My Hoop Coop

[TJAnonymous]

Chickens need air movement & exchange (circulation & ventilation) as well as shelter from the wind ,rain and snow. Providing one and not the other can be deadly.That black tarps going to absorb heat and cause them to overheat on sunny days.Set a temperature gauge on the wall and get an app that sends notifications to your phone so you'll know how high it goes.

They are not inside the coop during the day except to lay an egg or two. The coop was built inside a 25 ft x 25 ft fenced run covered with netting. The ducks stay outside in the run all day long when the automatic door opens at 7 AM. The chickens go in and out at their leisure between this coop and other coops/sheds they have access to until its time to bed down at dusk. I've been inside the coop at various times of the day, including mid afternoon on Wednesday when it was sunny and 62 degrees outside. It is not hot or stuffy inside the coop. It's actually quite comfortable.

 

[TJAnonymous]

You might get by with less ventilation in the winter than summer but the typical coop needs 1 sq foot per chicken if this helps.

That's why I designed the tarp to roll up the sides in summer so I can make the ventilation adjustable.

Even now during winter, there's plenty of ventilation. It is not drafty at all but there's ample air movement.

 

[McChooky]

That's why I designed the tarp to roll up the sides in summer so I can make the ventilation adjustable.

Even now during winter, there's plenty of ventilation. It is not drafty at all but there's ample air movement.

Ventilation should be above their heads not below the roost.The sides rolling up allows fresh air but heat and ammonia will still rise to the top and can't escape.

 

[TJAnonymous]

Ventilation should be above their heads not below the roost.The sides rolling up allows fresh air but heat and ammonia will still rise to the top and can't escape.

There is ventilation above their heads. The ventilation from the bottom is intended to create a draw. It pulls cooler air from the ground and pushes air upward and out the top. Like a chimney. It can also allow a cross breeze which is important for my ducks in the summer.

You may think I'm totally clueless but I have a degree in architecture. I know how important ventilation is to a structure AND my birds. This isn't my first, second, or even third coop... I've built a lot of coops although this is my first with a cattle panel.

 

[McChooky]

There is ventilation above their heads. The ventilation from the bottom is intended to create a draw. It pulls cooler air from the ground and pushes air upward and out the top. Like a chimney. It can also allow a cross breeze which is important for my ducks in the summer.

You may think I'm totally clueless but I have a degree in architecture. I know how important ventilation is to a structure AND my birds. This isn't my first, second, or even third coop... I've built a lot of coops although this is my first with a cattle panel.

My input was is only a suggestion. Keeping ducks on the floor explains why you're venting the coop from the floor upward.

 

[Raptor Chicken]

There is ventilation above their heads. The ventilation from the bottom is intended to create a draw. It pulls cooler air from the ground and pushes air upward and out the top. Like a chimney. It can also allow a cross breeze which is important for my ducks in the summer.

You may think I'm totally clueless but I have a degree in architecture. I know how important ventilation is to a structure AND my birds. This isn't my first, second, or even third coop... I've built a lot of coops although this is my first with a cattle panel.

I'm just going to be the one to say it. Architectures may have degrees but in my decades of building in the field more often than not they are ignorant in the real world application of processes.

As another poster said, I love your simplistic build but any way you cut it the ventilation is NOT adequate. Now before you reiterate how you can roll up the sides I would suggest you educate yourself on the difference between ventilation and "a breeze" through the coop. Also look up drafts in a coop.

I hope everything works out well on your coop and wish you and your chickens nothing but the best.

Any more questions feel free to ask...

 

[McChooky]

The easiest way to add vents is to drill holes on the back wall using a hole saw.

 

[Ponypoor]

My DH and I built a hoop coop last weekend. Sharing pictures from the build for those who might want to do something similar..

Specifications and requirements -

Inside Sq footage - 6 ft x 8 ft
Poop boards
Adjustable ventilation
Automatic chicken door

Here's final product (inside and front) :

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I started this project by painting and/or watersealing all the wood FIRST. That took me a couple of days.

Next, I laid out the bottom frame in the general area. I used 2x6x8s for the bottom frame. I doubled up the 2x6s along the front and back which will support the end cap walls. Because I wanted my inner dimensions to be 6 ft x 8 ft, this meant I didn't need to cut any of boards and I could utilize the extra space on the front and back end caps to create an overhang.
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Next we laid down our cattle panels side by side. Cattle panels are 16 ft x 50 in. Which means they will have a 4" overlap in the center if you want to attach them to an 8 ft long board. To make this easier, we used zip ties to hold the overlapping pieces together and give both panels some stability so you can handle it as one piece instead of 2 separate pieces. Once it was zip-tied, we used conduit straps to attach the cattle panels to one length of the 2x6x8 side wall. Once this is attached along one side, it will be very easy to push the cattle panels up in the center and adhere the remaining side with conduit straps.
Conduit strap -
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We used this chart to estimate a center height for our hoop coop. You'll need this height for planning out your end cap walls.
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Beginning to build the front end back end cap walls. We built in "horizontal" supports into our wall frame to provide a place to nail in and secure the poop boards.
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Once the poop boards were installed, we started to cover the frame. We used 4x8 (painted) particle board sheets. To help line up the bottom correctly, we sandwiched (2) 2x4x8s together and laid at the end edges between the 2x6 walls (the sides that the cattle panels are attached to). We used these 2x4s to support the weight of the 4x8 sheet while it is held along the length of the end cap. This allows you to use a marker and trace where the cattle panel touches the 4x8 sheet. This traces helps you identify the arc you need to cut in the panel to make it fit perfectly. After your sheet is cut, simply push the 2x4 supports against the end cap wall and use it to support your sheet while you trace out any openings such as the door, window, etc. We followed this process for the front and back end cap walls.
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Next we wrapped the cattle panels with hardware cloth. We used zip ties (again) to generally secure the hardcloth in place. Next week used chicken wire as an apron around the bottom along the ground to discourage predators from digging. We slipped the apron wire underneath the hardware cloth and then secured BOTH together with screws and washers. Along the end cap sides, we used cut the hardware cloth, folded it over to the outside frame and secured it with staples.
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Afterwards, we pulled a heavy duty tarp over the hoop coop. Since it was bigger than we needed, we carefully folded the excess underneath so it wouldn't stick out. On the west side where rain & wind predominantly approach, we secured the tarp to the frame with washers & screws through the metal grommets on the tarp.
View attachment 3327018

We used polyester rope at 18" intervals over the top of the hoop to secure the tarp in place. One the 2nd side, we slightly drilled in the screws & washers but left enough room to allow us to loop the rope and tighten it down before then tightening down the screws & washers the rest of the way. Here's the result.
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We had severe storms just a few days later. The tarp never budged and the coop stayed warm & dry. In the summer when we get triple digits and high humidity, I can easily roll up one or both sides of the tarp to allow a breeze/cross-breeze. This capability was one of the most important reasons why I went with this type of design.

Well done! Great job!

 

[Ponypoor]

I'm just going to be the one to say it. Architectures may have degrees but in my decades of building in the field more often than not they are ignorant in the real world application of processes.

As another poster said, I love your simplistic build but any way you cut it the ventilation is NOT adequate. Now before you reiterate how you can roll up the sides I would suggest you educate yourself on the difference between ventilation and "a breeze" through the coop. Also look up drafts in a coop.

I hope everything works out well on your coop and wish you and your chickens nothing but the best.

Any more questions feel free to ask...

Open the door

Simple solution!

That’s what I do

 

[Ponypoor]

They are not inside the coop during the day except to lay an egg or two. The coop was built inside a 25 ft x 25 ft fenced run covered with netting. The ducks stay outside in the run all day long when the automatic door opens at 7 AM. The chickens go in and out at their leisure between this coop and other coops/sheds they have access to until its time to bed down at dusk. I've been inside the coop at various times of the day, including mid afternoon on Wednesday when it was sunny and 62 degrees outside. It is not hot or stuffy inside the coop. It's actually quite comfortable.

I love your build - it’s very well done and I will take some of your ideas and apply it to my outdoor run (we get horrible miserable winter weather and I want to cover the run for winter).