Moving Chicks to the Coop

[k9grammy]

I'm feeding the Purina medicated starter. Should I get some grit besides?

 

[A_Fowl_Guy]

I'm feeding the Purina medicated starter. Should I get some grit besides?

If your feeding sprouts I would.

 

[k9grammy]

Okay, thanks. I'll get some today. Do I just put it out for them free choice?

 

[A_Fowl_Guy]

Yep and they’ll eat what they need.

 

[21hens-incharge]

They are a bit to young for treats just yet.
they need all the nutrition they can get from the starter feed.
If giving treats then YES they need chick sized grit.

Is the shed dark with the door closed?

If so you may need more light than the heat lamp alone so they know it is time to be up and eating.

 

[k9grammy]

Yes, with the door closed it will be a bit dark, but I am an early riser (usually up by 5), so I can go out and open the door if need be. One reason I had wanted to leave at least one door open. It faces the East, so the sun comes pouring in first thing.

I'm off to the feed store and I'll get some grit for them.
Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[21hens-incharge]

Yes, with the door closed it will be a bit dark, but I am an early riser (usually up by 5), so I can go out and open the door if need be. One reason I had wanted to leave at least one door open. It faces the East, so the sun comes pouring in first thing.

I'm off to the feed store and I'll get some grit for them.
Thanks for all the help everyone.

It would be a good idea to make a screen door for the side you will be opening up.
Those babies will be clearing a 4' barrier before you know it.
besides them getting out you won't want other things getting in.

 

[woodmort]

I'm feeding the Purina medicated starter. Should I get some grit besides?

At 3 weeks, yes. Just sprinkle chick grit on their feed much like you would salt your food. I wouldn't want to coop them without it because you never know what they're going to find to eat once they're free. As soon as you allow them outside they will find "grit" for themselves.

As far as moving them, I just use any fairly large sized cardboard box and take as many as I can comfortably fit in at a time. Just make sure it closes so they don't hop or fly out.

As for warmth--at 4 weeks they are probably fairly well feathered out. I've housed slightly older chicks at that stage with just a 100w bulb in a trouble light hanging about a foot off the floor. When it's cool they get under it otherwise they ignore the extra heat. Works as long as the temperatures are above 40 or so.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I've seen two week old chicks fly 2 feet vertical and 3 feet horizontal when Mama told them to go to the roosts. I would not trust a 4 feet high board to keep them in. If you make a screen door make it out of hardware cloth so it is more predator resistant than window screen.

I suggest you try turning off the heat in that room while you are around to see how they react. You may be surprised at how well they can handle those temperatures today. Using a heat plate your brooder should be big enough for them to spend a lot of time in those cooler temperatures anyway which is helping get them acclimated. Turning the heat off so you can observe is more for your benefit than the chicks, that way you see for yourself how well they can handle it. I trust my observation of the chicks much more than anything I read on here, even if I'm the one writing it. If yours are under three weeks it may be a bit early but there is one way to find out.

I also move my chicks to my brooder in the coop straight from the incubator or post office, even if the outside temperature is below freezing. One end of the brooder stays toasty even if there is ice in the far end of the brooder. I find that chicks just hatched do a great job of self-regulating heat if given good options. As long as one place is warm enough in the coldest conditions and a spot is cool enough in the warmest conditions they do great.

One huge problem for me in brooding outside is the temperature swings. I've seen the outside temperature go from below freezing to in the 70's Fahrenheit within a 36 hour span. However you provide that warm spot needs to accommodate that. I use a well-secure heat lamp that keeps one end toasty but the brooder is big enough and well-enough ventilated that the far end can really cool off. In winter, I keep my water in the heated area so it doesn't freeze.

I don't know how you are providing ventilation or natural light in that plastic shed. I like ventilation up high in winter. That way any breezes pass over their heads. Breezes hitting more mature chickens in the hot summer is great but in winter a cold breeze hitting them is not so good. My personal preference is to cut out openings under overhangs and cover those with hardware cloth against predators. That lets air in and helps keep rain out. But many plastic sheds don't have overhang.

That high ventilation can let in a lot of light but probably not enough. In hotter weather I like a window that you can open for added ventilation but can be closed in winter. If it is really hot my preference is on a side, usually north exposure, that lets in light but not heat. You and the chickens need enough light in there to see what you are doing but my personal preference is not too bright. I think a bit darker calms them.

 

[woodmort]

RidgeRunner--you and I are pretty much on the same page. Although around here a temperature change can be below zero to 32 in about 2 hrs.