MARYLAND THREAD!

[italian chick]

The form indicates approval is needed for all abutting properties. I have an end unit therefore I only abut one property owner next to me. I also, even though it wasn't required got the approval from the property owner from the back across my fence.

 

[SunHwaKwon]

But there are properties on all sides of your property...It doesn't specify that it has to have a domicile or inhabitants on it. I speculate that the only valid exception is if your property ended at public land or a public alley or the like.

ETA I think you are confusing the meaning of "abutting properties". It says abutting PROPERTIES, not abutting buildings. It is referring to the land that begins right where your land ends. It would still apply even if you had a single family home or trailer or whatever and did not share walls with anyone.

 

[italian chick]

Thank you SunHwaKwon, for your explanation of abutting properties. I took a closer look at my deed and HOA By-Laws to see if
the Association has control in the way of abutting property owner. I have an end unit townhouse, I'm attached to one neighbor and the other side is the storm water management pond.

I did notice my deed is "Fee Simple" and not "condominium ownership" The community I live in was built back in the 80's which is a good thing, now these HOA's are becoming more controlling. Since my deed is fee simple I have complete ownership rights to the property , the land and any improvements to the land. It is my understanding in "condominium ownership" the common areas outside your walls to include structures, facilities, (stormwater) are controlled by the Association.

 

[Maeschak]

Thank you SunHwaKwon, for your explanation of abutting properties. I took a closer look at my deed and HOA By-Laws to see if
the Association has control in the way of abutting property owner. I have an end unit townhouse, I'm attached to one neighbor and the other side is the storm water management pond.

I did notice my deed is "Fee Simple" and not "condominium ownership" The community I live in was built back in the 80's which is a good thing, now these HOA's are becoming more controlling. Since my deed is fee simple I have complete ownership rights to the property , the land and any improvements to the land. It is my understanding in "condominium ownership" the common areas outside your walls to include structures, facilities, (stormwater) are controlled by the Association.

Wow... now that is a good catch! Good for you!

 

[SunHwaKwon]

Thank you SunHwaKwon, for your explanation of abutting properties. I took a closer look at my deed and HOA By-Laws to see if
the Association has control in the way of abutting property owner. I have an end unit townhouse, I'm attached to one neighbor and the other side is the storm water management pond.

I did notice my deed is "Fee Simple" and not "condominium ownership" The community I live in was built back in the 80's which is a good thing, now these HOA's are becoming more controlling. Since my deed is fee simple I have complete ownership rights to the property , the land and any improvements to the land. It is my understanding in "condominium ownership" the common areas outside your walls to include structures, facilities, (stormwater) are controlled by the Association.

Does that mean the storm water area is collectively owned by the condo owners?

 

[LnMcEM]

I live in Howard County. Can anyone recommend a good feed store and/or non-gmo feed that is local? That's also not super expensive?

 

[italian chick]

I will need my attorney to review my deed and by-laws. Since my deed is "Fee Simple" I hope that will work in my favor.

 

[Maeschak]

I live in Howard County. Can anyone recommend a good feed store and/or non-gmo feed that is local? That's also not super expensive?

@LnMcEM

Well, it isn't 'local', but here is where I go: http://www.ernstgrainandlivestock.com/

I am located in Frederick County and make the drive up every once in awhile to get my chicken feed. (I buy in bulk, you don't want to go up just for one bag). I have enough chickens that driving all the way up there financially works for me (the cheaper feed more than offsets the cost of gas and the drive is quite nice). They have non-GMO chicken feeds, non-soy feeds (I think you have to call ahead for the non-soy feed though), 3-grain scratch, stuff to make chicken feed, whole grains by the 50lb bags, etc. Just an FYI though, it is NOT pelleted/crumble feed. It is dry powdery/whole grain feed made with a grain mill and NOT an expensive pelleter/crumbler. The feed is fine used dry but really shines when using it to ferment or mixing with water. (The chickens waste more of milled grain feed than pellets when used dry). Basically, I give my chickens 24/7 access to dry feed and also ferment some for them when I feel like it. They are a small family-owned business providing an excellent natural product if you are looking to support an actual farmer who believes access to non-GMO grains is important.

Layer Mash is 12.25$/50lb non-GMO
Grower (19% I believe) is 13.25$/50lb non-GMO
Starter (22% I believe) is 14$/50lb non-GMO
3-Grain Scratch (10.5% I believe) is 7.75$/50lb non-GMO [This stuff will actually sprout and grow]
Turkey Grower (24% I believe) is 14.50$/50lb non-GMO
Basically, every 1% of protein costs an extra .25 cents.

They will also sell you the chicken minerals/etc to mix with your own grains if you like, oyster shell, lime, hay, straw, fish meal (or something like that), etc.

I have found that I actually prefer buying Turkey Grower (at 24% protein), a bag of oyster shell (much cheaper than the store) and some 3-grain scratch. Then I just mix up the Turkey Grower and Scratch to make the protein level I need and leave out a bowl of oyster shell. Using the Turkey Grower I can mix it 1:1 with the scratch to make a 17% protein food for my layers. When I have chicks, growers, or dinner cockerels I can just mix up the protein level I need. It is so flexible doing it this way.

If you can't tell, I love this place and wholly support it. It is so nice to be able to go to an actual farmer and purchase feed instead of getting it from some big corporation.

Feel free to PM me sometime, if I am going up I am more than happy to pick you up some, but you would have to drive to me to get it!

 

[LnMcEM]

@LnMcEM

Well, it isn't 'local', but here is where I go:  http://www.ernstgrainandlivestock.com/ 

I am located in Frederick County and make the drive up every once in awhile to get my chicken feed. (I buy in bulk, you don't want to go up just for one bag). I have enough chickens that driving all the way up there financially works for me (the cheaper feed more than offsets the cost of gas and the drive is quite nice). They have non-GMO chicken feeds, non-soy feeds (I think you have to call ahead for the non-soy feed though), 3-grain scratch, stuff to make chicken feed, whole grains by the 50lb bags, etc. Just an FYI though, it is NOT pelleted/crumble feed. It is dry powdery/whole grain feed made with a grain mill and NOT an expensive pelleter/crumbler. The feed is fine used dry but really shines when using it to ferment or mixing with water. (The chickens waste more of milled grain feed than pellets when used dry). Basically, I give my chickens 24/7 access to dry feed and also ferment some for them when I feel like it. They are a small family-owned business providing an excellent natural product if you are looking to support an actual farmer who believes access to non-GMO grains is important.

Layer Mash is 12.25$/50lb non-GMO
Grower (19% I believe) is 13.25$/50lb non-GMO
Starter (22% I believe) is 14$/50lb non-GMO
3-Grain Scratch (10.5% I believe) is 7.75$/50lb non-GMO  [This stuff will actually sprout and grow]
Turkey Grower (24% I believe) is 14.50$/50lb non-GMO
Basically, every 1% of protein costs an extra .25 cents.

They will also sell you the chicken minerals/etc to mix with your own grains if you like, oyster shell, lime, hay, straw, fish meal (or something like that), etc.

I have found that I actually prefer buying Turkey Grower (at 24% protein), a bag of oyster shell (much cheaper than the store) and some 3-grain scratch. Then I just mix up the Turkey Grower and Scratch to make the protein level I need and leave out a bowl of oyster shell. Using the Turkey Grower I can mix it 1:1 with the scratch to make a 17% protein food for my layers. When I have chicks, growers, or dinner cockerels I can just mix up the protein level I need.  It is so flexible doing it this way.

If you can't tell, I love this place and wholly support it. It is so nice to be able to go to an actual farmer and purchase feed instead of getting it from some big corporation. 

Feel free to PM me sometime, if I am going up I am more than happy to pick you up some, but you would have to drive to me to get it!

Thank you so much for your response! This is exactly the type of farm I am interested in supporting. They also have an alternative pickup location closer to me too. I do have a question about mixing it or fermenting it. How long is it safe to leave out for the chickens like that? Does have a shelf life when it's mixed or fermented? I am getting chicks for the first time next month. I had planned to do a small pvc pipe feeder for the chicks and a large bucket feeder when they're older. Would these methods still work for a mash type of feed and not spoil the feed being left out?

 

[Maeschak]

Thank you so much for your response! This is exactly the type of farm I am interested in supporting. They also have an alternative pickup location closer to me too. I do have a question about mixing it or fermenting it. How long is it safe to leave out for the chickens like that? Does have a shelf life when it's mixed or fermented? I am getting chicks for the first time next month. I had planned to do a small pvc pipe feeder for the chicks and a large bucket feeder when they're older. Would these methods still work for a mash type of feed and not spoil the feed being left out?

The one bad thing about fermented feed is that you have to feed it daily. It will dry, harden, and cake up on you if you try to use it in a regular chicken feeder that self fills. I just pile it on the ground, or put it in dog bowls, etc. But, I am really looking for some old gutters to use. Don't chuck your current feeders though, you can just keep dry feed in those to use as a back up in case you don't have time to feed fermented or just want to make sure no one goes hungry. (Fermented feed will go first! Then they will go to the dry if they are still hungry).

The fermented feed is safe to use as long as it doesn't smell disgusting. Trust me, you will know when that day arrives. If you are thinking 'hmmm... this smells a little weird' it is good to use. If you want to puke after lifting the lid it is bad. I have only had problems with my fermented feed going bad when I don't feed it to them for several days (like 5). I think the lack of stirring and moving leads to it going bad but I am not sure.

The easiest thing for me to do is just half way fill a 5 gallon Home Depot bucket with feed and then spray in warm water (I have well water so no chlorine problems) until the feed is covered with water. I check again that night or the next day and if the feed has absorbed the water I add more water until the water is above the feed. There is a difference of opinion as to whether the water needs to cover the feed or simply moisten it. Do what works for you, but I am a believer in the theory that the full covering of water creates the anaerobic situation that leads to the growth of the lacto-bacteria.

I then feed right away, even before it actually starts 'fermenting' because having the feed moist alone (even without the lacto-bugs starting) is still very beneficial to me. It saves on feed and the chickens dont just pick out the 'good pieces.' The feed will eventually start fermenting. Then just dump more feed and water in the bucket as the feed level gets low. The old lacto-bugs left in your fermenting bucket will ensure that the newly dumped in feed will ferment very quickly.

And yes, the guy who runs/owns the feed portion of the business (Josh Ernst) told me that there is someone sort of near us that picks up feed from their farm and re-sells it around this area- but I was told that the guy adds about 3$ per bag to the feed. I save a lot more money just picking it up myself. Plus, I don't think the guy who re-sells carries all the other stuff- the minerals, the oyster shell, the oats, etc. So, if you ever need some and I am going I am more than happy to pick up extra for you.

Well, good luck to you!