Lavender patterned Isabel duckwing barred - lavender brown cuckoo barred - project and genetic dis

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You guys crack me up!!
How's about use the recipe and make a bantam LPID -- One of the hatcheries has 'creel' or is it 'crele' and lavender OEGB - and I have one here that I bought as a companion chick...she's great. She is just wild type -- but had health, eggs, personality. So
Gen 1 - crele male over lavender females to obtain splits -- all would have 1 lav gene and 1 barring gene
Gen 2 - select the lavender barred male and females. Males would have one barring gene - and breed these together.
Gen 3 - select double barred males and breed back to the single barred females from gen 2 just as soon as they are old enough and --> bingo pintsized LPIDs.
;)
 
ChicKat said:
I wish that I could distribute these out -- but it would take a test to make sure that the MS was no longer in my flock. Wonder if that is even possible.
Click to expand...

It's very possible!
In most states, call the county extension office and tell them you'd like your flock NPIP tested, and they'll come out and do it for free.
If your birds fail the test, the tester will tell you the best way to clear your flock, and they can come back and do it again
https://www.aphis.usda.gov/publicat...lpingYouPoultryBreeder-PA1708-FinalJuly09.pdf

We do this for 4H.

If you'd just like to privately test on your own, there are kits out there. no idea what they cost, but you could certainly call and find out.
https://www.biochek.com/poultry-elisa/mycoplasma-gallisepticum-synoviae-antibody-test-kit-2/
 
RiverOtter said:
It's very possible!
In most states, call the county extension office and tell them you'd like your flock NPIP tested, and they'll come out and do it for free.
If your birds fail the test, the tester will tell you the best way to clear your flock, and they can come back and do it again
https://www.aphis.usda.gov/publicat...lpingYouPoultryBreeder-PA1708-FinalJuly09.pdf

We do this for 4H.

If you'd just like to privately test on your own, there are kits out there. no idea what they cost, but you could certainly call and find out.
https://www.biochek.com/poultry-elisa/mycoplasma-gallisepticum-synoviae-antibody-test-kit-2/
Click to expand...
Nothing is free in Texas (testing for NPIP is only a PT test here...not MS)
 
ChicKat said:
The other three cockerels have much better combs though, I'll try to get some pictures up in the next couple of days.
Click to expand...

While my own flock is all mutts, I do have goals for them, and I've a good bit of experience with animals in general, so here's a trick for rooster picking;
Make score cards.

Write out your very own SOP with what's important to you and give each factor certain number of points. Base this not on the breed SOP, but on what is specifically important to YOU. The breed SOP only judges rather few visual traits. There are more things that are important to you than that, so be sure they are there and score them.

For me, first, my roosters are judged harshly on early maturity and temperament. I want to know that little roo chicks are just that ASAP. Anything that I can't look at and go "Oh yeah, you're a boy" by a month simply Does Not make the cut (any hen chick that fools me is culled). But, I don't like aggressive roosters either - any that shows fight at a young age likewise doesn't make the cut.

Out of those chicks, they get judged again at 12 weeks old. Now I'm looking for certain growth patterns - I want males who's chests fill out. This isn't a hard cull, but roosters who show early signs of this are up to 10 pts ahead of their brothers.

Finally, at 16 weeks, my daughter and I do a hands on exam of the birds and score them (we keep each other honest) We judge for quality of carcass, disposition, ease of handling, overall size, breed type (we like the leghorn type, but prefer a small comb, which we rarely get, but do better with our winters) and finally color. These birds are our junior roosters. A third of our last hatch made this cut.

Why so many? The very final cut is pass/fail and after they've been out and about. I want good flock roosters. If he beats up the ladies, he's gone. Spends too much time fighting, gone. Doesn't watch out for predators, gone. Doesn't fuss over keeping his ladies safe, gone. Roosters I breed from are well over a year old.

Now, I haven't listed the actual number of points we assign X trait as yours would be different anyway, but this is my system and you can see how heavily I cull for traits that are important to ME. It's easy enough to then take these birds and breed them for things like type and color.
You can also see how easy it is to judge a rooster by this system. He either has more points than his brothers or not. I have mentioned that I sold a rooster who's color I loved. While I'm wildly tempted to find him, re-buy him and breed for color, the fact that he only had 73pts and his keeper brothers had 80+ does comfort me. Beautiful as he was, still, 73, and I have his parents yet, maybe I'll get a better rooster with the same color next hatch.

;) and yep, 80+ is about the best. If you have boys consistently scoring into the 90s, you need to re-number your system, maybe now combs are scored harder, and cull harder.
 
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