Mahonri's 3rd Annual, BYC Easter Hatch-a-long!

OMG! Cute pics everyone.

Is there a way to add all the hatching help and nutritional info to the first page or first post? That way it's all in one place on the thread. Just a suggestion.
 
I am still in, just don't know for what! It depends on whose laying when we set. Two Isbar girls are laying well but the cream legbars girls are on a ski vacation in Aspen apparently.


I'll be in for something anyway!
 
I am still in, just don't know for what! It depends on whose laying when we set. Two Isbar girls are laying well but the cream legbars girls are on a ski vacation in Aspen apparently.


I'll be in for something anyway!
Such gorgeous girls! Everything you own is eye candy!
 
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Well thank you Mahonri. Now if they would just lay eggs so I could re-coup the cost of buying them!
barnie.gif
 
I'm going to use cut and paste because it's easy and I'm lazy:
>>>>
Hiya! I use the same method for all of my own eggs, which is posted in my signature. When hatching shipped Marans, I'll sand them like this French Cuckoo Marans egg:


14596_allg2etcjan2011_905.jpg




I only sand until I'm just through the color, and then I mist the eggs with betadine-water, mixed to the color of iced tea. This covers the contamination that could occur now that I've removed the bloom.

The idea is to promote evaporation to allow the chick to grow smaller than it would if it contained all of the moisture it started with. I have had too many chicks large enough that they couldn't pip or hatch properly- fully formed chicks that didn't make it at hatch. Once I started using this method (got it from an Emu farmer!) I have had significantly better success with shipped eggs. It doesn't seem to really be necessary with local eggs (my own) and I'm not certain why. When hatching in a really nice incubator, like a Sportsman or an rcom, it also doesn't appear to be necessary, but with most affordable models, it's a helpful method.

I do increase humidity at the end of my hatch, as per my Incubation Cheater, the same for Marans as for other eggs. My feeling is that if you have evaporated the proper amount during the first 18 days, you can't drown them with humidity at the end. Humidity merely prevents evaporation, it doesn't make eggs 'take-on' water.

This works well for me, but like most on BYC, I don't consider myself and egg-spert... I just like to share my egg-speriences to help anyone else who might be able to learn from them!

Good luck!!


<<<<

Egg-cellent idea!!

ChestnutRidge, thanks so much for the info- I'll go over all of my links and try to get it all fixed up. I know I've had several broken links already to fix...but I've got a boatload of stuff, so I'm sure that there's more! I appreciate the notice, though, or folks might never get to the info to help!

Cheers!!


WHAT IS betadine-water AND WHERE CAN I GET IT???????
 
WHAT IS betadine-water AND WHERE CAN I GET IT???????



Purdue Betadine
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Solution

Betadine Solution is the original 10% povidone-iodine solution. A unique topical microbicide. It is a fast-acting, broad-spectrum antiseptic that kills bacteria (including antibiotic resistant organisms), as well as fungi/yeasts, viruses and protozoa. It is indicated for de-germing skin, wounds and mucous membranes.
 
I'm going to use cut and paste because it's easy and I'm lazy:
>>>>
Hiya! I use the same method for all of my own eggs, which is posted in my signature. When hatching shipped Marans, I'll sand them like this French Cuckoo Marans egg:


14596_allg2etcjan2011_905.jpg




I only sand until I'm just through the color, and then I mist the eggs with betadine-water, mixed to the color of iced tea. This covers the contamination that could occur now that I've removed the bloom.

The idea is to promote evaporation to allow the chick to grow smaller than it would if it contained all of the moisture it started with. I have had too many chicks large enough that they couldn't pip or hatch properly- fully formed chicks that didn't make it at hatch. Once I started using this method (got it from an Emu farmer!) I have had significantly better success with shipped eggs. It doesn't seem to really be necessary with local eggs (my own) and I'm not certain why. When hatching in a really nice incubator, like a Sportsman or an rcom, it also doesn't appear to be necessary, but with most affordable models, it's a helpful method.

I do increase humidity at the end of my hatch, as per my Incubation Cheater, the same for Marans as for other eggs. My feeling is that if you have evaporated the proper amount during the first 18 days, you can't drown them with humidity at the end. Humidity merely prevents evaporation, it doesn't make eggs 'take-on' water.

This works well for me, but like most on BYC, I don't consider myself and egg-spert... I just like to share my egg-speriences to help anyone else who might be able to learn from them!

Good luck!!


<<<<

Egg-cellent idea!!

ChestnutRidge, thanks so much for the info- I'll go over all of my links and try to get it all fixed up. I know I've had several broken links already to fix...but I've got a boatload of stuff, so I'm sure that there's more! I appreciate the notice, though, or folks might never get to the info to help!

Cheers!!


hey, i had a dry hatch and i had 7 turkey eggs make it to lock down and only 2 hatched, i did put the eggs under the turkey hen i had for lock down. was this the problem?? or was it something i did???
 

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