Need Ideas on Upgrading a Historic Coop!

KaseySnow

Songster
5 Years
May 17, 2018
432
1,001
246
Golden, Colorado
Hello! I have been around BYC for a while, but for those who may not know, I volunteer with a history park that has a flock of chickens housed in a historic coop building pictured here (the coop is the building on the right):

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As you can see, these chickens are somewhat public access, so the coop and run requirements present some unique challenges.

The coop is an original building from the pioneering/gold rush era in our area of Colorado and so minimal structural changes will be allowed, especially to the exterior, in order to preserve historic authenticity. The chickens, coop, and run area are present for educational purposes via tours, summer camps, and walking guides available throughout the park. The coop and run has housed as many as 25 birds, but currently only has 8. They plan on getting more birds once this current population passes on as most of the birds are around 10 years old or older. We have a local avian vet that volunteers her time and advises us on their health and welfare.

Before we go further, here are some photos of the run and coop interior to give you an idea of what we are working with:

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As you can see, the area is quite spacious and we could likely house many more hens in it quite comfortably.

The museum that owns the park is in the process of writing a grant for funds to upgrade the run and coop and I am being asked to help come up with a plan for that. I have some ideas but would love to hear from some more experienced coop builders on what you see that could be improved.

Here are my ideas so far:

Completely enclose the run with a roof for predator protection - we've had no issues because there are so many people around during the day and we lock them in the coop at night, but better safe than sorry.

Install 1/4" hardware cloth to keep rodents out - I'm thinking along all fencing in the run (including the eventual roof) and extended out from the base of the run underground 2'. Also want to install it all around the interior walls of the coop 3' up from the concrete floor as well as around the big ventilation window opposite the nesting boxes(not well pictured, but you can see part of it in the last photo, though the window cover is down). (Edit: I have been informed that 1/2" hardware cloth is sufficient.)

Redesign roosting bars/poop board setup - The top roosting bars are about 5' off the ground and our heavier birds are hurting themselves jumping down. I am thinking if the coop and run is predator/rat proofed with hardware cloth that we can safely lower these roosting bars to around 3' or less off the ground. This would also make the poop board less huge and awkward to walk around when gathering eggs from the nesting boxes. The wall opposite the nesting boxes has a giant, wall-length window for ventilation, so it cannot have roosting bars attached, but we have all of the back wall to work with for roosts. May also lower the upper nesting boxes so they aren't tempted to roost in them once the bars are lowered.

Sand down roosting bars - We have plans to sand down the roughness on the natural wood being used for the current roosting bars, but we are also looking at getting much smaller pieces of wood entirely as our vet has indicated that these bars are too wide for the chickens' feet and they are making the girls more prone to bumblefoot.

Sliding feeder door in run by feeding station - I know many of you will say ditch the coin feeder, but it's a non negotiable as it raises funds for the chicken feed and care and is also a big attraction to the park for families (you can see a kid using the feeding slot in the second photo). I was thinking that keeping this open hole in the fencing would defeat the purpose of predator/rodent proofing the run, so I was thinking about designing a sliding panel door that kids could open to toss feed in and then close. Thoughts? Not sure if rats will climb that high to get to food, but I know the weasel family certainly will to get at chickens.

Things to note (not sure if it helps with design needs, but):

- They never free range outside of the run.

- We use the deep litter method with pine shavings inside the coop and refresh the bedding twice a year with a total clean out--once in spring, and once in the late fall after they all molt.

- All 8 of our birds roost on the top roosting bar currently with room to spare. The favored spot is the far left end of the top bar and they all just line up to the right as they go in from there.

- They plan to always have a variety of heritage breeds in the enclosure. Occasionally they may have two or three of one breed, but never more than that. No plans for bantams, though we did have a very small Cochin for a while who I wondered if she was a bantam. She seemed to do just fine though until she died after becoming egg bound, sadly.

- There are no plans to ever have roosters or raise chicks in this space. We will be getting new birds eventually but no birds younger than 6 months old will be placed here because they are so exposed to high volumes of the public and wild life (wild birds and rodents are attracted to the spilled feed at the feeder). We do not want young birds with developing immune systems to come into contact with all of the germs that will inevitably be around this coop for the foreseeable future.

- They currently have 24 hour access to two dust baths, two oyster shell stations, a veggie planter and climbing tree for enrichment, and a variety of pebbles for grit. Their feeders are put into the trash cans in the coop at night to keep rodents out.
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Those are the biggest items I can think of right now, but I would love love love any ideas from you wise BYCers out there. I have been volunteering with this flock for three years and have learned a lot both working with them and on these forums, but have never had chickens of my own. I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something.

Edit:

There was some confusion about the current ventilation, so I went and took pictures this morning. While it's true that up near the rafters there are some cracks between the wood, the main source of ventilation is the giant window and ventilation screens pictured below:
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When you walk in the door, immediately to your left is a giant ventilation window that can be opened or closed (it is screened in with mesh). There is also ventilation running all along that wall above the window as well as above the nesting boxes on the opposite wall. I have attached pictures with closeups of that ventilation as well below.

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These screened in vents are about 6" tall and run the length of the wall on both sides under the eaves of the roof. Basically where you see those bright bands of light above the walls over the window and the nesting boxes is where the ventilation is. The hens are no longer permitted to roost in the rafters, so this ventilation draws moisture out of the coop over their heads in winter as well as providing a cooling breeze in summer.

I also took some measurements this morning. Here is a very rudimentary diagram of the space:
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The coop stays open all day so the girls can go in and out as they please. The apiary is not an area that the chickens have access to currently, though there is a chance it will get moved and that space may also be available to them in the future. The dark blue lines are indicators of doorways.

And finally, I got some questions about the size of the roost bars, so here is a comparison image with my hand to give you an idea:

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I would say they are between 4"-5" in diameter (they are each a slightly different size).

I would love ideas of how to rearrange the roosting bars (and even nesting boxes) into a configuration that makes more sense for both us volunteers and for the chickens. Pictures of your own coop arrangements that work well would be swell too!

Thanks in advance for your feedback, everyone. :)
 
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My guess is they're going to say roofing is right out as it'd change the look of the enclosure completely.

Hardware cloth could help, even if you can't extend it higher than the current fence. It wouldn't exclude all rodents but an apron and a few feet of coverage would help deter them.

I would lower or at least remove the top roost. That shouldn't alter the look or function of the roost area so should be permissible. Sanding down the bars should help too, do you know what he diameter of the branches are? I would definitely remove or cover up the top nests, they're not necessary for the size of the flock and it will help keep birds from trying to roost in there in the future.

As far as the coin op feeder, does that hold scratch or feed? If it's scratch, one change that would be at least healthier for the birds would be to swap to pelleted feed. Kids could still feed the birds but it'd just be throwing regular food at them.
 
If a roofed run doesn't work out for historical preservation, perhaps it could be covered with that heavy-duty, anti-hawk netting, which would be less obtrusive.

Hardware cloth on the inside of the walls would be a good idea because it seems that the gaps between the boards are the primary ventilation (not necessarily a bad thing and, in fact, one of the ways venting was done historically before hardware cloth).

I can't tell from your pictures, but my natural branch roosts are about the thickness of my wrist at the thin end or my DH's wrist at the thick end -- say 2-3" diameter. Redoing the roost and poop board system to make it more convenient to work around sounds like a good idea, also lowering it.

@DobieLover included a good explanation of the poop board and roost construction on her coop page here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-mulligan.74743/page/demo-and-construction.36/
 
I wouldn't use 1/4" hardware cloth. I would use 1/2", 19 gauge hardware cloth. And you don't need to dig down 2'. Instead go OUT 2' and pin down the outer edge with HD landscape pins and cover it with a thin layer of soil. I stuff stainless steel wool between any ground level gaps that I can't cover with HC, like where the corners of the aprons meet. The goal is to close off any opening that is larger than 1/2".

Can you get better pictures of the ventilation window? How high is it in relation to the roosts?

How many square feet is the run? And the coop? I would limit the number of birds in the new flock to no more than 1 bird per 15-17 total square feet between the coop and run.

If you are permitted, I would remove the ladder roost and put in a 2' wide poop board with the roost centered along it, about 12-14" over the surface. I set my poop board 34" above the floor of the coop. I also have a ramp installed and the majority of the flock uses it to get up and down from the roosts.
How long is the wall with ladder roost?

I would also dig out the foam and fill that is between some of the boards. It's blocking ventilation. Cracks in the siding like that aren't going to be an issue for roosted birds.

I would also just remove the current branches and install a 2x4 that has been ripped in half and all corners rounded over. Research has shown this is the best roost profile for BY chickens.
 
but we are also looking at getting much smaller pieces of wood entirely as our vet has indicated that these bars are too wide for the chickens' feet and they are making the girls more prone to bumblefoot.
Much smaller?
Roosts look to be about 1.5-2" in diameter?
2" minimum is a decent rule of thumb.

Bumblefoot is caused by staph infection in a wound....not roost size.
 
Also, our roosts are branches or saplings, bark on, 2" to the rafters that are 4" fence posts. our bantams and standard birds all do fine on them! While prickers aren't good on roosts, bark is just fine, natural, and improves grip.
Your avian vet may be totally into the management of parrots and other indoor birds, not chickens. Ask!
I agree about the hardware cloth everywhere, and other suggestions from @DobieLover .
Dimensional lumber is not necessary for roosts, and definitely won't be historic!
Birds choose roosts based on their place in the flock social order, and in general, will want to be as high up as possible. Many of our birds roost eight feet up on the rafters! And bumblefoot hasn't been an issue. I wonder if your birds dislike that slanted wood structure that's so close to the lower roosts. Why is it there? Try having it gone.
We've never done a ramp to the roosts, but it might help some of your old arthritic hens too. Having a couple or roosts parallel to each other is good, rather than the ladder everywhere.
Reshingling might be necessary, if not now, fairly soon, so budget for that. Leaky roofs are bad!
Can that chicken wire be replaced by hardware cloth most places? Safer, for sure.
Choosing the right breeds will help in the future too. Diverse, heritage, and good in your climate. Fun!
Mary
 
My guess is they're going to say roofing is right out as it'd change the look of the enclosure completely.

Sanding down the bars should help too, do you know what he diameter of the branches are? I would definitely remove or cover up the top nests, they're not necessary for the size of the flock and it will help keep birds from trying to roost in there in the future.

As far as the coin op feeder, does that hold scratch or feed? If it's scratch, one change that would be at least healthier for the birds would be to swap to pelleted feed.
Probably a no on the roof, haha. But I have been in there during and after heavy rain and there are no leaks that I've ever seen, it stays quite dry in there.

I attached some photos of the roost bars at the bottom of my original post, but they are pretty darn thick. Most at least 4" if not more.

And the coin feeder is currently a feed mix of mostly layer pellets (aka their usual food) and a small amount of scratch. It's probably 80% feed, 20% scratch.
If a roofed run doesn't work out for historical preservation, perhaps it could be covered with that heavy-duty, anti-hawk netting, which would be less obtrusive.

Hardware cloth on the inside of the walls would be a good idea because it seems that the gaps between the boards are the primary ventilation (not necessarily a bad thing and, in fact, one of the ways venting was done historically before hardware cloth).
Good idea on the anti-hawk netting if no roof can be done!

I attached some pictures at the bottom of my original post of the ventilation system--I'm sure the cracks do some venting, but they are not the main airways by any means. :)

Thanks for the poop board thread! I'm going to read through it.
I wouldn't use 1/4" hardware cloth. I would use 1/2", 19 gauge hardware cloth. And you don't need to dig down 2'. Instead go OUT 2' and pin down the outer edge with HD landscape pins and cover it with a thin layer of soil. I stuff stainless steel wool between any ground level gaps that I can't cover with HC, like where the corners of the aprons meet. The goal is to close off any opening that is larger than 1/2".

Can you get better pictures of the ventilation window? How high is it in relation to the roosts?

How many square feet is the run? And the coop? I would limit the number of birds in the new flock to no more than 1 bird per 15-17 total square feet between the coop and run.

If you are permitted, I would remove the ladder roost and put in a 2' wide poop board with the roost centered along it, about 12-14" over the surface. I set my poop board 34" above the floor of the coop. I also have a ramp installed and the majority of the flock uses it to get up and down from the roosts.
How long is the wall with ladder roost?

I would also dig out the foam and fill that is between some of the boards. It's blocking ventilation. Cracks in the siding like that aren't going to be an issue for roosted birds.

I would also just remove the current branches and install a 2x4 that has been ripped in half and all corners rounded over. Research has shown this is the best roost profile for BY chickens.
Thanks for all of your questions, clarifications, and info! I've updated my original post with photos of the venting system and roosts.

I love your idea for the poop board/roost configuration, do you have a picture of yours you could share? We may add more birds eventually with the total being somewhere between 20-35 laying hens, ideally. So we want to make sure we have enough roost and nesting box space to accommodate a larger flock down the road.

I always thought it was quarter inch hardware cloth to keep out mice and rats, but if only 1/2" is needed then all the more better! It'll obstruct the view for guests that much less. I also think I worded it poorly in my post, but I did mean to say what you are describing with burying the HC *out* under the ground 2 feet from the run, not 2 feet down into the earth. Good to clarify though!

The foam you are seeing between some of the boards was to keep rats out. It's a bad tasting anti-pest foam with steel wool mixed in so they don't enjoy trying to bite through to get inside.

Much smaller?
Roosts look to be about 1.5-2" in diameter?
2" minimum is a decent rule of thumb.

Bumblefoot is caused by staph infection in a wound....not roost size.
The bars are around 4" in diameter (I updated my OP with a photo ref).

Our vet explained that when a roost bar is too wide, it causes the foot to stretch while their feet are trying to lock into place for sleep. She said this places pressure on the footpad in an unnatural way and can cause the skin of the pad to become cracked and dried easily, making it more prone to picking up infection. She said too small of a roost bar can also cause foot problems and also suggested the roughly 2" diameter roost you mentioned.
Your avian vet may be totally into the management of parrots and other indoor birds, not chickens. Ask!

Dimensional lumber is not necessary for roosts, and definitely won't be historic!
Birds choose roosts based on their place in the flock social order, and in general, will want to be as high up as possible. Many of our birds roost eight feet up on the rafters! And bumblefoot hasn't been an issue. I wonder if your birds dislike that slanted wood structure that's so close to the lower roosts. Why is it there? Try having it gone.
We've never done a ramp to the roosts, but it might help some of your old arthritic hens too. Having a couple or roosts parallel to each other is good, rather than the ladder everywhere.
Reshingling might be necessary, if not now, fairly soon, so budget for that. Leaky roofs are bad!
Can that chicken wire be replaced by hardware cloth most places? Safer, for sure.
Our vet specializes in avian and exotic animals and she spends a lot of time working with chickens. :)

As for the height causing them to be more prone to bumblefoot, we have seen it be the cause in our flock for our heavier birds. None of our lighter birds have ever gotten it, but all of the heavy girls currently have chronic bumblefoot, likely caused by foot injury from their 6-8 pound selves smashing into the ground from the rafters. Especially now that the coop floor is poured concrete to keep the rats out, I really don't want our heavier breeds jumping down more than a few feet in the mornings. I've closed off their access to the rafters and they have all been doing better ever since.

Foot injuries from jumping down from roosts that are too high are a common cause of bumblefoot because it can injure the footpad by cracking the skin on impact or landing hard on something pokey. The wound then picks up a staph infection and becomes what we call bumblefoot. Not only has our vet confirmed this, but I have read this on BYC as well. As you said, chickens will go up as high as you let them. But this is instinct to avoid detection by ground predators. Since our coop is secure, there is no reason they need to go up so high.

The slanted wood structure is the droppings board. We will probably keep some sort of poop board to catch droppings, but it definitely needs to be redone as it is too big and makes egg gathering hard on those back nesting boxes. The hens don't seem to mind it though, it does not touch them while they roost. Just catches poopy bombs, haha.

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There we go! I think I replied to most of the questions, thanks everyone for your input so far!

I would love to see any roosting/poop board/nest box setups you all use and have found effective if anyone wants to share pics!
 
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I have no suggestions...just want to say thanks for doing what you are doing. DD has visited the park numerous times growing up. Her school did several field trips and Girls Scouts troop made plenty of visits. Wonderful place.
Aww, thank you for letting me know! I am so glad to hear that you all have enjoyed the history park, I know the museum works hard to make it a fun place for everyone. How funny that someone else on BYC has actually been to this park, haha. Small chicken world!

great project! Please keep us updated with changes.
I'll do my best! It will likely be some months before anything moves forward with it as we are just brainstorming ideas right now, but I will keep this thread updated as able!
 

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