New to keeping hens - need some tips on my re-homed girls

[EmilyT]

Hi everyone,

I'm completely new here and have stumbled across this forum while trying to catch-up on my hen homework, (as it were). I'm new to keeping hens and have stumbled across a 2 main issues I'd appreciate some tips and tricks on. I've rehomed 3 hens: a buff orpington, a dominique (or rather small plymouth rock) and a gorgeous and rather large black hen (undecided on her breed). I've had the hens approaching 2 weeks.

Prior to re-homing them I was informed that the BO was starting to peck the DOM after her most recent molt. Twinned with a relocation this has continued (unsurprisingly), but I do not want it to get worse and think it is a case of bullying over pecking order antics. The BO does seem to be quite mean in nature. The DOM is significantly smaller and I do worry that she will get worse in condition, (I am treating with a purple livestock wound spray when my aim is good enough)... this leads to my second issue...

All of the girls are very skittish. While I understand this is a new environment I would like to help them get used to my presence inside and outside of their home - mostly for they health. This is providing very difficult.... and is unsurprisingly stressful for them when I enter their space.

If I could have any tips on: chicken bullying & gaining their trust I would really appreciate it!

*They have lots of toys enrichment. Currently not free-roaming due to settling in/handling issue and avian flu restrictions in my area.

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC and the wonderful world of chickens.

Where, in general, are you? Climate matters.

IMO, the #1 thing necessary for dealing with social issues is plenty of SPACE.

The Usual Guidelines here are generally considered minimums and work best for a well-integrated group:

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

If they were crowded in their original situation any you can give them generous space the problem *might* (or might not), work itself out.

In re: socializing them to your presence, take it slow. Start out by just being the caretaker and bringer of food as they get used to their new home.

Then sit quietly next to the run regularly for a while. Bring a book or something and talk to them occasionally.

Then move your chair into their run and let them decide how closely to interact with you. Too many treat foods is bad, but this is a situation where treats can be used to your advantage -- sprinkling them around your feed.

Let them choose when to interact more directly with you.

 

[artbykarenehaley]

Oh bless you for taking them on! You will love having chickens.

My BO is a bully too, especially when it comes to hens smaller than her. I had to put her in a dog crate where she could see but not touch her flock mates to break the habit. The other birds were younger, not sure if yours is younger or just naturally small.

But in your case, I'd separate the victim. It's possible the third chicken would be tempted to peck her too out of curiosity. if she is skittish, it will be easier for you to catch her and treat her injuries. You'll be able to keep track of how well this one bird is eating and drinking.

I get new hens to be friends with me by sitting with them in their run. I don't approach. I don't try to pick up. I have a nice plate of wet feed or watermelon on my lap, and I just let them eat without bothering them. Be non threatening like that often enough and you'll probably get them to warm right up to you! Some birds are naturally flighty but your breeds tend to be people chickens.

This is also a good time to observe the birds and how they interact. Make mental note of one chasing the others away from water or food.

Good luck and welcome!

 

[EmilyT]

Welcome to BYC and the wonderful world of chickens.

Where, in general, are you? Climate matters.

IMO, the #1 thing necessary for dealing with social issues is plenty of SPACE.

The Usual Guidelines here are generally considered minimums and work best for a well-integrated group:

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

If they were crowded in their original situation any you can give them generous space the problem *might* (or might not), work itself out.

In re: socializing them to your presence, take it slow. Start out by just being the caretaker and bringer of food as they get used to their new home.

Then sit quietly next to the run regularly for a while. Bring a book or something and talk to them occasionally.

Then move your chair into their run and let them decide how closely to interact with you. Too many treat foods is bad, but this is a situation where treats can be used to your advantage -- sprinkling them around your feed.

Let them choose when to interact more directly with you.

Hi there,

Thanks so much for your tips and a reply to my first post!
I'm from the UK - we live in a rural village.

We built our coop to the British Hen Welfare Trust guidelines of space for hens (as we were going to pick up some ex-battery hens, before bird flu stopped the rehoming from going forward).

Our coop and run sound like they meet those measurements, with 2 square metres of run per each hen and a large coop. I haven't got individual nesting boxes in the coop as these hens didn't in their previous home.

I'll keep at it with the socialising and try my best to be patient.

 

[EmilyT]

Oh bless you for taking them on! You will love having chickens.

My BO is a bully too, especially when it comes to hens smaller than her. I had to put her in a dog crate where she could see but not touch her flock mates to break the habit. The other birds were younger, not sure if yours is younger or just naturally small.

But in your case, I'd separate the victim. It's possible the third chicken would be tempted to peck her too out of curiosity. if she is skittish, it will be easier for you to catch her and treat her injuries. You'll be able to keep track of how well this one bird is eating and drinking.

I get new hens to be friends with me by sitting with them in their run. I don't approach. I don't try to pick up. I have a nice plate of wet feed or watermelon on my lap, and I just let them eat without bothering them. Be non threatening like that often enough and you'll probably get them to warm right up to you! Some birds are naturally flighty but your breeds tend to be people chickens.

This is also a good time to observe the birds and how they interact. Make mental note of one chasing the others away from water or food.

Good luck and welcome!

Hi there!

Thanks for commenting on my post!

The BO really is a bully - food and water guarding and just generally picking on the smaller hen who is showing the brunt of her injuries, (which I am treating where possible). I've purchased a second run for the victim to go into, close to the rest of the flock but safely away so she can build up her strength and hopefully break for some time to de-stress. Would you say it is wise to have her separated overnight as well for a full break?

I'll also take note of your socialising tips - thank you! I will try and be more patient so that they can get used to me!

Thanks

 

[artbykarenehaley]

Yes to be safe i'd keep them fully separate until she's all healed. It might take a few days of that. Do you have something for her to shelter in at night?

 

[TexasTurkeyMama]

Hello from Texas, USA. When we have chicks that we hand raise and have one that needs some quiet time to heal we would bisect the brooder box so the other chicks would not reach the patient. The barrier needs to be like a mesh of wire or even a scrap of plexiglass
because the patient needs to see and hear the flock while healing. The rest of the flock needs to see the patient so when it's time to go back together the flock will admit the chick.

How interesting that your buff orpington is a bully. We have enjoyed our buff orpingtons, and the neighbors also had buffies that would walk across the yards to us to say howdy. We could reach down and collect them to carry them back home. Then again, we aren't chickens.

 

[EmilyT]

Yes to be safe i'd keep them fully separate until she's all healed. It might take a few days of that. Do you have something for her to shelter in at night?

Yes - I've got a small hen hide for her to go within the run, she will be perfectly safe in there at night.

 

[aart]

Our coop and run sound like they meet those measurements, with 2 square metres of run per each hen and a large coop.

That sounds good for the run, but too small a coop can cause crowding/bullying issues.
Unless your run is totally predator proof and they can use it 24/7.
How large is the coop, in meters by meters?

I'm from the UK

Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[LizGio]

An easy way to solve the food guarding problem is make multiple locations for your food if it's possible same with water