My destiny has changed ! They moved in, pic's on on 36

You need to take a good look at this thread: ep Do you know how many people are pulling for you??? If we all lived close, you would have way more help than you need.
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Everyone is "smack on" with their suggestions. I think skids are the way to go also. because if the terrain between house and large run out in back is bumpy at all, small wheels (lets say, under 15") would fall into every "gopher" sized hole and beat this coup into pieces. Not good.

The last picture in your post 99 is where I'm worried about the roof support. When you put your rafters up you are going to find, the straight line that IS the peak (or ridge rafter) is not going to match the support under it (at this time). this pic includes some wheel so I'm sure it's the coop you intend to move. Putting skids under this would strengthen it enough to pull. Make it a three point pull (both sides and the center, equally)

Then, as far as "coupling up" goes, maybe pulling along side at both locations is possible? sort of like a jet at an airport. And then a "jetway" to hook them together? That could be a simple hoop sort of thing.
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Quote: "the journey of a thousand miles, begins with a single step" ... Confucius
AND YOU are but a few steps from the destination. Look at what you've already done. Miraculous!!
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perchie.girl :

OK this is what I did last night

https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/72852_8_x_8_coop_base_with_skids.jpg

I am showing 2 x 6 wood for the vertical pieces and 4 x 6 wood for the skid structure. The rest of the structure can be 2 x 4. The plywood is shown set at 24 inches above the ground. Since you will be pulling straight on forward and back and not trying to turn corners I didnt put cross support pieces It may need it but once the plywood is on the structure providing you use screws to put it on you should not need it. Plywood is incredibly strong in shear even the thin stuff.

The bevel on the foot is two inches up and six inches back

I am not a shed designer so I am sure there will be other excellent suggestions and changes from the others.

I hope this helps.

Oh honey it helps a lot, I don't know how to thank you
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. I really appriciate it. I went out this morning looking around and searching for pre-built ones, no luck ! I guess I have no other choice but to build one of my own. The trick is the bottom of the coop. It's been haunting me, I keep dreaming about it lol. I will figure it out. Thank you sooo much Perchie Girl
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Oh I am so blessed to have you guys
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I have no doubt if you guys lived close to me, I wouldn't have any problems with this project. I am so close to finishing that big run but the small run is just the way I left it on Tuesday. Since I'm undecisive, or sorta confused on what my next step should be, I stopped working on it for now.
I am extremely happy and honored to have you guys, thank you all.
 
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Oh honey it helps a lot, I don't know how to thank you
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. I really appriciate it. I went out this morning looking around and searching for pre-built ones, no luck ! I guess I have no other choice but to build one of my own. The trick is the bottom of the coop. It's been haunting me, I keep dreaming about it lol. I will figure it out. Thank you sooo much Perchie Girl
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What you may do is go to a shed place and just ask them to build you the base. Those big pieces of wood are pretty heavy. And remember the whole structure will be eight foot high from the ground so the actually coop sitting 24 inches from the ground inside will be 6 feet tall inside. You dont want your center of gravity to get too high or a good wind could tip it over.
 
I had read through the whole thread just out of curiosity. I'm a newb here but not new to construction.

The sketch/cad drawing on the other page is a good example.
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Only suggestion for the skids is to put the cross piece behind the legs so you don't rip it out when towing back and forth if it snags up on something.

You don't want rubber tires on it, they will go flat and then you'll have to get out there and deal with that when there's 2 or 3 feet of snow on the ground. Plus the design I see you are intending on will not be steerable etc. I'll go ahead and stop right there.

I am with everyone else here, what you're doing is inspirational to everyone here. Can't help you with the communication issues but I can help with construction ideas. I'm on the other coast from you or I would stop by and help you get it done but what fun would that be. You'll be able to say you did this yourself and you will be very proud of it as you should.

This is pretty cool.
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10x's the size my cluckers are getting and they can't have a run that is not covered, too many predators.


WOW!

If you have to make the skids, show whomever what you want and have them cut the ends for you. Be sure they know what you intend to do with it so they don't do it wrong.

Most newbs either under construct or WAY OVER construct, I typically over build stuff and then it's too heavy to move without a fork lift or crane.
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Fasten some kind of eyelet on the coop as low as possible that you tie to, or use a nice tow strap from an auto parts store. But skids is the way to go if you want to move it when there is snow on the ground or just really muddy.

Hang in there, you will finish this project and don't worry about if it's perfect, just get it done. That is how most jobs go anyways, you can fix the things you didn't like later.

One more person pulling for you!
 
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First, welcome to BYC
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I appriciate you taking the time to read and giving me some imput. So far whomever I talk to (contractors) to help me out, non of them showed up. I have asked the people I bought the wheels from and also homedepot lumber workers and quiet frankly, no one had any clue as to what I was talking about lol. The coop will only be moved once a year on a straight line. Most likely before snow, around November or December depending upon the weather. I;ve made 3x4 7ft high chicken coop last summer and not knowing, I probably used the heaviest materials to build it, but luckily, I build it on the site so it wasn't a hassle moving it.

I came upon this website http://www.horizonstructures.com/8x8_coop.asp as he's pulling away a big, tall and heavy coop/shed and thought why can't I do something like that with almost half of it's height. I would like to get the coop off the ground, depending what I use to make it portable and 4ft of the plywood then the roof height. I don't want it to exceed 6-6 1/2 ft.
I will finish the small run first and put the roof on and see where that leads me. I'm still trying to recover from the flu. I thank you very much, and will keep everyone posted on the progress.
Thank you
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as staring at the small run 8x8 pic, I got an idea, since I made a-framed roof on that run and the top will be closed, what if I make them a house on top of that run and make additional 4x8 portable run like this https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=14375, would that be enough for them ? I realize the 8x8 portable coop will be a real challenge and since I'm not a carpenter or a contractor. That would give them more livable space and less hassle trying to move that big of a coop. I have to stare at that run more to come up with building ideas
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on that 8x8 run, I have to figure out the doors it will have for easy cleaning if I close the top to make a coop. Roof coop, ehehe. and possibly make the roof a little higher.
 
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Thanks Farmer mitch,
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I was going off some Stone Boat designs that I have seen for Conditioning Draft Horses. These stone boats are designed to carry up to 2 thousand pounds. On a stone boat the cross piece is in front and the eye bolt through the point where the cross piece connects with the skids. Then a piece of chain goes between the eyes which then can be fastened to the point of pull.

That being said Stone boats usually have a heavy platform attached across the whole thing. Usually planks with heavy plywood over the top. So I was scratching my head as to how to attach the leggs for the coop. Thanks again. The eyes can be put in the same spot just not attached to the cross piece.
 
Simpson makes post bases, or one could use heavy "L" shaped iron. Get it bent at a welding/fabricating shop. Have them made with gussets and then install them in two directions at each corner. Tell everyone (even with pictures)what you are trying to do so they will have a better idea.
I'm thinking we want to take the "sway" out of this structure, that can even be done with small cable in an "X" fashion on each side.
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Come on Farmer Mitch,
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Steel would be too expensive and heavy. It would work for a good long time and all but cost is too high and I can't see this fine lady draggin a 200lb. piece of steel across the yard to the coop.
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The first thing I would recommend ( IF I were asked) would be to make yourself some cayenne tea, as spicey as you can stand it. You will feel better in 24 hours or less. Hot water, lemon juice, honey and cayenne. There may be a recipe but it's not hard, just add stuff til you like it, but not like it too much, it needs to be spicey.



While watching the video of them pulling that coop, my dog tooted and it made it all seem that much more real, like I was there......
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The wheels they had on it looked like 12 or 13 inch trailer wheels. For the coop, just copy the designs used to build your house, it's all the same.

the lighter the materials you can use the better. Looks like you could use one more rafter across the center, get rid of those pieces going up (vertical) and you say it's 8x8? If so your 8ft long piece of plywood will span the top. and give you lateral support. When you put the rib pieces in use a temporary 2x4 to hold them where you want them. (level/plumb) I would use 1/4" to keep it light. If you build it as light as you can but still sturdy you will thank yourself later.

I am a little unclear of what you want to accomplish.

I'm trying to think of what is best for the roof.
 

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