~MALAYSIAN SERAMA THREAD~ (PICS!!!)

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Hi, My name is Shannon and I just hatched out my first Serama chicks. I got 12 eggs in the mail from Kentucky and 11 were initially fertile. I thought that was great. Out of the 11 that were left I got 7 babies. 2 of those died, 1 because the yolk sac was outside of the body and 1 I don't know why. It was a tiny silvery chick. But 5 are doing great including one that had problems at first. Is this pretty typical for hatching them out? They all needed some assistance getting out of the shells. The membrane seemed to be very tuff. I kept the humidity way up between 65 and 72% with wet sponges in the bator at the end. This was my second hatching experience as I hatched assorted egg laying breed chicks earlier in the spring so I learned some things then. Some of these Serama chicks were hatched and very pretty bloody and it caused the shell to stick to them. Now the shell is off of them but their feathers are stuck together, leaving them bare in spots. What can I do about that? Sorry for so many questions but I thought I might do better next time with some expert advice. Thanks!
 
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Shannon, you actually did pretty well hatching that many. I'm thinking that perhaps you helped them out of the shell too early, causing bloody chicks. The yolk and blood should be completely absorbed by the time the chick leaves the shell on their own. The muscle contraction of the neck muscle that starts the pipping process also starts the absorption of the yolk and blood. If you hurried that process along, the ones you lost were probably as a result of this. The external yolk is an indicator that it wasn't absorbed by the chick. I leave them until the last possible minute if I do decide to step in and assist. Next time, let them go a little longer and try to allow them to hatch completely on their own. If you must help, if you see any type of blood in the veins, don't proceed with assisting them because they'll bleed out, and low BP will result in a dead chick that won't make it out or one that expires soon after. Helping them too soon will kill them quicker than you can say "Oh Dang!"
 
How do I know when to "help"? I really worry about them when they go so long in the shell. I figured I was too overanxious but don't want them to die in the shell. So again, How do I know when to help? I read where some people just clear the membrane around the beak so they can breathe. Should I do that? I usually wait all day after they pip to try to help but maybe that is not long enough, huh? I don't want to cause them them more problems. Please help........
 
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First, I want to say that if you continually help clear a chick from a shell in good hatching conditions, that doesn't promote vigor in the breed. By good hatching conditions I mean that there wasn't issues such as you didn't forget to add water or something similar, that all indications mean the hatch should be successful.

OK, how to know WHEN to help. The chick has pipped and is obviously stuck or the chick is breach in the shell (upside down and is pipping at the pointed end-very few can successfully hatch this way). If there is only the initial pip hole and it's been 18 hours, you can CAREFULLY work the shell off from around that hole towards the TOP/FAT END of the egg. Don't make it very large, just large enough to peel back the outer membrane TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE SHELL or along the pipping diameter (where the chick would go around the egg pipping the cap off) a bit to see if the blood has been absorbed on the inner membrane. If it hasn't, don't go any further. If it has, work the outer membrane back a little bit more, again, searching for the blood veins on the inner membrane. If at any time you see blood veins, STOP. You don't want to tear through a vein. If you do by accident, you can use a tiny bit of flour to clot the flow. Mind you the chick will probably stick to the membrane at that point and you will have to further assist it from there on out. It's a very slow process, you can't rush it. The chick takes about 24 hours from initial internal pip to completely absorb the yolk and blood. You'll hear them chirping inside the shell before there's an external pip, this is normal. Don't go in after the chick. It's best to just let nature take its course. They were sticky because they hadn't finished the absorption prior to hatching.

On the ones that are dried matted, you can use a paper towel dampened with warm water (no soap) and work the matted down gently in a circular motion. That film will gradually work itself loose, then peel it off. Even though you're using warm water, it's going to chill the chick so be sure you have your brooder up to temp so you can put it back in right away to warm back up. They'll fluff eventually.

If there's anything I said that doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll try to clarify. And this is the methods I use, I'm sure others do things a little differently.
 
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Awesome post High Roost Ranch!!
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Yes Awsome Post , explained very clearly . Wish someone had explained it to me , wayyyyyyyyyyyyy back when . I was just told leave them alone let nature take it's course . Of course I couldn't . Mind if I copy and keep this High Roost Ranch ,I might pass it along to a few 4-Hers I know . Tammy .B
 
Thank you so much. That was pretty clear instructions I think. I do remember the water and other things pretty well. I try to learn from every hatch. I keep careful notes of what happens each time. I just did not know how long to let them try on their own before I "helped". I do think that I "helped" too soon on these Seramas. I probably could have had 2 more live ones. Darn it! that makes me sad. I have to learn patience, something that I am not good at. In my defense they are my first Seramas and I was very anxious that nothing should happen to them. I am ashamed that I did more harm than good......I have learned from this and I will do better next time!
 
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Of course you can copy it if you think it's worthy of passing along or holding onto. If you post it elsewhere, I'd just appreciate credit for it (Julie @ HighRoostRanch.com). I try to help by sharing what I know/have experienced. If it will help someone else avoid mistakes I've made in the past, then mission accomplished.
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From what all I can see on these pic's you are def' going to need to cull both pullets and roo #2 .... they are def' showing problems and I know you don't want that so just send them this way ok?? I mean really too much cuteness IS a problem right?? Just send them over here
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Those are some seriously cute babies!!!

I have 2 more boys that are begining to look exactly like cockerel number 2 so IF your serious I could ship when the weather is cooler for just the cost of shipping and a box I have got wayyyy tooo many boys running around here and they don't sell well here, people don't know a whole lot about them or just don't wanna heat them over the winter. They LOVE to look at em and ask questions but as soon as I tell them they aren't really winter hardy for this area that seems to be a big turn off.
 
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