Modern Rustic Chicken Coop Design

I started working on the Chicken Run Roof. I decided I would try to keep with the original design and go with a traditional roof vs the shed roof. The framing is mostly done with the exception of adding some horizontal supports to create a triangle support system for the individual rafters. I also have the door installed and have most of the hardware mesh in place.
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I finally got most of the run wrapped up. I installed the metal roofing panels and facia boards. i originally intended for the cedar to age and the metal roof to fade and add some light surface rust to contribute to more of an "older / rustic look". After using the corrugated metal I believe it is to light to allow it to surface rust and will likely need to coat it with something to prolong the oxidization from occurring even though it is galvanized. I added some of the same text in the blue print above the door as well. I just have a few more trim pieces and maybe some exterior lights but for the most part the coop is mostly complete.
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A few thoughts on the construction for those looking to start there own coop. Whatever price you have estimated for the project cost DOUBLE it. Then when you get to the store you will only be half as shocked when the cost is slightly more after doubling your estimate. I thought not using a whole lot of treated lumber would be nice because I wouldn't have to deal with warped and twisted treated boards. It seems you can't really escape the warping. After priming and painting the lumber that was hand picked for straightness a lot of the boards warped after being painted. Assembling the coop completely before priming and painting may have been faster at the time I was more concerned with completely coating non treated lumber for best protection. Overall this project was definitely a blast and would do it again.
 
A few thoughts on the construction for those looking to start there own coop. Whatever price you have estimated for the project cost DOUBLE it. Then when you get to the store you will only be half as shocked when the cost is slightly more after doubling your estimate. I thought not using a whole lot of treated lumber would be nice because I wouldn't have to deal with warped and twisted treated boards. It seems you can't really escape the warping. After priming and painting the lumber that was hand picked for straightness a lot of the boards warped after being painted. Assembling the coop completely before priming and painting may have been faster at the time I was more concerned with completely coating non treated lumber for best protection. Overall this project was definitely a blast and would do it again.

If your buying from a box store always buy what you can screw together fairly quickly. Even kiln dried 2x4 will bow and twist fairly fast. The treated lumber is a joke. nail or screw it together within days or it will move on you fast. At least that has been my experience.
Scott
 
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I will definitely keep that in mind. How anything is made from treated lumber is a miracle. I cringe every time I have to use it. I'm surprised they don't have a drip pan under neath it when its on the shelves. For the people that use nails you have my respect. I'm by no means a carpenter but dealing with twisted wood and nails is enough to blow a fuse. Any time I have the opportunity to use construction grade screws I don't hesitate.
 
I will definitely keep that in mind. How anything is made from treated lumber is a miracle. I cringe every time I have to use it. I'm surprised they don't have a drip pan under neath it when its on the shelves. For the people that use nails you have my respect. I'm by no means a carpenter but dealing with twisted wood and nails is enough to blow a fuse. Any time I have the opportunity to use construction grade screws I don't hesitate.
+1 for screws. Nails will over time back themselves out unless you used the galv. spiral nails. I buy screws by the bucket and have 3 different sizes sitting around all the time. I also have several boxes of timber loc. those are great for using raw lumber or in various high load areas. I used them to hold walls to the floor and to each other. in a 8' wall I use 3 and then when I want to move it 3 screws and she is loose from the floor. I was turned on to those by some amish builders years ago and it is what I use to build cedar log beds. 10" ones to hold spindle work to log corners.

Scott
 
Our silkie coop base is all treated ground contact. It was screwed and assembled in one day. It would have been painted with blackjack 57 that day too but the wind was blowing leaves all around and the hens we all checking the new dance stage out. We opted to wait till some walls are up to keep the hens out.
Scott
 

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