MITES!!!! Dusted-they seem a little better, the vet is no help!

[Big C]

If you start with DE as a feed addative and a dust for your coop you should never have to resort to chemicals. Once you start with it keep using it in your feed and as a dusting agent in all areas your flock inhabits. Long term cost is less than chemical alternatives.
Keep your coop(s) and run(s) as close to your area's natural environment as possible. The more closed off from nature the more infestations of insects of disease you will have. The more you make them what they are not naturally the less they will be able to fight off natural diseases/pests.
Cost of keeping a flock as close to your natural environment (per specie of bird for your area) should be profitable. Pets or not...
An egg should not cost more than you can buy one for at Wal Mart for the same nutritional value, If they sold such a thing...

 

[ivan3]

We've had good results from the Ivermectin alone. If this is a mite infestation (or if not and you want to prevent an occurrence) Tea Tree oil rubbed into roosts is also effective adjunct. Ivermectin and tea tree oil (oil should not be applied directly on or into chooks) exhibit the most rapid kill times in tests on human mites.

Is is possible for you to post up a clear shot of your most affected chook?

Do you have a jeweler's loupe or other magnifier? Northern Fowl mites and/or their body parts show up clearly under x10 mag. At least you could be sure. If you have a magnifier check the base of the feather shafts near the cockerel's? tail.
If these are fowl mites they tend to gravitate to roo's butts first (like feathers, not hen fluff). They are easier to examine after they go to roost and this also matches time of highest level of activity of mites.

After you've been handling the chooks do you ever feel anything crawling on you? (another less pleasant way of making a differential diagnosis).

ed:format

 

[robbdebbie]

I just used the ivermectin pour on, and it was really easy. It would have been easier if I had another hand, but it went well. The show girls were the easiest

I tried to use the sevin dust first, and I just felt like I was needing too much to get them covered. Then the mites could just run up to their heads like fleas. I did a search for "pour on ivermectin" topic title only on here. The first post is really informative. It says don't eat the eggs for 10 days after you use the ivermectin.


Debbie

 

[vangela]

Hello there,

I saw your message and just read a good tip how to dust or powder a chicken.
put the powder in a bag and then wrap the chicken in it with her head sticking out. shake the bag and makes sure all areas are dusted. that way it does not come in her eyes or on her head.
have not tried it myself but think it will work and will do so next time I powder my girls.

 

[kayri]

Quote:
I have to say that I tried that and it was not really as easy as it sounds. They really don't want their bodies in that bag and they flap their wings and fight to try to get free, and then they tear a hole in the bag, and I kind of gave up after the second one. maybe I'm not doing it right. I'm open for any suggestions. . .

 

[MimiChick]

Quote:
The very first thing I bought for my chickens was DE. I've used it liberally in the coop/bedding and as an additive to thier food. One of my girls still got a bad infestation of mites. DE is good, it HELPS in prevention of mites, etc., but it is not a complete wonder/miracle substance. I've since had to use both permethrin (poultry dust) and ivermectin for this particular girl, along with vitamins to build her up and make her less susceptible. Sometimes you DO have to resort to chemicals to clear up a problem.

 

[kbaij]

Well, here is an update! I re-dusted everybody a second time and filled an extra feeder with crimped oats (which they Love!!) I ordered DE, but it hasn't arrived yet. The skin on them that was fire engine red is now only slightly pink in some spots. They all have new feathers coming in. As far as cleaning their coop, I just finished their new 12' x 12' coop. I dusted them and put them all right in their new place! (Perfect timing) I haven't checked t see if they are gaining weight by feel yet (after dusting them twice, and moving them, they are sure that I am trying t kill them!!!!!) They are back t their perky sassy selves.........THANKS for all the help once again!!!

 

[Msbear]

a great dusting method I just read about today said to start at the neck. Then proceed to the rest of the bird. This creates a death line that the mites cannot pass to get to the head. sounded good to me

I have ivermectin injectable 1% Can I use that topically? like 2 drops per bantam? around the vent and under wings?

 

[chookchick]

Are you sure they aren't just molting? The timing is right for them. Check out some of these gals!:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=257565&p=7
I wouldn't treat for mites or lice unless I actually saw one, or very clear evidence.

 

[Chris09]

Here is some information on mites
There are two major types of mites found on the body of poultry. They are the Northern Fowl Mite (or in tropical environments, the Tropical Fowl Mite) and the Chicken Mite (or Red Roost Mite).

The Northern Fowl Mite is the most common external parasite in poultry, especially in cool weather climates. It sucks blood from all different types of fowl and can live in the temperate regions of the world. As compared to the Chicken Mite, the Northern Fowl Mite primarily remains on the host for its entire life cycle. These mites can live off the host bird for 2 to 3 weeks. These mites are small and black or brown in color, have 8 legs, and are commonly spread through bird-to-bird contact. The Tropical Fowl Mite is comparable to the Northern Fowl Mite but lives in the tropical regions.

The Chicken Mite is a nocturnal mite that is primarily a warm weather pest. These mites suck the blood from the birds at night and then hide in the cracks and crevices of the houses during the day. Chicken Mites are dark brown or black, much like the Northern Fowl Mite.

The life cycle of mites can be as little as 10 days, which allows for a quick turnover and heavy infestations. Mites can be transferred between flocks by crates, clothing, and wild birds. Mites are capable of living in the environment and off the host bird for a period of time. Diagnoses of mite infestations are similar to that of lice; however since mites can live off the bird and some are nocturnal, inspect birds and housing facilities at night especially if you suspect that the Chicken Mite is the cause of the infestation. Observable signs may include darkening of the feathers on white feathered birds due to mite feces; scabbing of the skin near the vent; mite eggs on the fluff feathers and along the feather shaft, or congregations of mites around the vent, ventral abdomen, tail, or throat. Since mites congregate around the ventral region, they can also reduce a rooster’s ability of successful matings

Flocks infested with lice or mites show similar general symptoms. Birds will have decreased egg production; decreased weight gain; decreased carcass-grading quality; increased disease susceptibility; and decreased food intake. If any of these generalized symptoms are observed, a visual evaluation is recommended. Inspect birds around the ventral region for signs of lice or mites since infestations usually start in this area of the bird.

Sanitation and cleanliness are the keys to lice and mite control. Sanitation includes cleaning and disinfecting housing facilities and equipment between flocks. Moreover, reducing people traffic through housing facilities is recommended. Eliminating the contact between flocks and wild birds can reduce the potential transfer of external parasites. Chemical control can include the use of carbaryl (Sevin Dust). Treat the walls, floors, roosts, nest boxes, and the birds simultaneously. When dusting an entire house, be careful to avoid feed contamination. One treatment method for small flocks or individual birds is the use of a dusting bath with Sevin Dust. Place the bird into a garbage bag containing the medicated powder with the birds’ head out and rotate/shake the bag to completely cover the bird with powder. Be sure not to inhale the medicated powder during treatments. The use of a facial mask is recommended to prevent inhaling this medicated powder. Because the life cycle of lice and mites is. approximately 2 weeks, treatments should be repeated every 2 weeks as needed. Carefully read all labels prior to treatment to make sure withdrawal times are followed for food-producing poultry. Severe lice or mite infestations can be treated initially with a kitten strength dose of a pyrethrin-based medicated spray on the birds to reduce the initial numbers. If problems persist, contact a veterinarian for treatment with such medications as Ivomec. Prevention is the best method of treatment. For poultry used in exhibition or for new poultry entering the flock, a minimum quarantine period of 2 weeks is recommended. During this time birds should be physically examined and treated if necessary.

Sources:
ultimatefowl . com / wiki / index . php ? title = Poultry _ Mites
There sources is OSU Education.

Chris