Large Open Coop with Covered Run Design & Build with Costs and Pics

[Missceegee]

What kind of metal? It could add to the heat effect if hit but the sun you would have a bit of an oven, with all that shade maybe not?
I use a lot of corrugated roofing tin myself. Once you get past cutting it it is fabulous. Just be big into your ventilation. I think if it were me- though I don't know your area at all- but I would want cross ventilation options. For those days when you need it. Or... install a fan. I have both and it still is scary hot for the chooks.

Corrugated metal roofing/siding. It would have window ventilation either way. And probably a fan, too. We’ve had many 100+° days. Goal would be avoiding so much wood rot.

 

[Missceegee]

What is the plastic stuff called? What does it cost? I'm looking for options to put a no-dig barrier along my garden fence. I have some scraps of metal roofing, but not nearly enough.

I do this kind a pitchfork would go through.

 

[Percheron chick]

Instead of solid metal sides I would go with hardware cloth on all but one side. You can add roll down water repellent sides or removable sheets of double wall polycarbonate sheets (greenhouse walls) to block the rain. I'm in Colorado, hardly a state where one thinks of brutal summers but I'm expanding and remodeling my coop to add open sides just as soon as lumber prices drop.

 

[3KillerBs]

That has been returned. It was going to line the floor of the elevated area (hdpe substitute), but we mixed the floor. I think a pitchfork would go trough. I have loads of old fencing (hog wire) I’m going to take and put flat outside this coop for a predator apron. This may have worked for skirt board. Will think on that.

I'm sure I CAN put a pitchfork through it (but I could do that with metal if I were determined to try). I'm looking for something that I wouldn't put a pitchfork through routinely by accident.

Corrugated metal roofing/siding. It would have window ventilation either way. And probably a fan, too. We’ve had many 100+° days. Goal would be avoiding so much wood rot.

Instead of windows, just drop it a foot or so (under a good roof overhang), and use wire up there. Heat and ammonia both rise so ventilation is needed most at the top.

Or do both. But make windows top-hinged so that they act as their own awnings.

This is my Outdoor Brooder with the tarp sides dropped so that I've got upper-level airflow -- the same thing on a smaller scale.

And here's a good link for a top-hinged window support: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

 

[Missceegee]

Instead of solid metal sides I would go with hardware cloth on all but one side. You can add roll down water repellent sides or removable sheets of double wall polycarbonate sheets (greenhouse walls) to block the rain. I'm in Colorado, hardly a state where one thinks of brutal summers but I'm expanding and remodeling my coop to add open sides just as soon as lumber prices drop.

The only areas I would make solid is one end 8’x10’ or so. The other 30’x10’ will be hardware cloth. Are you saying you’d recommend only one section of that 8x10 be solid? I’m nervous that wouldn’t give them enough wind or driving rain protection and it happens too often to put up and take down. Right now it’s daily.

 

[3KillerBs]

Instead of solid metal sides I would go with hardware cloth on all but one side. You can add roll down water repellent sides or removable sheets of double wall polycarbonate sheets (greenhouse walls) to block the rain. I'm in Colorado, hardly a state where one thinks of brutal summers but I'm expanding and remodeling my coop to add open sides just as soon as lumber prices drop.

I wouldn't trust any flexible, roll-down material in Florida -- anything there has to take tropical storms.

 

[Missceegee]

I'm sure I CAN put a pitchfork through it (but I could do that with metal if I were determined to try). I'm looking for something that I wouldn't put a pitchfork through routinely by accident.



Instead of windows, just drop it a foot or so (under a good roof overhang), and use wire up there. Heat and ammonia both rise so ventilation is needed most at the top.

Or do both. But make windows top-hinged so that they act as their own awnings.

This is my Outdoor Brooder with the tarp sides dropped so that I've got upper-level airflow -- the same thing on a smaller scale.

And here's a good link for a top-hinged window support: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

I was thinking the drop it a foot and cover with hardware cloth method. I see no circumstances that I would ever close it. Those windows sure look pretty.

You’re too funny about the pitchfork.

 

[3KillerBs]

I was thinking the drop it a foot and cover with hardware cloth method. I see no circumstances that I would ever close it. Those windows sure look pretty.

You’re too funny about the pitchfork.

I'm klutzy.

The main purpose of the skirt board -- which will go on the inside, is to hold the litter off the structural wood.

 

[aart]

I have loads of old fencing (hog wire) I’m going to take and put flat outside this coop for a predator apron.

What are the dimensions, hole sizes and wire gauge?

 

[Missceegee]

What are the dimensions, hole sizes and wire gauge?

2”x4” holes. 48” high. Unsure of gauge but it’s thick. Was used for fencing horses and hogs and donkeys for previous owner and for some perimeter. I just figured I’d try to use some of it because I have a lot. This would be buried in dirt around outside edge for digging predators.