Necropsy results, is not coryza or CRD--parasites are rampant!!!

[yellowchicks]

Just administered the first round of 0.5 ml Valbazen to each 18-week old chicks. My daughter helped wrapped each sleeping chicken in a towel, while I tried to pry open their beak. I kept mumbling "chicken's right, my left" in case I messed up. I was probably more nervous than the chickens. All went smoothly, thank goodness.

Update:
I have dewormed our chickens with 2 rounds of Valbazen, 10 days apart. Shortly after the 2nd round of meds, two of the 21-week old hens started to lay eggs. It was really tempting to eat those eggs but we resisted. What do people do with the eggs during those 2 weeks of post-medication period? We plan to throw ours out, just bought a dozen of eggs to last us through this 2nd week.

 

[Scott H]

I wouldn't go 2 weeks...7 days tops but that's just me. Research it. The FDA says no slaughter for 7 days so that's when I would start eating eggs. Pitch them until then.

 

[CGinJCMO]

As to answer your question of what to do with the eggs that you can't eat...some people incubate them, some people feed them back to their dogs or chickens (or whatever animal they have). If fed back to chickens or other critter you may eat, it may prolong the withdrawal period - no personal proof, just a precaution I've heard. Another thing to do with those first pullet eggs, you could poke holes in the shells to blow out the contents and preserve the "First Egg" with all the honor it's due.

CG

 

[Elsa1986]

Just out of curiosity...what is going to happen when the worms become immune to all these chemical wormers? When the chemical has to become so strong it kills the bird? When the birds we raise have been so coddled that they genetically are weakened to the point of no return in the sense of surviving against anything? heat, cold, stress, parasites, etc? I'm all for protecting my flock, but I am also for protecting the survival of a species that I've come to love and I have to say that raising animals that form no resistance themselves to these enemies is like bringing about their own downfall. I wonder why no one sees the bigger picture. When it comes to doing natural, unfortunately it tends to be an all or nothing battle. Many wish to do "natural" and think that they can do it the way chemical wormers are used, twice to four times a year. Nuh uh. The thing about "natural" it is a misnomer, instead we should call it "methods requiring intensive use and dedication" because many times it takes a while to see results and in this attention deficit society that runs on instant gratification people can't handle using a method for six months or so to wait to see results. You can't expect miracles in the first hatch or two of birds, especially if the chicks were gotten from somewhere else. The medicated chick feed that is most often fed to chicks sets them up for total annihilation of their personal bacteria and this is difficult if not impossible to correct. So if you're going to invest the time and energy in doing "natural" just realize that it is a holistic viewpoint that includes getting rid of and not reproducing animals who have a tendency towards disease, raising your own chicks or investing in ones that have been organically raised so as to avoid the medicated feed, buying organically or non pesticide treated feed (really important to keep the bacterial balance) and spending inordinate amounts of time with your flock, not just limited to the time it takes to feed and change their water a couple times a week. If you will persevere though and continue to fight the tears that come when you lose animals to terrible diseases along with some parasites and related issues (a bird to a loose dog from free ranging as opposed to being penned up all day, you will be rewarded with a flock that is beyond what is considered healthy and the eggs and meat they produce will show the difference as well as the birds ability to live when other birds drop like flies to new and dangerous "super bugs".

 

[casportpony]

The medicated chick feed that is most often fed to chicks sets them up for total annihilation of their personal bacteria and this is difficult if not impossible to correct.

Welcome to BYC! This is not true when the feed is medicated with amprolium. Amprolium has zero effect on bacteria.

 

[lazy gardener]

This is an old thread. Let it die a natural death!

 

[casportpony]

Normally I would except I have a problem ignoring posts that contain misinformation.

 

[pasuit]

Your post is proof positive that DE and all the rest of the "organic wormers" wont kill worms, as I've been stating all along in other sections in this forum. As you now know, worms weaken the chickens immune system and opens the door for bacteria and viral diseases to invade their system complicating matters greatly.
If I were you, I'd forget the wazine from now on and just use the valbazen, later on down the road purchase safeguard equine paste wormer or safeguard liquid goat wormer to worm your birds to prevent worm resistance to one particular wormer.
When you get the valbazen, dose them orally 1/2cc for standards and 1/4cc for smaller birds. Redose them again in 10 days to kill larva hatched from eggs. There's a 24 day withdrawal from start to finish.
I highly recommend that you set up a regular worming schedule. Remember, one roundworm can lay thousands of eggs a day to be deposited onto your soil only to be picked up by another one of your chickens to start the worms lifecycle all over again. I worm mine every 3 months due to our warm/moist soil conditions and that is condusive for worms. You might consider worming semi annually or once every 8 months or however you see fit. Good luck.

 

[pasuit]

very good information. Thank you so much.

 

[BlueEyedBlonde]

Your post is proof positive that DE and all the rest of the "organic wormers" wont kill worms, as I've been stating all along in other sections in this forum. As you now know, worms weaken the chickens immune system and opens the door for bacteria and viral diseases to invade their system complicating matters greatly.
If I were you, I'd forget the wazine from now on and just use the valbazen, later on down the road purchase safeguard equine paste wormer or safeguard liquid goat wormer to worm your birds to prevent worm resistance to one particular wormer.
When you get the valbazen, dose them orally 1/2cc for standards and 1/4cc for smaller birds. Redose them again in 10 days to kill larva hatched from eggs. There's a 24 day withdrawal from start to finish.
I highly recommend that you set up a regular worming schedule. Remember, one roundworm can lay thousands of eggs a day to be deposited onto your soil only to be picked up by another one of your chickens to start the worms lifecycle all over again. I worm mine every 3 months due to our warm/moist soil conditions and that is condusive for worms. You might consider worming semi annually or once every 8 months or however you see fit. Good luck.

What would be the dosage for adult turkeys? And dose them and then do another dose in 10 days?