Need an opinion....sustainable flock

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Of course, you've thought of how many birds you'll want for a year's worth. Like somewhere between 50 and 100, I'd imagine. 50=1 bird a week to eat and 100=2 birds a week to eat. If you use an incubator you will probably get between 50-75% hatch rate if you get the auto turner and the fan and watch the incubator like a hawk, meaning someone will have to be home all day every day because a Little Giant is usally difficult to regulate when it comes to temperature. A Little Giant, for example, an easy to locate and buy incubator will hold about 40 eggs. So, about 20-30 eggs will hatch out of each full incubator. So that you only have to raise one batch of chickens and brood one batch of chickens and have one coop, you'll want to hatch them all at once. So you'll want between 2 and 4 incubators and 80-160 eggs at a time. If you collect eggs for only 6 days (5 is best) and store them properly during the time before you incubate them, you'll need X amount of layers. If your layers are laying 5 or 6 out of 7 days (78%) and you have 10 birds, you'll get about 47 eggs in 6 days--enough for one incubator plus about 7 extras. If you have 20 layers, it will be 2 incubators plus about 14 left over. Frankly, you probably don't want to carry more than 20 layers over the winter. It just ends up costing too much to feed them, but that's just my opinion. So if you have 20 hens, you can fill two incubators and get a total of probably 40-60+ meat birds to raise. If you want more, you can run another batch as soon as the first batch is out of the incubator. With a grow out period of 16 weeks, you've gotta be quick or the summer is over before you can get them all grown and harvested.

New Hampshire Reds are great birds. They pluck out to look very nice. They are a good size and ours tasted great. Our hens are friendly and nice and the roosters don't seem particularly aggressive. The breasts were a little broader than our Barred Rocks birds. I didn't like the way the Barred Rocks plucked with lots of black marks from the feather buds. They don't come out easily even when you scald them at the perfect temperature. And the black marks still show after they are roasted ... at least ours did. The roosters have seemed aggressive to people and we've kept a few around ... two for a year each. So, no Barred Rocks for us. Speckled Sussex are a lovely carcass, but I still had a little trouble with the black feather buds, but they came out pretty easily with the back side of a table knife. White skin. A little broader breast than the New Hampshire Reds. Tasty. Again, the roosters were aggressive to people, but the hens were extra friendly. The Dark Cornish are a nice-looking bird to eat, but dark feathers. They might be a good cross with the New Hampshire Reds. The roosters, though, can be a little tough on the back of the ladies, but ours haven't been aggressive to people. Dark Cornish roosters are big birds and strong. They need a separate coop when they aren't needed for mating. Hens don't lay as often as the New Hampshire Reds.

The New Hampshire Red ladies laid well. We got them from Cackle.

Of course, your mileage may vary.
 
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That isn't how the math has worked for me at all. Five to ten hens is the max I need for a meat bird project, with one (maybe two) good bators (Hovabator costs about the same as an LG but is much much better and doesn't require the babysitting). One week you have enough to fill one incubator, start the second the following week, have 80.

I'm graduating to a cabinet incubator next year, though. Even less babysitting then.
 
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I'm not super experienced at this, but i'll share my limited experience, which i think isn't too far off from others.

We recently butchered 6 white rocks, 2 easter eggers, and a black sexlink, who were right at 17 weeks old. They free ranged, in addition to eating flock raiser, for their entire lives, until the last three weeks, when they were isolated to a nice sized run and fed all the could eat each day.

The average dressed weight was only about 2 pounds. BUT they are really good meat, very tasty and tender, definitely more enjoyable than some of the older roosters i've butchered.

I am personally, very quickly becoming a fan of dp hybrids for meat. Of that butcher i just described, the sexlink was the heaviest at almost 3 pounds. That's a pretty big percentage difference at that size. But all of my hybrid boys, which are sexlinks and rir/bo hybrids, seem to grow so much faster and bulkier than the pure breeds.

Time (and i'm sure others' experience) will tell if i'm really correct about that.
 
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I should have been clearer. I am definitely not recommending a Little Giant incubator and that's why I mentioned the marathon "babysitting" that is involved. And yes, my husband has had a cabinet incubator on his project list since last spring (2009), but it keeps getting pushed back in the hopes that our broody hens will get the work done instead. And it is a possibility, but it's only working on a limited basis because we end up with little chicks all different ages, etc., etc., so logistically we're trying to figure out if we can get the kinks out of a system based on broodies.
 
I've got some good looking Speckled Sussex hens and am looking for a good roo to put with them. I'd be very interested to hear more opinions of them as a breed. Specifically how do they taste? I've read about some breeds being better than others. Would love to hear some opinions.

Thanks,

Don
 
I have had much the same idea, to raise a sustainable flock, that is. I have seriously looked into the Dorkings. Have you thought about them? They are a good dual prupose bird, but I have no personal experience. They may be worth a look. the hens can become exceptionally broody at times. They lay white eggs but have red earlobes. I am really wanting to get some.
 
I don't try to hatch and raise mine all at once. Most years, I'll incubate 2 or 3 times, and let hens hatch some as well. Foist the incubated chicks off on the hens whenever possible. That way I don't have to do a lot of brooding and raising myself. I don't mind having batches of different ages, that just means I don't have to butcher all at once. I'd rather deal with smaller groups.

I only have one incubator, an older LG. If I keep the temp in the room it's in fairly constant, I don't have any trouble with it. I take anywhere from 2 to 5 days making sure the temp is stable before I start the eggs. Then I don't mess with it. That's where a lot of people get in trouble, they constantly adjust the temp, and they get spikes and drops. If the room gets cold, and the temp gets a hair low, I put a towel or something over the 'bator, with empty paper towel rolls or something on top to keep the towel from blocking the air vents.

I know this will trigger some disagreement, but I've found I get better hatches if I keep the humidity low. I no longer add water at all, because I live in a humid climate. The ideal humidity, (here, in my climate, and with my chickens eggs, I won't swear this is foolproof for everybody) has been around 43%-45% for incubation. I no longer add water the last 3 days, either. The humidity goes up all by itself when the eggs begin to hatch. Once it goes over 55%, the eggs stop hatching. I think they get oxygen starved, if the humidity is too high. If I place a q-tip stick across the lower part of each corner, between the top and the bottom, it opens it just a hair and improves air circulation, keeps the humidity from getting too high, and I get a better hatch.

This year I haven't done as much, I've had to put some of my plans on hold until next year.
 
I didnt even think about differing ages in the process time. That would help take some of the workload off and by staggering them might help make it a more reasonable project. Good stuff to seriously consider. I'm more focused on the meat aspect then I am the egg aspect but it still has to be a respectable layer to produce enough eggs to sustain the flock that are freezer bound. I know with careful selection I can steer the flock where I want it to go, the key for me is finding what will suit our needs best then work on the individual I'm producing.

The weather here is really is my biggest enemy. It gets cold here, single digits at night in the winter are common, and we get lots of wind swirling drifts around, windchill has to be taken seriously. Its not like its Siberia but it can get nasty on some days/nights. Its not uncommon to get frost in April or in October so thats the realities of the window I'm trying to work with as far as raising stock for the freezer. They don't have to be eskimo chickens, but I won't go to heroic extremes either. If they don't lay in the short few hours of daylight in the dead of winter and don't want to leave the coop and romp in the snow; that's fine I don't blame them. My thoughts were to insulate the coop with foam sandwiched between plywood walls, and floor to help keep the cold and help block the wind, but I'm not running heat lamps from Halloween till Easter.

I really don't want to reinvent the wheel. Id rather just polish it a little to get what I want from it.
 
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Delawares are really good Dual porpose birds too
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