Making corrugated metal roofing safe?

[melroseladi]

I also have a very long overhang on my metal roof. I am going to be putting old garden hose around the edge and caulking the seam where the hose meets the metal. I have also seen people use pipe covering as well as those swimming noodles to cover their edges.

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
You will get better questions if you start your own thread -- what's likely to happen here is a buncha people will read only the FIRST post in the thread, not noticing its date, and waste a lot of their time typing in replies to THAT question, which is kind of pointless since the original post is over a year old AND won't actually answer your question

Anyhoo... I do not have any idea what a "pottery" farm is. But metal roofing is the most common farm-building roof in most of the well-off parts of the world, and is quite safe provided you don't do anything stupid in installing it

There is nothing else out there that can really touch it for price/durability combination.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
It doesn't do that at all in my experience. Perhaps you are thinking of a different type installation? The way I'm talking about, it is not touching the metal roof except where it is screwed on. The box part of the J sort of 'hovers' out a little away from the edge of the roofing, so any water that temporarily collects in the J-trim (and frankly not many people install their stuff so level that it really collects much water or for long! LOL) is not touching the metal roofing.

I've known roofs trimmed this way that were at least 20 years old when I was working around 'em and were FINE.

I am not so sure about the garden hose or pool noodle ideas. For one thing I'd think it'd be hard to get them to stay on; for another, then you really WOULD be holding water right against the edge of the roof panel on a long-term basis.

If one wanted to do something like that, though, I'd think that sliced-lengthwise 1 1/4" corrugated sump hose would be better, because it is big enough to easily accommodate the corrugations and hollow enough that the water would sit down *away* from the metal til it drained/evaporated out. Tho you'd have to screw it on in a few places, or something like that, so it didn't blow/wash off.

Pat

 

[elmo]

Quote:
If there's any way possible to get the whole coop in the shade, do it. No ifs, ands or buts. Even a completely open sided coop (wire only on the sides) gets extremely hot in the Texas sun. I have one of those, and it gets uncomfortably hot even for my heat tolerant bantams.

A closed sided coop with a metal roof that radiates heat will turn into an oven in the sun.

 

[bryan99705]

Football helmet?

How about some soft rubber or plastic water line, slit it full length and slip it over the edge. Believe me, that stuff is sharp, still carry scars from it.

 

[Doctim]

One side of my coop is 6.5 ft. and the other is about 5 ft. Think typical shed roof. It has been tar paper over OSB but I have the sheet metal in the pen to cover it. After i install the sheet metal I am installing gutters for both protection and rainwater collection. You can collect a lot of water off a small roof in a good rain. Dual purpose coop.


Tim

 

[WayneSK]

Hiya,

I am planning to use corrugated metal roofing on my coop, but that stuff is so sharp. And it's at face level. How do you blunt the edges so no one loses an eye or head?

Thanks peeps.

I found a simple low cost solution for the corrugated metal edging of some small rooves I built here in Queensland, Australia for my bee hives. I merely cut down one side of some spare flexable irrigation poly tubing and it fit perfectly to the straight edge side and also followed the contours of the wavy end. In my case I used 4mm black tubing. If you use a piece of large tubing instead (that won't follow the contours as well) you might be able to get it to double as an eve & drain rain out one or both of the ends.