Modified Stoddard Southern Coop in Central Mississippi

JagZilla

Chirping
Oct 31, 2018
20
72
79
Brandon, Mississippi
My Coop
My Coop
I picked up 4 pullets at Tractor Supply this past weekend (2 production Reds, and 2 Buckeyes), with intentions of building up to a suburban backyard flock of 12-16 laying hens in the next couple years. Although I've never owned chickens before, I've been thinking about it for a few years. In preparation, I've quietly stalked this site, and other chicken sites for about a year, finally joining the forums here a few months ago. I've also bought Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens, [URL='https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/1118982789/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1']Raising Chickens For Dummies,[URL='https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0470598964/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1'] Building Chicken Coops For Dummies, and, [URL='https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/097217706X/?tag=backy-20']Fresh-Air Poultry Houses: The Classic Guide to Open-Front Chicken Coops for Healthier Poultry.[/URL][/URL][/URL]

I've been leaning heavily toward building a small Woods style coop as described in Fresh-Air Poultry Houses: The Classic Guide to Open-Front Chicken Coops for Healthier Poultry. However, living in Central Mississippi, where we have mild Winters (lows in the 20s-40s most of the winter, and only a handful of single digit nights in the 20 years that I've lived here), and daytime Summer temps in the high 90s-low 100s with 95+% humidity, my main concern is in keeping my girls cool, rather than worrying about frostbite. The Woods Coop is better ventilated than most conventional coops, but, it was deigned for more northern climates, and may still fall short of being "Ideal", for use here in the deep, sweaty South.

In chapter 7 of the book, the author writes a couple pages regarding some coop design drawings he did for a then-prominent poultry journalist named H. Hudson Stoddard, who had recently moved to Texas. The Stoddard design is even more open and ventilated than the Woods design, and, holds a great deal of appeal to me. It's believed that Stoddard died before building one of these coops, and, I don't know if anyone has built this style coop in the 100 or so years since the author designed it. Still, I think it would be an ideal design for the type weather we have here, in Mississippi.

The original design is 10ft wide and 16ft deep. and, calls for it to be built on a concrete slab. However, in order to minimize the footprint, and to scale it to the potential size of my flock, my version would be 6ft wide, and, 10ft deep, the same as the smallest Woods coop illustrated in the book. Another variance from the original, is that I would elevate it on 4x4 posts, about 2ft above the ground, so that area underneath it acts as the main portion of the shaded outside run.

Does anyone have experience with such an open design in the South? Any ideas, or, constructive criticism anyone can give me before I go further with my planning, purchasing, and construction? I would rather avoid making expensive mistakes on this project.

For anyone unfamiliar with this unusual design, I've included a front 3/4 view (South-facing front, and East-facing side), and the rear (north-facing) view, from the book.

Thanks
Stoddard Front.jpg
Stoddard Rear.jpg
 
Instead of 6x10 I'd consider 8x8. The less expensive lumber comes in standard 8' lengths. Panels are often 4x8. Less cost, cutting, and waste this way. With that style I don't see where this would hurt air flow at all.

Not sure where your run would be but the rainwater run-off from the roof should not flow into the run. Either position the run where it's not a problem or use gutters and downspouts to carry the water away,

You mention reducing footprint but don't mention scaling down height. I would not, you need to be able to walk in there. Keep it tall.

I'm trying to figure out why you need a floor in there 2' above the concrete. I would not put one, just make sure the concrete is sloped so water runes off instead of stands. It should not take much of a slope. That way you don't have any access problems under it.

Since shade will be important to you, sunlight can come in from the side through the wire mesh. Just having something solid on top is not enough. The most heat will come from a southern or western exposure. Maybe position it so one face is facing southwest and cover that wall all the way to the ground with something solid or make a pocket on the southwest corner. It will still get great air movement under here and will cool it off a lot.

Since you are not in the frozen north I don't see a huge advantage to a southern exposure. But do not put the nests on the southern or western exposure. You don't want nests turning into ovens. That depends a bit on what your nests look like. I would not worry too much about the roosts. By the time they go to bed it should have cooled off some.
 
Instead of 6x10 I'd consider 8x8. The less expensive lumber comes in standard 8' lengths. Panels are often 4x8. Less cost, cutting, and waste this way. With that style I don't see where this would hurt air flow at all.

Not sure where your run would be but the rainwater run-off from the roof should not flow into the run. Either position the run where it's not a problem or use gutters and downspouts to carry the water away,

You mention reducing footprint but don't mention scaling down height. I would not, you need to be able to walk in there. Keep it tall.

I'm trying to figure out why you need a floor in there 2' above the concrete. I would not put one, just make sure the concrete is sloped so water runes off instead of stands. It should not take much of a slope. That way you don't have any access problems under it.

Since shade will be important to you, sunlight can come in from the side through the wire mesh. Just having something solid on top is not enough. The most heat will come from a southern or western exposure. Maybe position it so one face is facing southwest and cover that wall all the way to the ground with something solid or make a pocket on the southwest corner. It will still get great air movement under here and will cool it off a lot.

Since you are not in the frozen north I don't see a huge advantage to a southern exposure. But do not put the nests on the southern or western exposure. You don't want nests turning into ovens. That depends a bit on what your nests look like. I would not worry too much about the roosts. By the time they go to bed it should have cooled off some.

Thanks for your reply. You brought up some good points. Some I've addressed in my planning, others I haven't.

I'm planning to keep the scale the same as those of the smallest described Woods Coop. The scale of this style coop seems to be a key design factor as far as airflow through the coop, and keeping the rain out via an air cushion effect. At least that's the way it works with the Woods style coops. The more open air nature of the Stoddard Coop may negate any effect scale & proportion may play in airflow and dryness inside the coop. I've included a drawing from the book, which details those measurements. I'll still be able to get inside the coop, but, I won't be able to stand completely upright at the front and back.

Similarly, the southern-facing arrangement seems to be a common design theme with the author, even for this style coop, which he designed for use in Texas. The coop will back up to a privacy fence along the northern edge of my yard, and will be situated under a large Oak tree, with several other large Oaks further south in my yard. I believe that trees, combined with the low front section roof will keep out the majority of the direct-sun related heat. The western sun is another matter. It's blistering hot until it sets in the Summer. I hope to address that with a shade/screen on the west side, that will block the sun while allowing for airflow. I've included a Google Earth view of my property, with the yellow box representing roughly where the coop will be.

I'm still working on where I'll put the run. Your comment about rain runoff is something I hadn't thought about. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

I probably should have clarified my statement about raising the coop. There will be no concrete slab under the coop. Just bare ground to serve as the majority of the run. The author suggested the slab in his original design, but, I see no need for he added expense, and I prefer to use the area under the coop as additional outdoor space for the girls to stretch their legs.

Again, thanks for your insights. You've given me a few things to think about, and work out, before I start spending money.
Small Woods Coop.jpg
Home.jpg
 
The challenge as I see it ... is if you have it up on basically 2' high posts ... how are you gonna fetch a chicken under there that don't want to be fetched? Or decides that is a better place to lay eggs ... either make it taller/higher, so you can get under it ... or skip the "using the coop for a covered run" idea, and just build the coop on the ground, with either a concrete or block "footing" around the perimeter to keep the walls up off the ground a few inches ... chickens like dirt floors!

The Woods design relies on the long narrow design for the "air cushion" effect ... the Stoddard is open mesh, and won't provide a "air cushion" ... I'd suggest large top hinged "covers" (like sideways solid shudders) for the meshed sides, at a minumum on South & West sides, that when open, provide not only air movement, but shade ... and keeps the rain out ... in "winter" you could close them ...

Scaled down or not ... I'd make it so I could walk anywhere inside ...
 
The challenge as I see it ... is if you have it up on basically 2' high posts ... how are you gonna fetch a chicken under there that don't want to be fetched? Or decides that is a better place to lay eggs ... either make it taller/higher, so you can get under it ... or skip the "using the coop for a covered run" idea, and just build the coop on the ground, with either a concrete or block "footing" around the perimeter to keep the walls up off the ground a few inches ... chickens like dirt floors!

The Woods design relies on the long narrow design for the "air cushion" effect ... the Stoddard is open mesh, and won't provide a "air cushion" ... I'd suggest large top hinged "covers" (like sideways solid shudders) for the meshed sides, at a minumum on South & West sides, that when open, provide not only air movement, but shade ... and keeps the rain out ... in "winter" you could close them ...

Scaled down or not ... I'd make it so I could walk anywhere inside ...
Great suggestions. I particularly like the top-hinged shutters. The 2ft elevation isn't set in stone, just a number off the top of my head. I can see where higher would be better. Thanks for the great input.
 
I built a raised coop and they are just not practical at all. Difficult to maintain and clean and did I mention crawling under to clean... every time I crawl inside to do something I wish I had found this place before finding a poor coop design online. I'll never build a raised coop again, walk in is the way to go.

JT
 
You can have a raised walk-in coop ;) just need some steps.

And ... the more steps ... means crawling on your knees vs your belly under it ... ;) Of course elevated 7' high ... most people could walk under it! ;)

------------------------------

To the OP ... you have plenty of trees on your property for shade ... I'm not sure of the lay of the land ... but, if the ground does not get soggy/muddy ... I'd just build a bigger run ... chickens are not scared of the rain.

I also would just skip the more complicated monitor window design ... and build a simple single angled shed the size you want, leave the rafters open, but covered with hardware cloth ... and plan on the roof having a 2'-3' over hang, put 1-2 top hinged open able window(s) on each side ... covered with hardware cloth ...

Being 6'1" tall myself ... I don't like bumping my head ... the woods design creates lots of head bumping opportunities ...

With your proposed 6'X10' size ... if you put your door on a 10' side ... it would only need to be 7'-8' high, with the back wall 6'-7' tall ... plenty of height then ...

If your ground is not a swamp ... you could have the ground as a floor, and utilize "deep liter" method of flooring, with just a short step over the threshold of concrete to hold the wood sides up off the ground.
 
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Mornin’ JT! My coop is elevated by just over a foot, but there’s no access for critters (including two-legged ones). We fenced it all off. The reason for the elevation is to keep it level and dry. Mine’s built at the edge of the woods where the yard drops off into the bottom end of the holler. I’ve got a single step up, so not a problem for me yet. In the winter, we discovered that if we pile bales of straw around the outside, it stays nice and warm. It’d be nice to have it on the level ground, but there’s not a single area on this part of the property that’s level! :D
 
Hmmmm. I appreciate all the good advice...especially before I have committed time and money toward something that wouldn't be the best solution for my circumstances.

After hearing from those of you who are far more experienced, it seems that I might need to rethink things. I need to find a well-ventilated walk-in design (maybe something with just a dirt floor) for 12-16 hens that will stay cool during our hot, humid Mississippi Summers, be comfortable for the girls during our mostly mild winters, and, that will be convenient for my wife and I to work in & around.
 
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