Need coop add on suggestions!!
- Thread starter alinas2010
- Start date
Cut the sheathing off over the top plate and secure the spaces between the rafters with 1/2" hardware cloth. Then attach a trim board to the bottom to further secure the HC and cover up the cut line.
I would install 24" wide poop boards set 30-34" above the floor with the roost centered over it about 12-14" high.
I would also install some top hinged windows backed with 1/2" hardware cloth for more ventilation.
Basically all the things I did with my shed to coop conversion. I love it.
I would install 24" wide poop boards set 30-34" above the floor with the roost centered over it about 12-14" high.
I would also install some top hinged windows backed with 1/2" hardware cloth for more ventilation.
Basically all the things I did with my shed to coop conversion. I love it.
Ventilation!
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/
Dobie's FABULOUS coop is linked in her profile. At least on a computer it shows as the bottom line in the profile. Not sure how it displays on a phone.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/
Dobie's FABULOUS coop is linked in her profile. At least on a computer it shows as the bottom line in the profile. Not sure how it displays on a phone.
They are actually U-shaped boards now.
Having roost level ventilation is important for summer time cross breeze to blow across the birds to cool them.
This coop has copious amounts of overhead ventilation in the gable peaks, ridge vent and between the rafters that are open year round along with the pop doors and two windows away from the roosting area that are kept cracked open during cold weather.
- Thread starter
- #2
I forgot to say, there’s only 4 of them. Our city limit is 6, although I don’t foresee having 6 anytime soon, so this is a mansion for them, but they deserve the best!
- Thread starter
- #5
More ventilation is definitely on my list. Thank you for the details! Do you have any photos of yours? It was so much cheaper to buy a shed vs a sturdy built coop. I’m so excited for them to have a wonderful new house.
I ripped 2x4's in half on the 3.5" side bringing the width to just under 1.75" then beveled the corners and sanded them to round them off.
All the details of the build are in the article. The height of the poop boards and how I constructed and attached them, the height of the roosts, etc.
Poop trays are so much a MUST that I neglect to consider other important things anymore. You've got such a nice clean slate there I hope you post pics of your progress, I know it's going to be very cool. And I couldn't agree more on your comment about space. The more space the happier the chickens and chicken keeper!
My must-haves for a coop are nests, roosts, predator protection, and environmental protection. Environmental protection means keep it dry (don't let rain, snow, or ground level water inside), keep strong winds from hitting them while on the roosts and give them a place to avoid strong winds during the day, and good ventilation. I'm not going to try to tell you how to do any of these, there are so many different ways to do any of them.
Now, some nice-to-have's for a flock of 4 to 6 girls in Wyoming. If you were going to be hatching chicks with broody hens or regularly integrating new chickens my list would grow.
You already have one of my most important nice-to-haves, room. In Wyoming especially you will find all that room great for 4 to 6 girls this winter. That's very important when they are stuck I the coop only for days or weeks on end. With extra room you can respond to emergencies as they come up. I find when I pack them tight I have more behavioral problems to deal with, I have to work harder, and I have more flexibility in dealing with the issues that come up. You should be able to manage quite well in that 8x8 walk-in coop.
I find it very helpful to have a built-in broody buster/prison. Design it to be elevated with a wire floor so poop can drop through and cool air can get to the bottom of the broody. Cut a piece of plywood to stick in there if you want a solid floor. This can be used for a broody buster, a hospital room, or anytime you need to isolate a chicken.
I built my nests so I could lock a hen in a few of them if I wanted to. That has come in handy for different reasons.
To me, an important thing in how you arrange your coop is to make it convenient for you. You are the one that is going to have to work in there. The chickens can adjust to about anything and can comfortably get into tighter spots than you can. When you position nests, how easy is it for you to gather the eggs? Don't put roosts where they get in your way. How are you going to open and close your pop door? I found it convenient to have a human door between my walk-in coop and the run. Very convenient. Where are you going to be storing the feed? I suggest a metal trash can with lid in the coop. Metal to keep mice and rats out and in the coop because it is so convenient. I like the roosts a convenient height so I can take the chickens off of the roost at night, they can be a lot easier to catch then. That makes checking them for problems or mites and lice easier.
Good luck!
Now, some nice-to-have's for a flock of 4 to 6 girls in Wyoming. If you were going to be hatching chicks with broody hens or regularly integrating new chickens my list would grow.
You already have one of my most important nice-to-haves, room. In Wyoming especially you will find all that room great for 4 to 6 girls this winter. That's very important when they are stuck I the coop only for days or weeks on end. With extra room you can respond to emergencies as they come up. I find when I pack them tight I have more behavioral problems to deal with, I have to work harder, and I have more flexibility in dealing with the issues that come up. You should be able to manage quite well in that 8x8 walk-in coop.
I find it very helpful to have a built-in broody buster/prison. Design it to be elevated with a wire floor so poop can drop through and cool air can get to the bottom of the broody. Cut a piece of plywood to stick in there if you want a solid floor. This can be used for a broody buster, a hospital room, or anytime you need to isolate a chicken.
I built my nests so I could lock a hen in a few of them if I wanted to. That has come in handy for different reasons.
To me, an important thing in how you arrange your coop is to make it convenient for you. You are the one that is going to have to work in there. The chickens can adjust to about anything and can comfortably get into tighter spots than you can. When you position nests, how easy is it for you to gather the eggs? Don't put roosts where they get in your way. How are you going to open and close your pop door? I found it convenient to have a human door between my walk-in coop and the run. Very convenient. Where are you going to be storing the feed? I suggest a metal trash can with lid in the coop. Metal to keep mice and rats out and in the coop because it is so convenient. I like the roosts a convenient height so I can take the chickens off of the roost at night, they can be a lot easier to catch then. That makes checking them for problems or mites and lice easier.
Good luck!
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