Ivermectin use in cats?

He looks mature but not old - older non neutered toms tend to have battle scars. The neutering and rabies shot are both good ideas. I'm a little concerned that we have not been able to vaccinate Scaredy Cat. She must be neutered or at least sterile as she has never had kittens since adopting us. She is an outstanding mouser and surely earns her keep.

What an interesting story hers must be. I am really curious as to where she goes when she leaves here. She came back somewhat thin and evidently hungry as she was complaining quite loudly. I thought the 'present' of the deer mouse by my truck was a nice touch.
 
He looks mature but not old - older non neutered toms tend to have battle scars. The neutering and rabies shot are both good ideas. I'm a little concerned that we have not been able to vaccinate Scaredy Cat. She must be neutered or at least sterile as she has never had kittens since adopting us. She is an outstanding mouser and surely earns her keep.

What an interesting story hers must be. I am really curious as to where she goes when she leaves here. She came back somewhat thin and evidently hungry as she was complaining quite loudly. I thought the 'present' of the deer mouse by my truck was a nice touch.
You know, I forgot about that, you're right! He must not be more than a couple of years at most, then, I'd think. The mousing is why I wanted a cat. I'm not that much of a cat person, generally, but after seeing some big rats when the "pasture" grew up, post-tree cutting, I wished for a cat to come along and work for me again like Ghost did. I just need to know if this one is really free to stay here and if he'll stay. I called two neighbors and they didn't know anything about him. Another neighbor who supposedly has cats hasn't answered my message yet, but her SIL I spoke to earlier said she is good about neutering hers immediately.
 
Scaredy cat update: She appeared here over four years ago - emaciated and terrified of the world. Today she is thriving, in good flesh and with a shiny coat. She still remains truly feral and fully aware that her world is full of dangers. Ever so slowly she is becoming more habituated towards me. After all I am the 'bringer of food'. If she is in the open she will still bolt for cover; however, if she is in the shrubbery around the deck or behind the bushes by the pigeon loft I can get within 5' of her. If she is on the deck and I am inside, she will stay there and talk to me. She also 'talks' to me as she is waiting to be fed. She was sleeping in a heated whelping area but lost her lease when I put two pups in there. She now sleeps in a vacant dog kennel that is filled with grass hay. I can see now that her ear has not been clipped but am still certain that she has been spayed as she is approaching her fifth spring here and has never had kittens. Life is good for Scaredy cat and the mouse population is under control.
 
I've done cat rescue and TNR for the last 20 years in Florida.
Yes, Ivermectin can be extremely toxic to cats, and causes severe "Neurological damage"! The safe dosage is very tiny, and hard to measure. Strongid is MUCH safer and easier to dose, and Strongid (Pyrantel Pamoate) gets more worms than Ivermectin (neither gets tapeworms). The "Ivermectin" should be the "Injectable" form, the "1% strength" (which is 10 mg per each cc, or ml of liquid)! That being said, the "SAFE" dosage for cats is 1/10th of 1 cc per 10 lb cat ! [That's only 1 mg of ivermectin for a 10 lb cat]! The one thing it is good for, is "Mange" and/or "Ear Mites", especially in feral cats that you can't catch. You can mix it in a little canned food, but you have to make sure they get the whole dose, and then you usually have to repeat this in about a week and again in another week. If you can get a dose of "Revolution" on them it's MUCH better because it lasts and continues working for 30 days. So one dose is all you need. Revolution is "Selamectin", so it's in the same family of drugs as Ivermectin.
And never use the "Pour On" form of Ivermectin, as the other ingredients are not to be used on cats (remember, if you put it "ON" a cat, it will end up being licked off and poisoning the cat) !
And whomever wrote that it takes "20 times the recommended dose to affect a cat" is out of their mind !!! I barely pulled a cat through Ivermectin over-dosage this year, and he still shows residual effects, and probably always will (and that was almost a year ago)! It was HORRIBLE ! And it was only 2 and a half or 3 times what he should have gotten ! ALL CATS are extremely "SENSITIVE" to it ! It's not like a 'sensitivity' in "some" dogs, it's because a Cat's system is completely different in how their liver and kidneys "process" drugs ! It can be useful, in certain cases, (mange or ear mites) but you need to show a great respect for this drug, because there is such a tiny margin for ERROR ! (And the "ERROR" is usually DEADLY to the cat, unless you have 3-4 weeks of intensive, supportive, in-clinic Veterinary care; and can get him in quick enough after)!!! It's not worth the risk ! :)
 
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Tapeworms _ Praziquantel - 23-25 mg per 10 lb cat (Safe at larger dosages too). This is "Droncit" (brand name)! (Dog dosage is the same per weight.
23 - 25 mg per each 10 lbs body weight)! (One time treatment, no need to repeat). But remember, fleas bring Tapeworms, so any repeat of fleas will cause new tapeworms that need to be treated.

Roundworms and Hookworms _ Pyrantel Pamoate _ 50 mg per ml/cc. Give 2 cc per 10 lb cat. (Safe to give larger dosages too). This is "Strongid" (brand name). This is "Pinworm" treatment for children, can buy in Walgreen's in One Ounce bottle (30 cc) for about $10 - $12 dollars. (Dog dosage is less per lb than for cats ... 0.5 to 1.0 ml or cc of Pyrantel for each 10 lbs body weight). And you need to give a second dose about 10 days later in cats and dogs ! (Don't forget)! :)

It never hurts to give a little extra, too ! They'll lose some dripping from their mouth, and both of these drugs have a very high safety margin !
 
"Scaredy Cat and the Crow"


I believe that a pair of crows is nesting somewhere on my property. I have seen the male skulking quietly through the surrounding trees for the past several weeks. He has discovered the feed bowl for Scaredy Cat , and each night as I feed he glides across the front lawn into the brush on the East side of my property. As I climb the deck the race is on to see who gets to the food first - Mr Crow or Scaredy Cat. Neither will challenge the other when 'on food'. If the crow is first he will cram his gullet and then fly off to stash the feed. If Scaredy Cat is first he eats his fill before leaving and allowing Mr Crow to clean the dish. Last week the crow got there first and snagged some venison cutlets that the cat would really have liked. Too bad, Scaredy cat.
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Hi, my four year old cat has contracted a parasite. I believe it is mange. Normally, I would go to the vet. and have her treated. But I don't have the funds. I am feeding her high quality food. I 've given her baths, tried covering her in flaxseed oil, diatomaceous earth, one dose of advantge 11 and nothing! I need help....I am going to Walmart to purchase the Ivermectin, tomarrow. However, I don't want to harm my cat. Could someone-- please-- give me a very detailed description on how this med. is applied or given to cats. Thanks in advance
 
I hope you get this, I just picked up Ivomec Injection 1% for my chickens & the person working in the store mentioned how well it works on dogs and cats. I cannot find a clear answer on how much to dose them. I have 3 cats, two at 14 lbs and one at 9 lbs. Thanks you if you get this!

Your ivermectin 1% needs to be diluted, I would suggest a 20 to 1 ratio. Ivermectin is not soluble in water so people use food grade propylene glycol, glycerin or mineral oil. If you're applying topically I would suggest mineral oil, especially since propylene glycol is toxic to cats.

So 20 parts mineral oil, 1 part ivermectin 1%. There's a company called JR Enterprises that sells 60ml bottles of pre-diluted ivermectin for $25 a bottle. I don't have any affiliation with this company other than I've used this product, but I would suggest it rather than the 1% ivermectin solution.

1ml of 1% ivermectin solution contains 10,000 micrograms of ivermectin. This is why people overdose their animals, this is way high a dose. You only need a fraction of this. At a 20:1 dllution, 1 ml will give you 500 mcg, .1ml (1/10ml) gives you 50mcg. Shake well.

For dogs, for heartworm, the suggested dose is about 50mcg of ivermectin per 10 pounds of body weight. So for my spaniel mix, I'll want to give him about .4ml of the diluted ivermectin for heartworm orally. For my 70 lb lab, I'd give her .7ml. Some people want the doses a bit higher for heartworm so around 1ml for the spaniel, 1.5 ml for the lab. It's bitter so I squirt it on some plain yogurt or lowfat cottage cheese, they lap it up.

Now this is dose for heartworm. For ear mites, for mange doses are different. For injected ivermectin, dosages are diferent. For cats, I don't know. For fleas I don't know if it kills them. For fleas, I use a generic form of imidacloprid, you can buy it from DYI pest control places. Again you have to calculate the dose but that's pretty easy.

Back to cat ear mites. I'd try .1ml (1/10ml) of the diluted in each ear. For fleas ... try .2ml on the shoulders. Let us know if it works.

For snake mites, squirt .5ml (half a mil) of the 1% ivermectin (undiluted) in 1 liter of water. Shake shake shake each time you use (remember it's not soluble in water). This you can mist directly on your snakes and in their enclosures. Do so daily for a week or two or until mites are gone.
 

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