My New BLUE Coop and Run Design Finally Finished (9 Long weekends LOL)

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC.

Your coop looks well-constructed. You obviously know what you're doing when it comes to DIY.

I have to agree about the ventilation though. Each chicken needs 1 square foot of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation -- best located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on their roost.

Here's my article on it: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

 

[RubelliteRose]

Welcome to BYC and the wonderful world of chickens

Beautiful coop! Your color choice is awesome! This is my coop

With regards to ventilation, 3killerBs has a great article on coop ventilation. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/
In PA, you need to think not only about removing hot air in the summer, but also moisture in the winter. As chickens sleep, their breath creates condensation which can lead to frostbite. Unfortunately, heating the coop is not a good solution because the stress of moving from a warm space at night to the cold outdoors during the day is not healthy either.
I would also consider the suggestions to cover your outlet and wires. While my dog and cat eventually grew up and learned not to touch lamp cord etc., chickens are forever toddlers and everything must remain baby proofed. Mine are actually worse as adults as they are more curious about everything
Please don't take all of the suggestions as criticism. Everyone on BYC loves chickens and wants what is best for them. We have had our flock for 2 1/2 years and are still constantly improving our setup. I don't think anyone is ever quite "done" with their coop and run!

Edit: Just saw that 3killerBs posted right before me

 

[aart]

The large window will need to be protected from snow and wind come winter.

in Eastern PA

Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[Folly's place]

About the wiring: ours is all in conduit, you can use the plastic tubes, metal tubes, or easiest is the cable that comes in flexible metal tubing. Also GFI protection, at least, and covers as used outdoors for each outlet. We had a licensed electrician do ours, including burying the power line to the coop, so all is up to code, after our insurance company did an inspection. Having it covered by insurance, and safe as possible, mattered to us.
And heat lamps, we always triple attach them! And safest are the ones with a cover over the open end so the whole bulb can't fall out.
We only use a heat lamp, or a brooder plate, for the youngsters until they are feathered out.
Mary

 

[Folly's place]

Outbuildings of any sort are more likely to burn down, mostly because of inadequate wiring issues, given what happens out there. Chickens pecking, mice or bigger rodents, shorts from failed equipment, never mind lightning strikes or trees falling.
When critters are trapped inside, it's ugly!
Mary

 

[Bladester]

Could you take some pictures of the vents you are referring to?

I don't mean to come off obtuse but windows/doors are not ventilation.

Hi No worries. I'll eventually take a photo or two because I need to jump into the coop to take the photos and I am not as young anymore. Cheers!

 

[Bladester]

Welcome!
It still could use some modifications. I agree about the ventilation. Consider a big hardware cloth covered window on the run side of the coop. your roofed run will protect it all year. In winter, add sheet vinyl or panels to the windward sides or the run, leaving the top foot or so open for ventilation.
I'm concerned about the way the hardware cloth is attached to the framing, it's not secure enough. And do you have a dig proof skirt at ground level?
It's not possible to overbuild the coop and run when it comes to predators!
Mary

Hi. I used 1" crown staples for the HWC to secure it in place. I also have a 36" wide predator apron around the perimeter of the coop and run. I do like the addition of another HWC window on the run side of the coop. I was thinking of adding that during the construction but talked myself out of it due to time. I see what I need to do add it in the next weekend or two. Thanks and Cheers!

 

[Bladester]

I'm a little concerned about the power outlet proximity to the roosting bar.
Chicken poo is a force to be reckoned with. The outlet looks within doodoo range.
The wires and outlet also look easy for sticky-beaks to reach.
If it were me, I would either move everything electrical up near the ceiling... OR cover the wires with that sturdy plastic strip stuff you can walk on and fit the outlet with a cover.

My first rule of chicken housing is everything you think they won't or can't do is exactly what they will do.
"He can't fly over that"...
"Surely they won't step near that nail"...
"She's too fat to fit through there"...
"There's no way they could mess with that"...

Hi All good feedback.. Thanks. I will look for a plastic cover for the outlets. Cheers!

 

[Bladester]

Is the heat lamp staying? They're a fire hazard in general, but especially when hung solely by the clamp. Clamps are known to fail. The loop above the lamp itself should be secured with a chain or metal wire to help support the clamp.

Regarding ventilation, you want at least 6 sq ft (or more) per bird that stays open 24/7. the vents under the roof (which is a great place for them for sure) provide 0.125 sq ft of ventilation each. You mentioned window vents, however I see plastic(?) covering most of the window, so those aren't providing ventilation if they're left covered.

Hi: Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I have clamped down the clamp of the heat lamp but you can't see it in the photos. I also added a zip tie to secure it as well. I stopped using it so the ladies start getting use to the cold weather. I will look to add more ventilation so this seems like the weakest part of the build so while the weather is still relatively good I will look to add a window for ventilation on the run side of the coop just under the roof of the run. Thanks. Cheers!