need help fast please!!!!

The next to last pic looks like a navel infection to me. I wish to remind everyone that taking the peeps out of the incubator or from under their mama to soon is IMHO the best way to lose baby chicks to navel or yoke sack infections.

Remember that chickens were having babies and hatching eggs long before you or I came on the scene and that they have much more practical experience brooding chicks than you or I ever will. Keep it as close to Maw Nature as possible.

No matter how hard we humans try to improve on Mother Nature if we don't ape her we fail. If you doubt me try hatching eggs by incubating them at 200 degrees instead of 100 and for ten and a half days instead of 21 and see how many chicks you hatch.

Any time you mix bantams, crested birds, and frizzled chickens with anything else you are asking for trouble, so don't be surprised if trouble comes knocking at your door, or rather I should say knocking on your show chickens' noggin..
 
Not sure how your post chickengeorgeto relates to this thread as op purchased chick with this issue. OP did not hatch chicks.
 
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The next to last pic looks like a navel infection to me.  I wish to remind everyone that taking the peeps out of the incubator or from under their mama to soon is IMHO the best way to lose baby chicks to navel or yoke sack infections.

Remember that chickens were having babies and hatching eggs long before you or I came on the scene and that they have much more practical experience brooding chicks than you or I ever will.  Keep it as close to Maw Nature as possible.

No matter how hard we humans try to improve on Mother Nature if we don't ape her we fail.  If you doubt me try hatching eggs by incubating them at 200 degrees instead of 100 and for ten and a half days instead of 21 and see how many chicks you hatch.

Any time you mix bantams, crested birds, and frizzled chickens with anything else you are asking for trouble, so don't be surprised if trouble comes knocking at your door, or rather I should say knocking on your show chickens' noggin.. 


I didn't hatch my chicks, I purchased them from a local feed store.
My polish chick with the crest issues was purchased today as well, I was curious about why her crest was so raw looking because the 2 I have from the same batch (but purchased about 2 wks ago don't have that problem. I assume since she was the last polish mixed with other bantams maybe she was picked on? She is now very comfy at home with me and in with other bantam polish, silkies, and a couple bantam Cochins. I plan to keep this flock in a separate coop them my older large breed girls.
 
The next to last pic looks like a navel infection to me.  I wish to remind everyone that taking the peeps out of the incubator or from under their mama to soon is IMHO the best way to lose baby chicks to navel or yoke sack infections.

Remember that chickens were having babies and hatching eggs long before you or I came on the scene and that they have much more practical experience brooding chicks than you or I ever will.  Keep it as close to Maw Nature as possible.

No matter how hard we humans try to improve on Mother Nature if we don't ape her we fail.  If you doubt me try hatching eggs by incubating them at 200 degrees instead of 100 and for ten and a half days instead of 21 and see how many chicks you hatch.

Any time you mix bantams, crested birds, and frizzled chickens with anything else you are asking for trouble, so don't be surprised if trouble comes knocking at your door, or rather I should say knocking on your show chickens' noggin.. 


I agree with the navel infection part, but not the rest..
I have turkeys, and bantam and full size chicks all brooding together and the only birds doing at all poorly are the turkeys and that is because cackle hatchery shipped me defective turkeys this year. With enough room you can mix crested, bantam, feather footed, and whatever with no issue. For real. Heck I hatch eggs that the mom is a super small game bantam and the dad is a huge buff orpington...so the idea that you can't mix the different aesthetics is just not true.
 
Technically birds have "belly buttons"it is a scar where cord use to be,but it does go away as bird matures and cannot be seen in adult birds.
 
Right but what I'm saying is that there is no external navel even when they first hatch. It isn't like it goes away one day as they get older. It is all internal...
Anyway moving on. Does anyone know what to do about a navel infection which is an internal infection and as such can't be treated through the skin?
Antibiotics.
 
Not sure how your post chickengeorgeto relates to this thread as op purchased chick with this issue. OP did not hatch chicks.
It relates to any chick who has not yet absorbed all of the yoke sack that it hatched with.

A too young chick dragging its yoke sack through a poopy chicken coop is a sure fired way to pickup some nasty infections.

I find the prospect of a chick both eliminating bodily waste out of its vent, and taking in neonatal nourishment through its vent, all at the same time a daunting proposition.

Don't argue with me, the chicks navel is clearly visible in the photos, if you wish to argue, argue with your monitor instead..
I didn't hatch my chicks, I purchased them from a local feed store.
My polish chick with the crest issues was purchased today as well, I was curious about why her crest was so raw looking because the 2 I have from the same batch (but purchased about 2 wks ago don't have that problem. I assume since she was the last polish mixed with other bantams maybe she was picked on? She is now very comfy at home with me and in with other bantam polish, silkies, and a couple bantam Cochins. I plan to keep this flock in a separate coop them my older large breed girls.
Your new Polish is a strange bird who has zero standing in the flock. This means that every chicken in the flock is gunning for the strange new bird and all are determined to put it in its place.

Then his or her crest both keep it from seeing the blow coming and it further limits your Polish eyesight causing it to blunder into the personal space of alpha hens drawing even more attacks. Not to mention that the crest marks your Polish chicken as a queer bird and like I said previously chickens don't view drastic differences in strength or ability kindly. Segregating your flock is the smart thing to do.

Now don't any of you go running off claiming that I said that chickens were racists, nothing could be further from the truth. As a factual matter chickens just don't tolerate other chickens who are smaller or weaker than themselves.
I agree with the navel infection part, but not the rest..
.... With enough room you can mix crested, bantam, feather footed, and whatever with no issue.... I hatch eggs that the mom is a super small game bantam and the dad is a huge buff orpington...so the idea that you can't mix the different aesthetics is just not true.
Take one of your young bantam mixes and try to introduce it into a 4X8 chicken tractor with 5 or 6 older standard bred chickens who have been together for years and see how it goes. I'm betting that it won't go well. One reason I say this is because that so many of the pleas for help for a pecking problem on this forum are asking for help for picked on Cochin, Frazzle, or Polish chickens. There is only two possibilities.

Face reality, either you show birds make rude hand and finger jesters at the rest of your flock, ticking off your chickens and inciting them to violence, or your flock views your show birds as easy birds to boss around and get a leg up on.
 
Any specific kind? Duramycin, tylan, amoxicillin?
Depends are you referring to omphalitis? If so,of the three you have listed i would use amoxicillin,but in the case of e coli it is becoming more resistant to antibiotics and the type of antibiotic used would depend on the type bacterial infection as there are several bacterial types that can cause omphalitis.

Enrofloxacin was one that was effective against e coli,but i believe it has been removed from food production,although you can probably still purchase through other sources.
 
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Uh oh, a chick with unabsorbed yolk, but wait---why is it sticking out of its vent?!

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Wait, I know. Because that is how they absorb it into their bodies, because that is how they are attached to it...I know I should let this go, but I've hatched too many chicks and waited for them to absorb their yolks to not know how it gets inside their bodies.
that is not the vent. Keep the chick warm and let it have some water. Keep the area clean, not sure if it needs to be kept moist or dry?
It still needs to absorb.
Also, hard boiled egg yolk and a drop of poultry nutri-drench on the side of the beak, away from the nostrils.

ETA: it looks more like umbilical hernia, which is normally caused by premature human "assistance".
 
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