Mealworm farming

Oh you guys are too funny! LOL! I'm practically rolling here over some of the comments... and you in New England somewhere, you EAT them!!!!!???!!!! Aaacckkk!

Anyway, I think I will start lurking on this thread now as I'm quite leary of the future and wonder how on earth I'll be able to keep my birds! I love my birds! Don't know how I ever got along without them!

Here, I see some options.
 
I am sooo increasing production for consumption..... it's a poem :)

btw...to clarify why I heat instead of freeze wheat bran and chicken feed (I don't treat rolled oats or flour)

This is the article I read 'way back when' that prompted me to heat instead of freeze. I guess I could keep the stuff that I'm not using in the freezer for that long but I'm usually not prepared enough. Upon reading it though, I did find out that I had it too high (300 degrees or so). It only need to be around 130 degrees for 15 minutes.

I do apologize for having that incorrect.
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Control of Grain-Feeding Insects

Grain-feeding insects are treated differently from fungus-feeding insects. There are 4 main options for controlling insects feeding on stored grain.
1. Cold Temperatures: An effective method of controlling insect infestations in stored grain in winter is to lower the temperature of the grain. Rusty grain beetles and most other stored grain insects can be killed by periods of low temperatures as follows:
Grain Temperature in degrees Celsius

Time Required to kill insects

-5 C or 23° F

12 weeks
-10 C or 14° F

8 weeks
-15 C or 5° F

4 weeks
-20 C or -4° F

1 week​
Grain in bins over 6 metres in diameter will not cool sufficiently without assistance, such as through aeration, to control some insects.
2. High Temperatures: All four stages of insects (eggs, larvae, pupae and adults) will die if subjected to high temperatures for a sufficient period of time. The most realistic use of high temperatures for controlling insects would be when the grain was tough and in need of drying. In this case, the insects would be killed at the same time as the grain is dried. The insects need to be exposed to temperatures in the range of 50 to 55˚C for approximately 15 minutes.
3. Moving Grain: The use of pneumatic conveyors to move grain has been shown to give good control of some insect pests of stored grain.
4. Insecticides: Chemical treatment of the bin is another option.
Diatomaceous earth can be used for control of grain feeding insects in many stored grains. It is sold under the trade names Protect-It or Insecto.
Fumigants containing aluminum phosphide, such as Phostoxin, are available in pellet or tablet form. These fumigants should be used only when the grain temperature is above 4oC. The use and sale of aluminum phosphide in Manitoba is restricted to licensed pesticide applicators possessing a valid stored agricultural products license.
 
A word on wheat bran....or any other cereal grain used as substrate...

I'm in the middle of a HUGE allergy flareup that mimics severe pneumonia, and I THINK that the mealies' bran is to blame. So as soon as I get them a spot set up out in the barn, out they go, and I'm wearing a mask when 'working' them from here out.

So...if you have known grain dust allergies, as I do, may I suggest starting with a mask and putting filter paper over your mealie bins to keep the dust down as much as possible?

This is MISERABLE to have going on, I feel horrid, and figured a heads up would probably be a good idea.

I'm so sorry to hear that they've made you so sick
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onafixedincome. I played in my colonies enough that I've developed some sort of allergy as well. I think it's something in the frass though...only the worms....not the beetle containers. I wear a mask when I 'play' in there now and my husband now dumps the frass out for me since it carries on the wind and I feel that even if some lands on me...it makes a difference.

But I'll still eat them! hahaaaaa....when I finally do it, I'll take a photo of the meal for you-all.
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what is the difference between heating in the oven and microwaving? Also, would diatomaceous earth hurt mealworms?

I don't know the scientific difference, but I'm sure there is because of the nature of what's used to produce the heat.

Diatomaceous earth will kill the mealies. You do NOT want to use DE in the substrate or anywhere. The only options to use, for safeguarding our mealie colonies from mites, are to freeze it or heat it. There are people who do neither and are never bothered by mites.
 
If you do some research about it, there are various answers. Heating foods, by any method, changes it which is why raw or slightly cooked veggies are always best. Anytime you over cook anything, the nutrients are destroyed.

Here's an article from the New York Times, 2006, concluding some research stating it doesn't kill nutrients any more than any cooking method.

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/17/health/17real.html

and this one.....

http://shine.yahoo.com/healthy-living/does-microwaving-veggies-kill-nutrients-190700707.html

and even Wikipedia...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave_oven
"There is presently no good evidence that food is affected in microwave ovens by any other factor than the same simple temperature effects on chemistry that are common to all cooking techniques."
 
Hi! I rec'd my mealworms from Westknollamy and put them in their new home this am. I inquired about mealworms awhile back b/c I'm SOOO scared of catapillars and wanted to know if mealies are just as bad. Well y'all are right, they aren't as bad and I even touched a few and didn't freak out! I'm sure my chickens will thank y'all!
 

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