Needing some critique

[JEP]

So this coop size and shape was based off of repurposed material I had around. I plan to build a Wood's fresh air type and larger run once lumber prices come down. What I'm looking for is to make sure I have enough ventilation for sure, good latches and any other helpful hints. Coop interior is 5'L x 4'W x 4'H to peak(not including nesting boxes), roost 18" high, nest boxes 12x12x14. Enclosure is 10ft x 10ft.

 

[CluckerFamily]

The latches are good!
Are you located in a cold climate? For my roosts, I use 2x4's but I install them so that they wider side is the side the chickens roost on so that they can prevent frostbite of their feet. Their feathers are great insulators!
If wood takes a long time to come down in price, you could always look in your area on craiglist, or a local sawmill. You could also, if it wasn't too much work, have to coop outside of the run but attached to the run you have.

 

[JEP]

The roost is a 2x3. Its gets fairly cold here in NW Missouri but not like NDakota cold. I built it for 4 hens...my wife came home with 5. There is no insulation except the condensation blanket on the roof, which has vented eves, with a vent on each of the gables. Lumber is double the price from last year so I figured before I spent money on a nice big coop, we'd see how well we do with just a handful.

 

[3KillerBs]

4'x5' is just right for 5 hens. Good job on that.

You need more ventilation up at the roof level. Can you pull the soffit boards off and replace them with hardware cloth? And add more ventilation right at the top of the gable ends (unless you want to retrofit a ridge vent)?

I'd suggest trying to move the coop outside the enclosure to allow that entire 10x10 space to be used freely.

 

[JEP]

I can certainly remove the gable vents and just put hardware cloth. I do have the coop up off the ground enough that they can go under it. I was hoping it'd be big enough since I plan to free range in my back yard. If I do need to move it it wouldn't be too hard.

 

[3KillerBs]

I can certainly remove the gable vents and just put hardware cloth.

I meant at the very absolute peak of the roof -- where heat and ammonia will build up.

The usual figure for ventilation is 1 square foot per bird minimum -- which doesn't count ventilation through the pop door that will be closed at night or through windows that are closed in the winter because those are supplemental sources of ventilation not primary sources.

The two best ways to accomplish this are soffit/ridge peak venting or a monitor roof -- both of which move air over the chickens' head to remove heat, moisture, and ammonia without creating any drafts to blow directly on the chickens.

 

[rosemarythyme]

For 5 birds it'd be nice if you could move the coop outside the run, but I think you can get by with having it inside and elevated too, as it still gives you 100 sq ft of floor space in run.

Venting really isn't too bad for a small coop. I'd maybe consider opening up the soffits a bit more, but overall it's a pretty good build for size of flock.

 

[JEP]

I meant at the very absolute peak of the roof -- where heat and ammonia will build up.

The usual figure for ventilation is 1 square foot per bird minimum -- which doesn't count ventilation through the pop door that will be closed at night or through windows that are closed in the winter because those are supplemental sources of ventilation not primary sources.

The two best ways to accomplish this are soffit/ridge peak venting or a monitor roof -- both of which move air over the chickens' head to remove heat, moisture, and ammonia without creating any drafts to blow directly on the chickens.

Great explanation, I hadn't saw the sqft/bird on venting, I can certainly open the soffits easily, rosemarythyme had the same suggestion, thanks.