South Dakota Guy
Songster
Hello Danny and Welcome to BYC. I raise 6 chickens in our suburban backyard. 6 is the limit in my area and most surrounding areas. Our coop is 32 sq ft. (4ft x 8ft) Here is what I would like in a heater:
1) I would prefer a forced air heater which necessitates number 2
2) An easily removable, reusable and cleanable filter. This for the suction side of the heater to prevent down, feathers and dust from entering the heater and catching fire.
3) As most coops are naturally ventilated by openings near the top of the coop, A heater that allows for mounting low in the coop will do a better job of heating the air before it escapes through the upper vents of the coop.
4) Variable wattage settings. Many backyard chicken growers use an extension cord to their coops for a heated water dish of some kind to prevent the water from freezing. That wattage needs to be calculated into the max for the heater. I see cheap 25 ft and longer extension cords for sale in Walmart that are only rated for 13 amps. Some people will use them with the heater that you design. I probably wouldn't go over 1200 watts max and would shoot for 1000 watts max.
4) A remote thermostat that can be mounter easily four to 6 feet from the heater. Make a Wi-Fi app that lets us monitor and adjust the chicken coop temperature on our smart phones wherever we are.
5) Over temperature shut off.
6) A wall mount that lets us easily remove the heater for cleaning and inspection.
7) A cord that disconnects from the heater at the heater to facilitate number 6
8) A power on light and temperature setting display that is visible in darkness or low light.
I conclude by saying my needs as a backyard chicken grower will differ from others with larger coops. I live in South Dakota where we had temperatures as low -19 this winter. We used two radiant panel heaters and I felt like there must be something better that is also safe and won't burn my coop down.
1) I would prefer a forced air heater which necessitates number 2
2) An easily removable, reusable and cleanable filter. This for the suction side of the heater to prevent down, feathers and dust from entering the heater and catching fire.
3) As most coops are naturally ventilated by openings near the top of the coop, A heater that allows for mounting low in the coop will do a better job of heating the air before it escapes through the upper vents of the coop.
4) Variable wattage settings. Many backyard chicken growers use an extension cord to their coops for a heated water dish of some kind to prevent the water from freezing. That wattage needs to be calculated into the max for the heater. I see cheap 25 ft and longer extension cords for sale in Walmart that are only rated for 13 amps. Some people will use them with the heater that you design. I probably wouldn't go over 1200 watts max and would shoot for 1000 watts max.
4) A remote thermostat that can be mounter easily four to 6 feet from the heater. Make a Wi-Fi app that lets us monitor and adjust the chicken coop temperature on our smart phones wherever we are.
5) Over temperature shut off.
6) A wall mount that lets us easily remove the heater for cleaning and inspection.
7) A cord that disconnects from the heater at the heater to facilitate number 6
8) A power on light and temperature setting display that is visible in darkness or low light.
I conclude by saying my needs as a backyard chicken grower will differ from others with larger coops. I live in South Dakota where we had temperatures as low -19 this winter. We used two radiant panel heaters and I felt like there must be something better that is also safe and won't burn my coop down.