Managing Heat

[U_Stormcrow]

Not exactly sure what his plan is for rain. The other side of the fence is an alleyway.

That's where two smaller boards are joined. Not sure if he's putting additional blocks. I like the idea of one wall bring all screen (hardware cloth).

Thanks for the great advice!

I "updated" your photo in my post. Still learning from Aart, 3KillerBs, a couple others here, almost every day.

Definite overkill on the framing for the roof, but nice angle cuts. Shame if they have to come down.

If you can't dump water over the fence (generally, that's considered rude, if not an outright code violation), I'd look to put a shallow gutter at the lower side, then use blocks or similar to lift your purlins to provide clearance for your roof above the gutter.

Prices being what they are, metal roofing is cheapest and easiest right now, but with your length, you will have to cut it. Don't forget eyes and hands, cut sheet metal is stupid sharp. Polycarbonate is about the same price, not as durable, but will let some light thru - and of course, easier to cut with the circular saw.

 

[Htxchicks]

Aaah. The article is written in the assumption that chicks are being moved from some place warm (a brooder box with supplemental heat) to someplace cooler (a coop at ambient air temp). That's not at all what your chicks are about to experience. It is, however, the common experience, just not applicable to you.

Your coop dimensions work out as roughly 4.5' x 7' x 6' tall. That's around 30 sq ft, which passes the "thumb rule" for floor space with a flock of four pretty easily - even if its then reduced by feeding stations, nesting boxes, etc.

Windows up high are definitely the preferred location, but be aware that screen provides effectively no predator protection. Hardware cloth is the preference, secured with washers and screws. Staples - even poultry staples - really aren't up to the task.

Would still love to see pictures - or plans - to get a better idea of how you intend to ensure appropriate ventilation in those temperatures. "Open Air" coop designs are very popular in your climate as a solution to the hot and humid problem, but by the mention of windows, I suspect that's not the route you are taking.

Yes I use an open air hard ware cloth coop. It has a sloped aluminum roof. If it gets wet or cold I cover with tarps as need. They need all the ventilation in the humid hot weather. When the freeze came I stapled big cardboard up for insulation then layered tarps around most of the coop. They did fine. When it’s windy or rainy I cover about half so they can stay out of wet drafts.
A flexible open coop design is definitely popular in the Houston area. Hoop coops are a good design to look at.

 

[CluckerFamily]

I keep my new flock members in the coop for a couple weeks to make sure they know where home and safety is before letting them out into the run.
I’m in Wisconsin and have to plan for -30°F weeks in the winter, I’ll let the experts in the South advise you for Texas winters.

 

[gtaus]

If a coop is open air, what do you do in the winter for protection?

Coming from northern Minnesota where we typically reach as low as -40F in the winter, I don't think you have to worry too much about your chickens in south Texas. If you expect a freak storm with lots of snow, then I might suggest stapling up some temporary plastic wrap or heavy cardboard to block the wind and snow. Easy to put up, easy to take down. But I doubt you would probably ever need it.

 

[rosemarythyme]

As far as the question about homing the chicks by locking them in... just don't, not unless the coop is open air and/or somehow cooled off enough (shade, fans, etc) that it would be safe temperature-wise to lock them inside. Otherwise the coop becomes an oven. It'd be safer to let the chicks have access to coop and run, and manually put them in the coop at night once it's cooled off.