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There is a big difference between being banned for poultry use, and not approved for poultry. Don't use anything banned. As to not being approved, testing for approval is expensive. While there is significantly more money involved in testing, and approval for cattle, then pork, then sheep/goats. There simply isn't enough money to be made on additional testing, and approval for use in poultry. Unless it's actually banned, quite a few livestock products work very well on poultry too, but the manufacturer simply did not go to the additional expense to get it approved for poultry.

Pyrethrin breaks down much faster, and is one of the few insecticides here, that's approved for use, and can still maintain "organic" status for those that are certified organic. Inside, or under lab conditions, residue might be of a higher concern, however, outside under typical weather conditions, it breaks down so rapidly there is not enough residue to have any effect on emerging larva emerging from the nits. This, of course, is when it's mixed, and used in accordance to the strength for mites.

As to constantly needing reapplication. That's a broad sweep of the brush. Even when you get rid of mites, that does not mean they can't be reintroduced, and return at a later time. Sooner, or later wild birds, squirrels, and other things can, and will likely reintroduce them. Treating once, without reapplying when the nits hatch, is not consistent with how it's to be done. Quite a few will treat, and it appears to have done the job, but fail to do the follow up. A few weeks later, the ones that emerged from the nits, have grown, multiplied, and once again become a problem. Not treating the entire coop, is another issue. Depending on your nesting boxes, simply putting new nesting material without washing, and/or treating the actual nesting boxes too, is leaving them a means to return. Feeders, waterers, etc., should be at least thoroughly washed as well. Failing to thoroughly tackle the problem, is an invitation for them to return. It's not necessarily a failure on the part of the product.

Typically, properly treating the entire coop, the way it should be, then repeating, will solve the problem for a decent length of time.
 
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I am starting the 3rd week of using sulphur to try to control/eliminate my mites. We just did a close inspection of three birds that had worse infestations than most of the others, did not find any mites. I plan to continue dusting all bird weekly for six weeks at least

I have done the roosts and area, the birds twice, have gauze bags hanging (eg just below the top of the pop doors} where the chickens brush underneath and get dusted, dust baths, nests.

I have read formal studies that say sulfur will control mites on all birds in the flock even if some do not come in direct contact.

I have also read that mites will not "hatch" in temperatures beloe 8-9C. This may be a factor as we are below that.
 
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I starting the 3rd week of using sulphur to try to control/eliminate my mites. We just did a close inspection of three birds that had worse infestations than most of the others, did not find any mites. I plan to continue dusting all bird weekly for six weeks at least

I have done the roosts and area, the birds twice, have gauze bags hanging (eg just below the top of the pop doors} where the chickens brush underneath and get dusted, dust baths, nests.

I have read formal studies that say sulfur will control mites on all birds in the flock even if some do not come in direct contact.

I have also read that mites will not "hatch" in temperatures beloe 8-9C. This may be a factor as we are below that.

So glad you found something that works for you. I use elemental sulfur as well, the research for it is good and it hasn't failed me yet. Gosh, sometimes getting rid of an infestation is impossible, so always good to hear a happy end to one of these posts... only battled it since October ;)
 
Will those egg over-winter...then hatch in the spring?

My research says that:
  1. Northern Fowl mites spend their lives on a single host but can survive for some weeks (3+?) off a host but then die.
  2. Red mites do not live on the host and can survive many months without access to a host.
There are other types of mites, I have not found any specifics about them but have not really searched. I am reasonably certain that I have NFM.

I am resigned to having an ongoing inspection and maintenance routine.
 
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