My puppy is my peeps new predator!

[centrarchid]

I would get pup into a daily routine where you take it off property for extended activity to wear it down a bit. Then bring dog back while on leash and walk perimeter of property multiple times. Walk to middle of property, then approach boundary before stopping. Repeat. Do this with chickens present. Get dog interested in non-chicken stimuli. Best results I have had avoids use of outright punishment. A gentle tug and subtle verbal command is what I want to direct interest away from something. Some training may need to be done off property to get communication going. Get pup to play when chickens around but have play involve something other than the chickens. At some point you want the activities off the leash. Dog needs to respond appropriately by that time.

Dog may need to be 2 years old before interest in chickens drops so dog can be with chickens without supervision. Most, but not all, of my dogs kill at least a couple chickens before the dog settles in role as a protector. For me, the dogs require at least as much time as the chickens during the first couple years. Thereafter the dog syncs up with me and chickens so we all get along without killing / deflowering the fowl.

 

[Aunt Angus]

I have a chiweenie who is VERY prey driven. We got her as a senior rescue, so it's been very difficult to train her. She also joined our family a few years before the chickens. We are fortunate in that she has no interest in the chickens. Chicks, however, is another matter. When my broody had a chick with her, my dog was not allowed in the yard with them - period. Now that the chick is bawling and nearly the size of her mama, it's fine.

I know I could train her, but it would be tremendously difficult given that she's nearly 10. I decided I don't have the time or the patience anymore to do as others have suggested. Keeping them separated was the best option for me. If you only free range for a few hours every day, it might be an option for you, too. Might be easier to keep puppy in the house during free range time.

Of course, your dog is young and smart, unlike my old dummy dog. Hahaha! (Don't tell Hattie I called her dumb. Might give her a complex)

 

[Frogorf]

There are a lot of friends on this post. Shout out to everyone with the helpful tips! Which is everyone!
I would like to ad some things to keep in mind while “rewiring” your pups mind. If you choose the training route instead of the confinement, while chickens are at large.
Not completely geared towards dog not hunting chicken training but training and creating a well rounded member, of your family, in general.
I apologize if I sound like a broken record to previous replies. Let’s get started...

1. A tired dog is a happy dog. Not just body tired...mind as well. They need to be exercised daily! Give them puzzles to work out or a job they can focus on. Once you start...you must stay consistent.

2. Know your dog. Like humans dogs have different personalities. Some are sensitive to correction and some need a little more nudging. One method may work for someone else’s dog, may not work for yours. The goal is to teach your pup to respect all family members(including chickens) not to be afraid of them ( including you)

3. There’s some controversy over this next one, but I’ll say it anyway. If your pup isn’t in a breeding program spay/neuter if it hasn’t been done already. In my experience, pups brains
that don’t have to contend with hormones are a little easier to mold.

4. Praise! While working with your pup. Praise should always out weigh corrections. Don’t set your dog up to fail and have to be corrected. It’s stressful for you and counterproductive for the end goal.

5. Timing! Praise and corrections need to be “ In the moment “ I can not stress this enough. A second is a lifetime away. Think of snapping a picture. What is happening at that moment, is the picture you want, in your dog’s mind, to coincide with the praise or correction.

6. Kennels are a place of security and “ down time “ their own place to feel safe and relaxed. If you use your kennel for punishment then it’s a good idea to provide another mat/ bed / blanket somewhere else to “ settle” on. I can take my dogs anywhere with their settle mats and they will stay on them. Content to just observe goings on around them.

7. Baby steps. Start small. Break down all the steps into pieces. To where your dog can understand them. Think of teaching some one read. First you learn the letters. Then you learn the sounds each letter makes and then you learn the words. Dog world...you teach the letters aka basic commands sit, wait, down, stay, come, heel, drop it, leave it, go settle and OK! These are the building blocks to a world of possibilities. Once these are mastered. Then and only then should you start an advanced “ vocabulary.” Ie: off leash training, go find, agility, and most importantly leave the chickens alone. To name a few.

Now this may look a little daunting. Trust me it isn’t. Pups are sponges. They do learn quickly with short consistent training sessions.
Exercise your pup first. Don’t exhaust them. Just enough to take the edge off to focus on you.
Make it fun and seamless. Example. Sitting beside the door. Waiting for the leash, stay as door is fully opened and human has stepped out. Ok! to follow human out. Good girl! Pat pat. Thats 4 simple and quick commands in about a minute or less. And after it’s mastered. Going for a walk is a reward all on its own.
Hope this is helpful. Have fun!

 

[Willowspirit]

[QUOTE="Momma*chicken, post: 21545195, member: ] Thankfully we r moving from here in about a month to a nice quiet road so she will b allowed to have more freedom then.[/QUOTE]

If you turn her loose there before she is trained to come when you call you may never see her again. I recommend a kennel or pen until you get her under control. That she doesn’t perform without treats means you have not trained her long enough in these behaviors. Eventually she’ll do these tricks without rewards.

Here is a trick I use to call my dobe puppy. I use a clicker. I call her, click and treat. If she’s off somewhere and doesn’t come I just click the clicker and she comes running. This is only in a confined area. She does not have free range privileges yet because she takes off to the neighbors. To make this an example she is one 1/2 years old and we’ve lived here for six months.

 

[Willowspirit]

There are a lot of friends on this post. Shout out to everyone with the helpful tips! Which is everyone!
I would like to ad some things to keep in mind while “rewiring” your pups mind. If you choose the training route instead of the confinement, while chickens are at large.
Not completely geared towards dog not hunting chicken training but training and creating a well rounded member, of your family, in general.
I apologize if I sound like a broken record to previous replies. Let’s get started...

1. A tired dog is a happy dog. Not just body tired...mind as well. They need to be exercised daily! Give them puzzles to work out or a job they can focus on. Once you start...you must stay consistent.

2. Know your dog. Like humans dogs have different personalities. Some are sensitive to correction and some need a little more nudging. One method may work for someone else’s dog, may not work for yours. The goal is to teach your pup to respect all family members(including chickens) not to be afraid of them ( including you)

3. There’s some controversy over this next one, but I’ll say it anyway. If your pup isn’t in a breeding program spay/neuter if it hasn’t been done already. In my experience, pups brains
that don’t have to contend with hormones are a little easier to mold.

4. Praise! While working with your pup. Praise should always out weigh corrections. Don’t set your dog up to fail and have to be corrected. It’s stressful for you and counterproductive for the end goal.

5. Timing! Praise and corrections need to be “ In the moment “ I can not stress this enough. A second is a lifetime away. Think of snapping a picture. What is happening at that moment, is the picture you want, in your dog’s mind, to coincide with the praise or correction.

6. Kennels are a place of security and “ down time “ their own place to feel safe and relaxed. If you use your kennel for punishment then it’s a good idea to provide another mat/ bed / blanket somewhere else to “ settle” on. I can take my dogs anywhere with their settle mats and they will stay on them. Content to just observe goings on around them.

7. Baby steps. Start small. Break down all the steps into pieces. To where your dog can understand them. Think of teaching some one read. First you learn the letters. Then you learn the sounds each letter makes and then you learn the words. Dog world...you teach the letters aka basic commands sit, wait, down, stay, come, heel, drop it, leave it, go settle and OK! These are the building blocks to a world of possibilities. Once these are mastered. Then and only then should you start an advanced “ vocabulary.” Ie: off leash training, go find, agility, and most importantly leave the chickens alone. To name a few.

Now this may look a little daunting. Trust me it isn’t. Pups are sponges. They do learn quickly with short consistent training sessions.
Exercise your pup first. Don’t exhaust them. Just enough to take the edge off to focus on you.
Make it fun and seamless. Example. Sitting beside the door. Waiting for the leash, stay as door is fully opened and human has stepped out. Ok! to follow human out. Good girl! Pat pat. Thats 4 simple and quick commands in about a minute or less. And after it’s mastered. Going for a walk is a reward all on its own.
Hope this is helpful. Have fun!

Very good post!

 

[archeryrob]

I would get pup into a daily routine where you take it off property for extended activity to wear it down a bit. Then bring dog back while on leash and walk perimeter of property multiple times. Walk to middle of property, then approach boundary before stopping. Repeat. Do this with chickens present. Get dog interested in non-chicken stimuli. Best results I have had avoids use of outright punishment. A gentle tug and subtle verbal command is what I want to direct interest away from something. Some training may need to be done off property to get communication going. Get pup to play when chickens around but have play involve something other than the chickens. At some point you want the activities off the leash. Dog needs to respond appropriately by that time.

Dog may need to be 2 years old before interest in chickens drops so dog can be with chickens without supervision. Most, but not all, of my dogs kill at least a couple chickens before the dog settles in role as a protector. For me, the dogs require at least as much time as the chickens during the first couple years. Thereafter the dog syncs up with me and chickens so we all get along without killing / deflowering the fowl.

I train my dogs for waterfowl and some very good advice here. NEVER be harsh and many residential dog owners are especially if they went after an animal. It's their nature. I have trained my dogs to fetch everything, but only when I tell them. Start with Sit, Stay and NO!! The No is the best command of all. A No and a tug on the leash and they start learning. Your dog needs to stay on leash for a while. It may not be comfortable for you, but when he pounces on a birds you can't correct him before he does. Then you need to carry a leash when off leash and take his freedom back when he doesn't listen. You need to do this everyday, all day until he knows and never stop until he does. NEVER show frustration. When training frustrates you stop and take you and the dog in the house. Frustration to the dog can set him back two whole weeks and make him not trust you.

most people can't train their dogs because they talk to them as they are three to four year old humans and expect them to understand the words coming out of their mouths. Then give up before they can communicate by action where the dog will understand. Dogs want to do what you want, bt they also want to do what they want. You have to learn to think like a dog while training and not like a human. communicate the way a dog would understand with commands and actions (leash restraints) I taught my dog hands signal directions on a 25' leash.

Leave it is a huge one for me.

 

[archeryrob]

I do not recommend anyone use a shock collar until you understand dog training. Many overuse them and they dog only listens when the collar is on. It is a tool not a magic wand.

If you buy one shock yourself with it first. Put the pins in you palm and fire it. If your going to shock the dog, know what he is experiencing. Start on 1 and work up until he responds. Get one that beeps or vibrates also. Many time the beep or vibrate is the reminder a shock could come if you don't stop and all that is needed to reinforce control.

 

[MiaS]

Dog training is all about timing (they use chickens to teach trainers because they are faster than dogs!!). If you are reprimanding her and giving her a time out after she's done something you are too late, she has no idea what is going on or why. Find a good trainer to help you if you don't know much about it.

 

[Momma*chicken]

Thanks so much for all this imput everyone! I have so many different ways to train her out of it now. I will definitely give them a try! And for reference, yes, she is spayed. She seems to be a fast learner, so I'm sure that at least one of those ideas should work

 

[archeryrob]

I can train labs at 6 months and they learn, they learn so much better at 1 year as they listen better from being mature. Dog training is do it once, repeat, repeat and repeat. Stay consistent and don't show frustration or anger. If you feel close the one of last two, quit for a while and try later.