losing a lot of chicks!

[Wyorp Rock]

We used the brooder plate the last 2 batches, but dug the heat lamp out at the hatcheries insistence (we have used it prior to getting the plate). The bedding is just wheat straw. It appears clean and mold free. We have been laying down paper towels over the bedding for the last 24 hours and changing them out as needed. The 'big' brooder itself was used for one batch of chicks from 2 weeks on (they spent the first 2 weeks in the small brooder we are currently using).

temps at the 'cold' end were 65f the first night, then held at 75+_ the next few nights before we brought the survivors inside the RV into a large plastic bin we have used as a brooder before. daytime temps where in the low-mid 80's all week.

They have been inside the RV, in a plastic tote with straw bedding for several days now. It feels like WE are living in a brooder now (we basically are).

Your location is not in your profile, but it would absolutely be a good idea to have some diagnostics done. Depending on where you live, your state lab may be your best choice of getting this done. This would need to be on a recently passed chick/poult that has been kept cool (refrigerated not frozen) or if you live close to the lab, you can bring in a sick live bird to have necropsied (they will humanely put it down for you). None of it sounds fun, but finding out the problem will hopefully help you save the remaining ones, as well as know if there's any changes/adjustments you may need to make or you refer back to the hatchery, etc.

You don't have to tell the name of the hatchery, but I'm curious if the chicks are from a large well known commercial hatchery or more of a small individual breeder/hatchery.

With your successfully brooding so many in the past, I lean toward the birds having something else going on. But you just never know.

I would not attempt to take rectal temps on tiny chicks, you risk damaging the vent unless you know what you're doing.

Temps sound o.k. if not a bit warm, imho. The floor does not have to be warm if the chicks have a heat source. Chicks warm themselves by either pressing their back to a heat plate (to the underside of a broody hen) or by the downward glow of a heat lamp. They do not get warm through their feet. At 10 days, depending on how tall the chicks are now, I'd raise the brooder plate to a fairly tall position so they can walk under it. Get rid of the lamp and heater. Let them have just the one warm spot and let the rest be cool.
I've raised chicks outside in 20F with just a heating pad cave, generous bedding and wind protection. Chicks can handle cooler temps much better than being hot.

You are right, the rooster booster with Corid will likely cancel the Corid's effectiveness.

Getting a fresh bag of feed is something you can do that may make a difference. Worth a shot.

Has there been any real difference in mortality since you moved them indoors?

I'd lower temps, give them as much room as you can, do what you can to get them hydrated.
If you are keeping them inside, ditch the straw and line the brooder with paper towels, an old towel or puppy pads (puppy pads are great! I do keep these on hand for chickens, dog and use around the house, even great to put under the car to catch drips when you change the oil or fluids).

Here's the list of state labs. Look up yours and call them, you can look at your state's website usually for "pricing" but a lot of people have found if they call directly and speak with the lab, explain their situation, the lab will generally work with them in getting you seen sooner, with shipping/costs, etc. Nothing to lose but a few minutes on the phone at this point.
https://www.metzerfarms.com/poultry-labs.html

 

[McChooky]

"Body temperature can be easily measured with an infrared ear thermometer at the navel (blow away the down) of young chicks. Ideally, all birds should have body temperatures between 39.5 and 40.5°C, regardless of housing system, breeder age, transportation conditions, time, etc."https://hatchability.com/chick-temperature.html

 

[mnjlovell]

"Body temperature can be easily measured with an infrared ear thermometer at the navel (blow away the down) of young chicks. Ideally, all birds should have body temperatures between 39.5 and 40.5°C, regardless of housing system, breeder age, transportation conditions, time, etc."https://hatchability.com/chick-temperature.html

I don't have an ear thermometer, but I used a IR thermometer gun on the underside of one of the turkeys near its leg (where the down was thinnest) and it registered 39.8c.

Your location is not in your profile, but it would absolutely be a good idea to have some diagnostics done. Depending on where you live, your state lab may be your best choice of getting this done. This would need to be on a recently passed chick/poult that has been kept cool (refrigerated not frozen) or if you live close to the lab, you can bring in a sick live bird to have necropsied (they will humanely put it down for you). None of it sounds fun, but finding out the problem will hopefully help you save the remaining ones, as well as know if there's any changes/adjustments you may need to make or you refer back to the hatchery, etc.

You don't have to tell the name of the hatchery, but I'm curious if the chicks are from a large well known commercial hatchery or more of a small individual breeder/hatchery.

With your successfully brooding so many in the past, I lean toward the birds having something else going on. But you just never know.

I would not attempt to take rectal temps on tiny chicks, you risk damaging the vent unless you know what you're doing.

Temps sound o.k. if not a bit warm, imho. The floor does not have to be warm if the chicks have a heat source. Chicks warm themselves by either pressing their back to a heat plate (to the underside of a broody hen) or by the downward glow of a heat lamp. They do not get warm through their feet. At 10 days, depending on how tall the chicks are now, I'd raise the brooder plate to a fairly tall position so they can walk under it. Get rid of the lamp and heater. Let them have just the one warm spot and let the rest be cool.
I've raised chicks outside in 20F with just a heating pad cave, generous bedding and wind protection. Chicks can handle cooler temps much better than being hot.

You are right, the rooster booster with Corid will likely cancel the Corid's effectiveness.

Getting a fresh bag of feed is something you can do that may make a difference. Worth a shot.

Has there been any real difference in mortality since you moved them indoors?

I'd lower temps, give them as much room as you can, do what you can to get them hydrated.
If you are keeping them inside, ditch the straw and line the brooder with paper towels, an old towel or puppy pads (puppy pads are great! I do keep these on hand for chickens, dog and use around the house, even great to put under the car to catch drips when you change the oil or fluids).

Here's the list of state labs. Look up yours and call them, you can look at your state's website usually for "pricing" but a lot of people have found if they call directly and speak with the lab, explain their situation, the lab will generally work with them in getting you seen sooner, with shipping/costs, etc. Nothing to lose but a few minutes on the phone at this point.
https://www.metzerfarms.com/poultry-labs.html

no real change in mortality rate since moving indoors. There are fewer now, so we are not losing as many per day, but we lost one Sat, 2 Sun, and one last night.

we are holding nighttime temps in the low 70's now. Daytime temps are low 80's. under the lamp is still around 90-95f. the chicks regularly move in and out from under the lamp, even in the daytime with warmer ambient. they are all eating and drinking regularly (until they start to fall ill and usually die within the hour)

I have contacted the state lab (Arizona) and they referred me to the State Vet. to start. I'm still waiting for a call back form them.