movable insulated coop - help with selection

driving with something like the picture above even on a small stretch of (public) road.

I do not want to move it around all the time, it should just be movable if I have to move to another location for whatever reason.

That isn't designed to be driven on the highway. It's simply designed to be moved around easily, say pull it on a trailer to drive it to another location.
 
That isn't designed to be driven on the highway. It's simply designed to be moved around easily, say pull it on a trailer to drive it to another location.
Yes, I am aware. Nevertheless, I do not have a big property, so if I drive it to another location I have to use public roads.
 
Until you said you didn't want wheels on it all the time, I'd have suggested buying a stake side 4x8 or 5x10 aluminum trailer kit, and using that as the base of your coop. Bolt on your 2x4x8's on the side, floor it, attach light weight walls to your 2x4s, use 2x2" on the inside of the corners, and roof it - then almost any similarly sized shed/coop design would work for the internal layout.

Aluminum for the weather (no rust concerns) and the lighter weight, you would be able to move it easily with a vehicle no larger than a typical 4 door sedan - no truck required. (I have a 4x8 aluminum myself, and after accounting for trailer weight, I can tow about 600# with it. Use it for building supplies and eventually transporting goats.
 
If we are talking about aluminium trailers -- would a used refrigerated trailer with an added active ventilation be an option? That would be already insulated, and comparatively cheap used.

I know, that has wheels, but that idea just came up...
 
You don't really need 'that much' yard space for a chicken tractor, why does it have to be moved down the road? I don't know how that will be possible while still leaving the bottom open (the purpose of a chicken tractor). It sounds like you just want to build a coop on a trailer you can haul around?
 
Because the "yard" where the chicken would be does not belong to me. I just have the temporary (min 1 year, most proabably 5-10years) permission to use it.

So if the owner wants to use the property for something else I need to move. But it is not a daily or even yearly occurence.
 
Because the "yard" where the chicken would be does not belong to me. I just have the temporary (min 1 year, most proabably 5-10years) permission to use it.
So if the owner wants to use the property for something else I need to move. But it is not a daily or even yearly occurence.
Many have built a coop on a trailer frame.

If we are talking about aluminium trailers -- would a used refrigerated trailer with an added active ventilation be an option? That would be already insulated, and comparatively cheap used.
I know, that has wheels, but that idea just came up...
Problem with that is no roof overhangs to protect the ventilation that would need to be cut it.
You don't need insulation with lows of -15°C ( 5°F).
 
You don't need insulation with lows of -15°C ( 5°F).

No, but as mentioned in the OP I do not need temperature, but sound-insulation. But I guess thats two birds with one stone, even if I only wanted the one bird ;)
 
A sound deadening plywood is made, dark gray to black in color. I don't have any experience with it, can't say how well it works, or how well it resists the elements. It's frequently used in construction of multi-family housing. After that, your choices and sound baffling or deadening are usually either an open cell egg crate shaped foam type substance, which has lots of problems with moisture absorption, mold growth, deterioration in UV light, and of course has no chicken resistance whatsoever, for the harder foam like materials made from some crystalline substance like you see in sound rooms and some auditoriums. It has problems of its own, particularly in its brittleness. How much sound deadening do you truly need???
 

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