Key Design Pointers

[Ted Brown]

Another nice feature to prevent chickens from kicking out your dirt/mulch in run is to have a 4-6 inch base for framing to attach hardware cloth to.

I have read about/am interested in DLM (deep litter) in the run only, still researching. How would this impact your "4-6 inch base" comment?

Thank you!

 

[Melky]

I have read about/am interested in DLM (deep litter) in the run only, still researching. How would this impact your "4-6 inch base" comment?

Thank you!

I’m not sure as I do not do DLM. I clean out every week reason ammonia toxicity in chickens. Reducing ammonia, Ph, and humidity is key to controlling ammonia levels. Using peat and zeolite to reduce ammonia is key as well. My clean out goes to compost bins then garden. That’s the run. The coop gets cleaned several times per week and goes to compost bin.
You can see my article below if like.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/ammonia-toxicity-in-chickens.74475/

 

[Ted Brown]

...I clean out every week reason ammonia toxicity in chickens. Reducing ammonia, Ph, and humidity is key ...

The Wood's design stuff I have read claims that the "dry...ventilation" provided by the open air "cusion" effect takes care of ammonia buildup even in winter [my para-phrase] and breeds better, stronger birds. I understand that other factors matter especially access to sheltered "run" space and good poop boards maintained well.

My read so far - DLM for the run; dry/clean straw/sand method for the coop???

 

[Melky]

properly executed with 1/2" HC is predator proof, as I understand?

I was told that mice & rats (or snakes), could get through anything larger than 1/4, but I'm certainly no expert. We had an issue with rats when our birds were chicks and since we put the 1/4 in, we haven't had any losses. I live in central FL, so snakes are also a concern (not sure if you have them that far north).

1/2 inch 19 g fine for this.

 

[Ted Brown]

So I continue to read, usually check BYC along with my morning coffee. I like to think things through before I put saw to board so will continue along this path for awhile yet. I have done a materials list for the 10' by 16' Woods coop as a start and will begin to accumulate materials over the next few months.

Questions:

Ventilation during the winter?

Some threads suggest having upper vents open through the winter, the Woods designs seem to ignore this as the intent is that the upper windows are closed during colder periods.

I am not questioning the Woods design as many have used them successfully but the lack of upper venting during the winter seems counter intuitive?

Floors:

My current intent is a coop with a floor, raised on log blocks (still thinking about whether to incorporate the area under the coop as part of the run area). Then I start reading about DLM within the coop and sitting directly on the ground.

What are the pros/cons of each approach?

Note that the coop will have access to a enclosed covered run having something greater than 150 square feet.

Comments?

Thanks!

 

[aart]

I am not questioning the Woods design as many have used them successfully but the lack of upper venting during the winter seems counter intuitive?

You don't need the upper venting in winter as there is enough air exchange via the large front window without any 'flow thru' venting.

 

[jthornton]

I am not questioning the Woods design as many have used them successfully but the lack of upper venting during the winter seems counter intuitive?

The Woods design by the depth to width ratio builds a buffer against drafts while having exposure to less moist air so the moisture from breathing and pooping in the air will travel out the front on it's own as it tries to become equal in moisture content.

A closed in sleeping area with upper vents manages to get the same exchange of moist air with dry air without draft by having upper vents.

The main thing to keep in mind is you don't need air movement to allow the moisture to escape only contact with drier air is needed. A warm pot of water on the stove can demonstrate the moisture movement from moist air to dry air, to prove that the air above the pot is more moist than the surrounding air just put your head over the pot and watch your glasses fog up.

JT

 

[Ted Brown]

Everyone (esp. JT & arrt) - your guidance, links and comments are greatly appreciated!

Coop & floor design:

I plan to build a kit of the Woods K-D (knock down) panels; will fasten together using metal corners/straps or eyes & bolts or ?; 7 wall, 4 roof, 4 floor (15) panels.

I want a choice to use DLM direct on ground OR raised floor with extended run underneath. Will start with "dry bed" on raised floor. DLM in coop usage would require HC mesh panels on coop/run side to fully enclose & hold litter.

In addition to the Woods standard panels I will build an OD 10' by 16' frame using salvaged western cedar hydro poles; Coop frame will sit on vertical cedar blocks cut to length from the same poles; erect outer wall panels first, leaving inside "pier space"; insert floor panels last, using inside pier space.

Floor panels tops will be double 1" by 4" strapping set at 90 degrees, roofing asphalt on exposed top; on frames of 2" by 8'.

Walls/roof panels will be vertical pine boards on 2" by 3" frames using 1" by 4" strapping, covered with cedar "shingles" (using shim grade 16" cheap!! length w/variable widths).

Using breathable under roof membrane for roof & wall panels.

All wood will be locally sourced, rough cut; build budget goal is $750, made predator proof with & including hardware cloth for > 12' by 12' enclosed run.

Outer dimension of run to include 2' under coop floor space made predator proof (Do I need for mice! both(?) 1/2" with 1/4" HC for ground level starter strip).

Comments invited please.

 

[Ted Brown]

Covered run (1/3 of 12' by 36' pole & roof shed) attached to external Woods K-D coop.

 

[Ted Brown]

As I continue reading about Woods coops I have noted that most of those who build them modify the approach and use conventional stud wall frames and rafter based roof systems.

The original design (according to the pictures in his book) varies from this and utilizes 2" by 3" outer frames and 1" by n" stock placed vertically and reinforced using horizontal 2" by 3". The roofs are panels built the same way and appear to be supported around the outer wall edges only.

In reading @Howard E recent post I noted he was concerned about snow weight even though he had modified and strengthened the upper monitor window frame. Given he is not normally in a snow zone I assume he built what/how he felt necessary for overall building strength.

I want to follow the original structural design mainly because I have a local miller and can buy rough cut lumber at very good prices (my cut list for the 10' by 16' K-D layout is around $500) and the apparent success of these coops back in the day where (I assume) they followed the original structural design.

Local building codes do not govern small structures intended for poultry use.

Comments?

Thanks!