop pulling up his flowers and that night
all three of his familys cars got busted over. I'm planning my coop
build with security in mind first. My design is using a small space to
allow light in. Any electric light I use has to have a very large shade
to it to keep the light downwards.

Seroiusly, *very* many thanks for your wonderful replies. I need
to get some Z's now or I'll suffer tomorrow but please be assured I'm
ever so grateful for your wonderful replies, you;ve all given me quite
a lot to think about.

Thanks again, guys, you really are the very best there is. ;-)
 
I'd cut the hole in the siding 1/2" or so smaller than your window material all the way around, and rabbet the trim instead of trying to cut the rabbet in the siding. Cutting an accurate rabbet in panel can be a pain. But like anything else there's probably 1000 different ways to accomplish the same task.
 

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