Maine

[Mainechick168]

Dumb question, but this is based off Maine climate? When I googled yesterday it gave me the last frost date near the end of May. (Zone 5A) With all the snow still on the ground it seems crazy to think I could have a garden growing in a month from now! Though I suppose the giant mud pit of a driveway is a sure sign of spring.

Grace, This came from MOFGA ( Maine organic farmers and gardeners association) So I am assuming it is based on Maine. Date of last frost is different every year, so take that into consideration, and be prepared with sheets or row covers just in case we have a frost when the danger seems to have passed.

 

[Mainechick168]

I cleaned out the majority of the deep litter in the coop today. That was some heavy S*^%! I noticed it was starting to get really damp, so it needed to be done.Picked up more seeds today too

 

[gracejr]

Grace, This came from MOFGA ( Maine organic farmers and gardeners association) So I am assuming it is based on Maine. Date of last frost is different every year, so take that into consideration, and be prepared with sheets or row covers just in case we have a frost when the danger seems to have passed.

Ok thanks! I assumed it was, but wasn't completely sure what MOFGA stood for.

So tempted to pick up more seeds too, but I need to remind myself I'm better off starting small this year since it's my first! Especially since I'll have a newborn in tow as well.

 

[MustardTiger]

Bucka, how, exactly do you determine your particular microclimate? maybe that is a silly question..Thus far I have been using the Maine last frost dates in conjunction with this book:

http://www.amazon.com/How-Grow-More-Vegetables-Eighth/dp/160774189X

I have found the book VERY helpful for a beginner.

We are planning to start planting inside at the end of next week. For those of you experienced with starting inside, do you use a heat mat?

Thanks for the info on the bees Widget!

I like the idea of bringing a hive box somewhere and having someone else populate it. Nice and simple.

 

[lazy gardener]

Bucka, how, exactly do you determine your particular microclimate? maybe that is a silly question..Thus far I have been using the Maine last frost dates in conjunction with this book:

http://www.amazon.com/How-Grow-More-Vegetables-Eighth/dp/160774189X

I have found the book VERY helpful for a beginner.

We are planning to start planting inside at the end of next week. For those of you experienced with starting inside, do you use a heat mat?

Thanks for the info on the bees Widget!

I like the idea of bringing a hive box somewhere and having someone else populate it. Nice and simple.

I don't have a heat mat, too cheap to buy one. I start seeds in very small containers and juggle them around to get the most heat... on top of the fridge, behind the wood stove, and this year, I'll put some on top of the brooders to take advantage of all of that escaping heat. Then, after seedlings are up, I prick them out into flats or styrofoam cups. I've found that styrofoam cups work real well for tomatoes and peppers because the foam insulates the soil and gives a bigger root ball. As an other poster stated, start peppers earlier than recommended. I also like to give tomatoes extra time. And I'm of the mind set that it's better to plant early and risk loosing a crop or two (as long as you have the seeds to provide a second crop) than wait till later. After all, it's only seed, and if you can be eating that first salad a week or two earlier, so much the better. You can also extend your season with row covers. However, for a first time gardener, don't try to push the envelope with extra early seeding. you may get frustrated by crop failures.

 

[superchemicalgirl]

Thank you all for the garden help! One more question though... Not all the seed packets give directions for starting indoors. So how would I determine when to start them if they only say to direct sow after frost? Green beans or peas, for example. I think the only ones that gave indoor instructions were the tomatoes and bell peppers.

Many things are direct sow... green beans and peas are, as soon as the soil can be worked and isn't frozen 5 inches down is when I put them in.

Some things just don't transplant well: beans, peas, carrots are the big ones that I grow. I've transplanted lettuce (head), but probably won't do that (or cabbage) again. I transplant squash/pumpkins/cukes/etc and even though some people have issue with it, I don't.

 

[ashandvine]

Okay... so I can raise chickens and kill chickens but I can't hatch them apparently. I can read a chicken and treat a chicken and even judge a fair few.... this is frustrating. I have read about dry incubations. What is best do you think? Low humidity but steady temps? or fluctuation and points of reaching the right humidity? I am really only worried about the end the most.

I don't know if I have ached for spring the way I am this year. I have so much to do-- the litter in the barn is so wet and cross. I need to wash a few chickens just so I don't feel ashamed to see them.

Was there anyone getting brabanters? Or keeping them? I have here a cross who is lovely but she has no crest. I would love to cross her back and get crests

The Favorelle cockerels are both doing their jobs now. The Am still seems shy. One Marans has been seen trying (one out of THREE) and I believe the duck has decided to set both her eggs and the turkeys few left in the barn. I am glad she wants to set but I need the turkey to lay a few dozen more eggs! That little duck butt needs to move off for that to happen.

 

[superchemicalgirl]

Ash, I got my bees reserved for AFTER I get back from Utah so you're off the hook. Unless you want to help, of course. I can always use help.

 

[hoppy]

if they say to direct sow after frost, then it means they grow fast enough outside that in our growing season, they will bear "fruit" in our season. if they say to start them indoors, this is because they have a longer growing season then we have available here in maine and they need a head start before planting them outside. I do plant tomatos from seed outside, I plant, say a prayer and hope for the best. if you plant roma sauce, and cherry type tomatoes, they alot of times will reseed and come up on their own the next yr. I rarely have to replant my cherry tomatos unless the rotortiller was used and then I have them every where in the garden (not always a bad thing since I love tomatos)
peas are a cool season crop, when it gets hot they slow right down. beans, depend on the what type, but most like it warm. I generally plant my peas and 2 weeks later my beans but the beans are slow to come up. if I plant them next to each other, by the time the peas are going by, the greenbeans are kicking in and I pull up the pea plants all together. You can also replant peas in the late summer for a fall crop.

Thank you all for the garden help! One more question though... Not all the seed packets give directions for starting indoors. So how would I determine when to start them if they only say to direct sow after frost? Green beans or peas, for example. I think the only ones that gave indoor instructions were the tomatoes and bell peppers.

 

[lazy gardener]

Many things are direct sow... green beans and peas are, as soon as the soil can be worked and isn't frozen 5 inches down is when I put them in.

Some things just don't transplant well: beans, peas, carrots are the big ones that I grow. I've transplanted lettuce (head), but probably won't do that (or cabbage) again. I transplant squash/pumpkins/cukes/etc and even though some people have issue with it, I don't.

Peas can be planted as soon as you can work the soil. You'd want to wait until after last frost date for the beans. Large seeds sprout faster if you soak them in water for a few hours before planting in the garden. If you can cover the rows with plastic until they sprout, they should just about jump out of the soil.