Lots of Brooder Questions!!!

https://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/chickcare.html
https://www.cacklehatchery.com/chick-care-instructions/

Is there such a thing as too much space in a brooder?

For the first two days, yes. It's probably better if they cannot get more than 3 feet away from the heat source in their first two days.

After that, too much space is not an issue.

Too little space causes problems.

How much space does a 6 week old chicken need?

Figure 2 square feet per chick at 8 weeks old.
Figure 1/2 square foot per chick for the first two weeks.
In between, they need in-between amounts. (But if you just start with 2 square feet per chick, you don't have to bother changing the size later.)

I"m wondering how brooder sizing works? Do you have something big enough for them their entire time as chicks, and wall off part until they grow bigger?

Option 1, start with something big enough, and maybe partition it for the first few days, after that let them have access to all the space for the rest of their growing time.

Option 2, start them in one space (plastic storage tub or cardboard box are common), later realize they've outgrown it, so provide more space (bigger storage tub, tape more cardboard boxes to the first one, go build something out of plywood, or just move them to the coop.)

It sounds like you would rather NOT try option 2 :)

Do chicks need roosts in the brooder? starting at what age?

Need, no. Like, yes. Anytime you feel like adding them. If you put in something really low (like a piece of wood a few inches high), they will climb on and off it before they are even a week old. They usually play on it in the daytime and sleep on the floor under the heat source until they're a bit bigger, but some will sleep on a roost by the time they're 2-3 weeks old: it depends on the individual chicks and on the temperature.

Can you use shavings for bedding?

Yes, but it's a good idea to put a layer of paper towel over the shavings for the first day or two, so the chicks learn more quickly which stuff is food. After that, they can have access to the shavings.

They will nibble some of the shavings, and they will scratch in the shavings and eat little bits of something (broken shavings? spilled food? little bugs? I don't know.) But that will not hurt them.


Is it better to have a hanging feeder and waterer?

The upper edge of the feeder or waterer should be no higher than the back of the smallest chick. At first, that means it needs to sit on the floor.

Chick feeders and waterers are usually designed to just sit on the floor and not hang, because by the time the chicks are big enough to reach a higher one--they may be eating so much food they need a bigger one anyway.

Yes, they will scratch shavings into the feed and water.
Various solutions exist. I usually just clean it out lots of times for the first few days, then put in a few bricks to make a raised platform. (Just several bricks laying next to each other.) The feed and water go on the platform, and the chicks can hop up onto the platform to eat. Because it's up, even if they scratch shavings onto it, they tend to scratch them back off again too :)

Are heating plates or heat lamps better?

Heat lamps:
--better for large numbers of chicks
--cheaper to buy
--heats the entire area (good in cold weather, bad in hot weather)
--attracts chicks to it, because it gives off light
--can cause a fire if it gets knocked down or is too close to something that can burn.

Heat plates:
--much less likely to cause a fire
--does not heat the entire area (great in hot or warm weather)
--chicks often grow feathers faster (because it doesn't heat the entire area)
--chicks are thought to sleep better when the nights are dark, and definitely do less picking at each other
--chicks can get lost and need help to get back to the heat (because it does not give off light, and because it doesn't warm the area around it as much, so they don't recognize where to go to get warm.)
--chicks have to come out from under the heat to eat and drink, which can be a problem in the first hours if they are both cold and hungry/thirsty
--more expensive

I've always used heat lamps and have never had a fire, but fires caused by heat lamps definitely do happen. By "fire," I mean it burns down the entire chicken house (happened to someone I know), or it catches the shed/barn/house on fire. Tends to kill chickens and sometimes people.

In your case, I suspect a heat plate would be a better choice. But you might want a heatlamp too for the very first day, to be sure they all get warm and eat and drink after shipping. Then remove the heat lamp that evening, be sure they are sleeping under the heat plate, and check frequently during the second and third days. Tuck any peeping, distressed chicks back under the heat plate, and be sure they're in the right place after dark.

If you do use a heat lamp, be sure the space is large enough for the chicks to get away from the heat. I think it's best if they can go somewhere as cool as 70 degrees anytime after the first day or two. Access to colder-yet temperatures is fine, too, as long as they have a suitable warm spot (under the heatlamp or heat plate.)

Is there any enrichment you can give chicks?

First day: warmth, feed, water

Second day: as above, also talk to them and look at them. Check for poopy butts. (Check butts every day in the first week; if they're fine at one week, they will probably stay fine.)

Third day: remove paper towel from brooder, and they will start to learn about wood shavings. Put in a dish of grit.

You can also offer a bit of wet chicken food, in a small dish (like the lid from a jar) or on your finger. They usually like it. It's a good treat to make them like you, and still contains all the right nutrients for them to grow.

Fourth day and following:
Can give them a clump of sod or a shovelful of dirt to dig through.
If the weather is warm, can take them outside on the lawn briefly.
Can offer grass, either attached to sod (so they can bite off little bits) or cut into tiny pieces (similar in size to the chick food they have.)
Can put in things for them to climb on and run around.

What chickens really like to do is eat, dustbathe, sit on things, practice flying, and forage for food.

So the best enrichment is to allow for those things.

I like to provide bedding they can "forage" in--dry leaves, small amounts of hay, a scoop of compost or dirt, etc (depends on what I have available.) I try to just add a little pile of something (bedding/forage) every day or so. They may be scared of the new thing, but pretty soon they're looking at it, climbing on it, scratching it around, looking for munchies in it.

It is best if they eat mostly chick starter, but a certain amount of greens seems to cause no harm. And when they busily scratch through the bedding and eat a small nibble here and there, they don't seem to eat large amounts--they still keep going back to the feeder to fill their crops.
 
I brood my chicks in an oval-shaped stock tank with a ladder over it (the heat lamp is hanging off of it). I've used straw and wood shavings, but straw is so much easier to clean up after. Putting apple cider vinegar in their water reduces chances of Pasty Butt, a deadly condition.
 
I understand being nervous about brooding chicks for the first time. After the 2nd brooding, you're going to be a boss! Just remember to keep their brooder clean, and the chicks warm.
 
I have 3 experiences with chick sets in a brooder.

First I would recommend that you read this https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/. It may help with some of the questions you are asking.

I followed the advice in that Article. I currently have 14 six week olds in a brooder space that is 3' by 6' and 5 four week olds in a space that is 3' by 4'; both spaces are inside my coop and under the drop boards; I moved them from and indoor hatch brooder within one week. HOWEVER, they have been successfully integrated with my 11 one year olds and now have free range of the coop, run and even outside during the day (only some of the chicks take advantage of this). This has been the situation for the last two weeks and at this point most of the chicks, including two of the four week olds, are trying to use the main roosts along with the older ones. There is some amount of rumble as the older ones will peck at the chicks if they come too close. I also have smaller roosts in both brooder areas but they are no longer used.

As to your questions:
  1. Do chicks need roosts in the brooder? starting at what age?
    • Yes, within two weeks.
  2. Can you use shavings for bedding?
    • I use deep (8-10") pine shaving with some straw mixed in
  3. Is it better to have a hanging feeder and waterer?
    • Yes. If they sit on the shavings the chicks mix that in.
  4. Are heating plates or heat lamps better?
    • See herein articles on "mama heating plate". Not expensive to assemble and works VERY well.
  5. Is there any enrichment you can give chicks?
    • I found a powdered mix that includes all the vitamins as well as electrolytes. I mix with their water and give it to them 1 week each month.
I think the above address most of your questions.

Best of luck!
 
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Is there such a thing as too much space in a brooder? Too little?
Unless you are raising broilers (I'm pretty sure you're not), there is no such thing as too much space. I would give them as much space as you possibly can, because chicks love to run around. There is such thing as too little space. Just like overcrowded adult chickens, chicks get very stressed and uncomfortable when they don't have enough space.

Do chicks need roosts in the brooder? starting at what age?
That depends on the chicks. I have had chicks that start roosting on their feeder at one week old, so I give them a roost. Other chicks are perfectly content to wait on roosting until they are older (4+ weeks). If you see your chicks starting to roost on their feeders and waterers, give them a roost.

Can you use shavings for bedding?
Yes, shavings make a great bedding for chicks. They are absorbent and easy to clean, they don't make too much dust, and they aren't hard or prickly on the chick's feet. The chicks can scratch around in them, which they love to do. I use pine shavings for my chicks. If the chicks do eat one, it wont hurt them. If you decide to use shavings, do not use cedar. Cedar has a lot of essential oils, and is very harmful to chickens because the oils break down the tissues in their lungs.

Are heating plates or heat lamps better?
Personally, I think heating plates are better. They allow the chicks to choose when they want heat, instead of always having heat on them. Chicks feather faster so you can move them to a coop sooner.

The most important reason for me is having a heat plate allows them to have a natural day/night cycle instead of always having light. Always having light on them actually messes with their ability to make a sleeping pattern and makes it hard for them to adjust to a period of darkness when they don't need a light anymore.

If you decide to use a light, I would strongly suggest getting an infrared light bulb so they have a more natural day and night cycle.

Can you move them to the coop at 6 weeks? Do you have to wait longer? Does one of them being a silkie change anything?
You can move them to a coop when they are fully feathered (even if it's before or after six weeks.)

I hope this answered some of your questions! Good luck with your first chicks, raising chicks is a great experience!
 
https://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/chickcare.html
https://www.cacklehatchery.com/chick-care-instructions/



For the first two days, yes. It's probably better if they cannot get more than 3 feet away from the heat source in their first two days.

After that, too much space is not an issue.

Too little space causes problems.



Figure 2 square feet per chick at 8 weeks old.
Figure 1/2 square foot per chick for the first two weeks.
In between, they need in-between amounts. (But if you just start with 2 square feet per chick, you don't have to bother changing the size later.)



Option 1, start with something big enough, and maybe partition it for the first few days, after that let them have access to all the space for the rest of their growing time.

Option 2, start them in one space (plastic storage tub or cardboard box are common), later realize they've outgrown it, so provide more space (bigger storage tub, tape more cardboard boxes to the first one, go build something out of plywood, or just move them to the coop.)

It sounds like you would rather NOT try option 2 :)



Need, no. Like, yes. Anytime you feel like adding them. If you put in something really low (like a piece of wood a few inches high), they will climb on and off it before they are even a week old. They usually play on it in the daytime and sleep on the floor under the heat source until they're a bit bigger, but some will sleep on a roost by the time they're 2-3 weeks old: it depends on the individual chicks and on the temperature.



Yes, but it's a good idea to put a layer of paper towel over the shavings for the first day or two, so the chicks learn more quickly which stuff is food. After that, they can have access to the shavings.

They will nibble some of the shavings, and they will scratch in the shavings and eat little bits of something (broken shavings? spilled food? little bugs? I don't know.) But that will not hurt them.




The upper edge of the feeder or waterer should be no higher than the back of the smallest chick. At first, that means it needs to sit on the floor.

Chick feeders and waterers are usually designed to just sit on the floor and not hang, because by the time the chicks are big enough to reach a higher one--they may be eating so much food they need a bigger one anyway.

Yes, they will scratch shavings into the feed and water.
Various solutions exist. I usually just clean it out lots of times for the first few days, then put in a few bricks to make a raised platform. (Just several bricks laying next to each other.) The feed and water go on the platform, and the chicks can hop up onto the platform to eat. Because it's up, even if they scratch shavings onto it, they tend to scratch them back off again too :)



Heat lamps:
--better for large numbers of chicks
--cheaper to buy
--heats the entire area (good in cold weather, bad in hot weather)
--attracts chicks to it, because it gives off light
--can cause a fire if it gets knocked down or is too close to something that can burn.

Heat plates:
--much less likely to cause a fire
--does not heat the entire area (great in hot or warm weather)
--chicks often grow feathers faster (because it doesn't heat the entire area)
--chicks are thought to sleep better when the nights are dark, and definitely do less picking at each other
--chicks can get lost and need help to get back to the heat (because it does not give off light, and because it doesn't warm the area around it as much, so they don't recognize where to go to get warm.)
--chicks have to come out from under the heat to eat and drink, which can be a problem in the first hours if they are both cold and hungry/thirsty
--more expensive

I've always used heat lamps and have never had a fire, but fires caused by heat lamps definitely do happen. By "fire," I mean it burns down the entire chicken house (happened to someone I know), or it catches the shed/barn/house on fire. Tends to kill chickens and sometimes people.

In your case, I suspect a heat plate would be a better choice. But you might want a heatlamp too for the very first day, to be sure they all get warm and eat and drink after shipping. Then remove the heat lamp that evening, be sure they are sleeping under the heat plate, and check frequently during the second and third days. Tuck any peeping, distressed chicks back under the heat plate, and be sure they're in the right place after dark.

If you do use a heat lamp, be sure the space is large enough for the chicks to get away from the heat. I think it's best if they can go somewhere as cool as 70 degrees anytime after the first day or two. Access to colder-yet temperatures is fine, too, as long as they have a suitable warm spot (under the heatlamp or heat plate.)



First day: warmth, feed, water

Second day: as above, also talk to them and look at them. Check for poopy butts. (Check butts every day in the first week; if they're fine at one week, they will probably stay fine.)

Third day: remove paper towel from brooder, and they will start to learn about wood shavings. Put in a dish of grit.

You can also offer a bit of wet chicken food, in a small dish (like the lid from a jar) or on your finger. They usually like it. It's a good treat to make them like you, and still contains all the right nutrients for them to grow.

Fourth day and following:
Can give them a clump of sod or a shovelful of dirt to dig through.
If the weather is warm, can take them outside on the lawn briefly.
Can offer grass, either attached to sod (so they can bite off little bits) or cut into tiny pieces (similar in size to the chick food they have.)
Can put in things for them to climb on and run around.

What chickens really like to do is eat, dustbathe, sit on things, practice flying, and forage for food.

So the best enrichment is to allow for those things.

I like to provide bedding they can "forage" in--dry leaves, small amounts of hay, a scoop of compost or dirt, etc (depends on what I have available.) I try to just add a little pile of something (bedding/forage) every day or so. They may be scared of the new thing, but pretty soon they're looking at it, climbing on it, scratching it around, looking for munchies in it.

It is best if they eat mostly chick starter, but a certain amount of greens seems to cause no harm. And when they busily scratch through the bedding and eat a small nibble here and there, they don't seem to eat large amounts--they still keep going back to the feeder to fill their crops.
Thank you for all this helpful advice! I think that I will go with a heating plate, because I am worried about fires (cat would definitely knock it over) and it falling over. I can probably borrow a lamp from a friend who has chickens for the first day or so. I was hoping that for a brooder I could get one of those big plastic storage bins, cut out the majority of the lid, and cover the opening in hardware cloth. I really need something cat proof, as my cat is an avid hunter of chipmunks and small birds. (Luckily he's terrified of the big chickens, so we don't have problems with him trying to eat them) Using cardboard boxes and taping more on seems like it could work for me, but I don't know how I would cat proof those. I already have a chick feeder, even though I don't have chicks (long story) Would it be ok to put a piece of cardboard under the waterer to keep it steady, or maybe have something buried so the top of it is at shaving level to keep it steady? I wouldn't want it to get tipped over and crush anyone. When is it ok to start holding them, aside from moving them into the brooder/under the heat plate?
 
Would it be ok to put a piece of cardboard under the waterer to keep it steady, or maybe have something buried so the top of it is at shaving level to keep it steady? I wouldn't want it to get tipped over and crush anyone.

Yes, that's fine. Or a piece of wood, or bricks, or anything else stable.

The shavings don't have to be really deep at first, and they do pack down into a solid surface, so I don't think waterer tipping over is a big concern.

And if you use the cute little chick waterers (plastic base, quart jar on top) it will probably not hurt them even if it does fall over.

When is it ok to start holding them, aside from moving them into the brooder/under the heat plate?

I try to leave them mostly alone the first day, but I hold them any time I want to after that. (Probably best to keep it under one hour of holding per chick per day--they do need to eat and sleep a lot. But I have never wanted to hold them enough for it to be a big deal.)
 
Thank you for all this helpful advice! I think that I will go with a heating plate, because I am worried about fires (cat would definitely knock it over) and it falling over. I can probably borrow a lamp from a friend who has chickens for the first day or so. I was hoping that for a brooder I could get one of those big plastic storage bins, cut out the majority of the lid, and cover the opening in hardware cloth. I really need something cat proof, as my cat is an avid hunter of chipmunks and small birds. (Luckily he's terrified of the big chickens, so we don't have problems with him trying to eat them) Using cardboard boxes and taping more on seems like it could work for me, but I don't know how I would cat proof those. I already have a chick feeder, even though I don't have chicks (long story) Would it be ok to put a piece of cardboard under the waterer to keep it steady, or maybe have something buried so the top of it is at shaving level to keep it steady? I wouldn't want it to get tipped over and crush anyone. When is it ok to start holding them, aside from moving them into the brooder/under the heat plate?
This is what I use for a brooder:
IMG_0290.jpeg
IMG_0291.jpeg

It's just a large plastic tub with holes drilled in the lid. The small holes trap heat in while letting air in and out so the chicks can breath. It is cat proof, my 15 pound cat (yes, I know she is overweight) has jumped on the lid with no problems. My other cat, who tries to hunt the chicks, can't find anywhere to reach in and grab them. The heat plate makes it heavy enough that the cats can't knock it over.

The tub can hold a lot of chicks, I just recently had 20 baby chicks in there (only for a week). Based on how many chicks you have and what size they are, you can keep them in there for up to month. You probably wont need anything to stabilize the water if you use shavings. The shavings do a good job of keeping the waterer in place.
 
Unless you are raising broilers (I'm pretty sure you're not), there is no such thing as too much space. I would give them as much space as you possibly can, because chicks love to run around. There is such thing as too little space. Just like overcrowded adult chickens, chicks get very stressed and uncomfortable when they don't have enough space.


That depends on the chicks. I have had chicks that start roosting on their feeder at one week old, so I give them a roost. Other chicks are perfectly content to wait on roosting until they are older (4+ weeks). If you see your chicks starting to roost on their feeders and waterers, give them a roost.


Yes, shavings make a great bedding for chicks. They are absorbent and easy to clean, they don't make too much dust, and they aren't hard or prickly on the chick's feet. The chicks can scratch around in them, which they love to do. I use pine shavings for my chicks. If the chicks do eat one, it wont hurt them. If you decide to use shavings, do not use cedar. Cedar has a lot of essential oils, and is very harmful to chickens because the oils break down the tissues in their lungs.


Personally, I think heating plates are better. They allow the chicks to choose when they want heat, instead of always having heat on them. Chicks feather faster so you can move them to a coop sooner.

The most important reason for me is having a heat plate allows them to have a natural day/night cycle instead of always having light. Always having light on them actually messes with their ability to make a sleeping pattern and makes it hard for them to adjust to a period of darkness when they don't need a light anymore.

If you decide to use a light, I would strongly suggest getting an infrared light bulb so they have a more natural day and night cycle.


You can move them to a coop when they are fully feathered (even if it's before or after six weeks.)

I hope this answered some of your questions! Good luck with your first chicks, raising chicks is a great experience!
Thank you for the help! No, I'm not raising broilers. I was wondering about too much space because I thought that they might wander away from the heat, then die because they're too cold. I might give them a roost either way, for my own enjoyment, but thank you for the help on when you actually need it! About the daylight cycle thing: If they are kept inside, would I want to turn out the light in the room that they're in when it gets dark? They would probably be in a walk in closet (there's PLENTY of space in there where I could put a brooder) because that's the space that's easiest to cat proof. There are no windows in there, so no natural light. Thank you so much for the help! The chicks wouldn't be coming until the spring (the earliest hatch that is offered) but my brain insists that I have everything meticulously researched and planned about 43 years before it happens. I'm so excited for chicks though!
 

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