I don't think it's a situation of being ganged up on...just concern for the square footage...and for folks like me just starting out. Newbies like me don't know to add additional ventilation...or perch placements.. or anything....or if our coops allow for enough of space if they need to be cooped up (no pun intended) so that they don't peck each other to death.

If I had your talent for design, I would keep the same cute coops...but make them bigger with more ventilation...and lower the max bird limit.

I'm just speaking as a person who made errors in my build...
 
The rule of thumb is 2-3 sq feet per bird.

I'm curious where you got those figures from?

The general rule of thumb for a back yard flock is a MINIMUM of 4 s.f. in the COOP per bird, and 10 s.f. in the RUN per bird. Perhaps, it might be helpful if you keep those numbers in consideration, and design a coop for 6 birds (most feed stores REQUIRE the customer to purchase a MINIMUM of 6 chicks). This coop would be a walk in style (increased height allows adequate ventilation, bedding and optimal use of vertical space.) It would only need 2 nest boxes. They should be a minimum of 12" x 12" and 15" high. The perch should be 15" from back wall. Such a coop would have a minimum of 24 s.f. of open floor space, 6 linear ft. of perch space (difficult to provide in such a small foot print b/c the birds need enough room to be able to get up/down off perch without doing a face plant on the opposite wall.) The coop should have a good sized window, as well as soffit and eave venting. Pop door and nest boxes should be 6" above the floor to allow for adequate bedding. The perch needs to be ABOVE the nest boxes, and there should be at least 18" of space above the perch. Any less invites frost bite. The run should be a MINIMUM of 60 s.f. and also a walk in. Short little runs are nearly impossible to clean. A good run is deep enough so that it can be deep litter, and thus be a healthy part of the flock's environment instead of a fecal impacted bare soil run that gives chicken keeping a bad name.

Provide a plan that meets the needs of the flock, and your customers will recognize it for what it is.

Optimal use of materials would be a 4 x 8 shed style, with good roof overhang on all sides. Cheap venting would be soffit vents at front high side, and back low side made of 1/2" hdw. cloth. The attached run could easily take advantage of the 8' width to complete one wall of the run.
 
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I'm curious where you got those figures from?

The general rule of thumb for a back yard flock is a MINIMUM of 4 s.f. in the COOP per bird, and 10 s.f. in the RUN per bird. Perhaps, it might be helpful if you keep those numbers in consideration, and design a coop for 6 birds (most feed stores REQUIRE the customer to purchase a MINIMUM of 6 chicks). This coop would be a walk in style (increased height allows adequate ventilation, bedding and optimal use of vertical space.) It would only need 2 nest boxes. They should be a minimum of 12" x 12" and 15" high. The perch should be 15" from back wall. Such a coop would have a minimum of 24 s.f. of open floor space, 6 linear ft. of perch space (difficult to provide in such a small foot print b/c the birds need enough room to be able to get up/down off perch without doing a face plant on the opposite wall.) The coop should have a good sized window, as well as soffit and eave venting. Pop door and nest boxes should be 6" above the floor to allow for adequate bedding. The perch needs to be ABOVE the nest boxes, and there should be at least 18" of space above the perch. Any less invites frost bite. The run should be a MINIMUM of 60 s.f. and also a walk in. Short little runs are nearly impossible to clean. A good run is deep enough so that it can be deep litter, and thus be a healthy part of the flock's environment instead of a fecal impacted bare soil run that gives chicken keeping a bad name.

Provide a plan that meets the needs of the flock, and your customers will recognize it for what it is.
** Writing all this down ** for my new coop construction when the weather gets warm! Thank you!!!
 
These plans are in no way renditions of cheap prefab coops. Honestly, I think your comment was a bit harsh,
Not in fabrication/materials, but in size/design. It was harsh, but it was honest.

Didn't see a coop this large, unless it was including the run-which doesn't count and is misleading.

The '4' is a saving grace, kinda, but folks won't look at that they'll look at your max which is near CAFO tight.

They were actually designed by a professional architect who used my own hand-drawings/designs
Yes, wonderfully modeled, rendered, sectioned, detailed, and animated(I used to do this for a living) but to your sizes, shapes, and configurations.



Common 'rule of thumb' currently around here is 4sqft per bird in coop and 10sqft per bird in run MINIMUM...and that will not facilitate integrating new birds or isolating sick/problem birds, which is a very common need. Sorry you feel picked on but we see tons of problems due to over crowding in tiny coops misrepresented by manufacturers or plan sellers, we are passionate about the birds well being and the keepers peace of mind in providing their charges with good housing. If you had researched space needed here you would have learned that stuff.

Good ventilation is difficult in small coops, another reason they are not particularly functional. Sliding windows are not practical as they let weather in(rain/snow) and are just about worthless as ventilation in cold climates during the winter because of drafts directly on birds at roost. One thing you have going for your designs, at least they have roof overhangs which are good for tucking ventilation under the eaves but I didn't see anything about venting in the illustrations.
 
Thank you. I went by 2-3 sq ft per bird for chicken math (do you not all agree with this?), which is what I used for all of these coops. I appreciate the comments, everyone seems to be dwelling on the chicken numbers. I do have ranges, typically going from 4 birds to X numbers, which varies based on breed. I was reaching out to get some feedback/constructive criticism but not looking to get ganged up on. These are all DIY plans - if you want to cut extra vents or add extra windows because that is what you think is best, its all possible. As for the numbers, I will certainly consider lowering the second higher range numbers.

Most of the space requirements have already been addressed here before I could post back so Im not going to rehash any of that .... I have no skin in this game only commented on what I thought might be a future problem for your reputation nychick !

Prefab coops have three MAJOR problems that makes most every experienced chicken person steer newbies away # 1 Poor designs #2 cheap material and workmanship and #3 OVER RATED BIRD CAPACITY ! If you don't mind your business being considered just another misrepresenting chicken coop company it's certainly no money out of my pocket HOWEVER you asked the opinion of people on this board who can potentially sway the choice of hundreds if not thousands of your potential customers ... I'd choose wisely on taking their advice !
 
** Writing all this down ** for my new coop construction when the weather gets warm! Thank you!!!
I'd be happy to help you and my services are free. However, seeing what you built, I have no doubt that you can easily design your own. And after spending a winter with your gals, you'll have a better idea of what your and their needs are.
 
I'd be happy to help you and my services are free. However, seeing what you built, I have no doubt that you can easily design your own. And after spending a winter with your gals, you'll have a better idea of what your and their needs are.
I just started asking questions...under this forum..."Coop in a wind tunnel". Lol. I'm in the doodling design stage...snooping on others' coop stage...strategic planning stage...sucking up to my boyfriend stage so he's willing to labor for me. :lol:
 

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