New to quail

For my girl

In the Brooder
Dec 17, 2017
29
20
49
Austin Texas
I raised chickens free range about 25 years ago. We eat a lot of chicken, but they don't taste as good as home raised - so I want to raise our own again (and I want my daughter to experience doing it). Unfortunately, my current neighborhood forbids them, and the predators around here would make free ranging them hard anyway (Red Tailed Hawks, Great Horned Owls, Raccoons, Opposums, a Badger - and of course cats).
We've been raising rabbits for years, building our own hutches and custom building for other people. We have an older hutch that is really nice - but doesn't incorporate the things we've learned -and it's too heavy to transport/sell - so we're going to convert it to use for A&M quail. It's 8 foot long by 2 1/2 feet front to back, and 7 foot tall. It has two mail levels with angled sheet metal between them so waste doesn't land on the heads of the ones below. Each level can be split into separate compartments by closing a door, and each compartment has it's own door. The top compartments are about 40 inches tall - with shelves that the rabbits like to lay on, and large enclosed dens in the back with yet another door to them. I thought I could either build ramps for the quail - or even split the upper level into two separate levels using wire or wood.
I'm looking at keeping about 6 hens, and a couple of roosters as stock - while incubating 10 to 20 eggs a week. We have a few pvc pens with plastic garden mesh sides that we use to put the bunnies out into the grass - and have made some good yard tractors (sold them all recently though). I don't know if I want to do a tractor for the quail - I just tire of having to move them around.I figure I should keep each hatch separate from the others - so I may do fewer hatches to suit the number of cages I have.
We already took a leap of faith and bought 100 eggs (received 105). I have a hovabator which I used mostly for lizard eggs - but the turner still works - and I had the smaller quail trays. I couldn't fit the larger eggs with 6 trays (the eggs bumped the trays). So I moved it out to 5 trays and we had 6 eggs for breakfast. Luckily, I don't plan on doing this many eggs at once again - because some of our jumbo eggs bump each other when you do two rows - and we had 6 fall out with the first rotation. Two were crushed - I don't know about the other four. I was guestimating about a 50% hatch rate for receiving them in the winter and them being our first batch - but that was a lot for the first 4 hours.

Questions:

Is 20 square feet enough room for 8 Jumbo A&M quail if they don't have a run - or will they feel crowded?
I heard I should use 28% protein chick starter - but the highest we have around here is Dumor 24% - do I need to supplement that? Is Dumor a good brand?
When I raised chickens - I only collected eggs from one part of the house - and let hens brood in the rest. I've heard that A&M quail will not brood their eggs unless they are free range. I'm torn between using a couple of large tubs and pine chip bedding, or building a standing two compartment brooder with radiant foam walls and wire mesh floors. I would build it to have slide in trays underneath (I often build rabbit hutches this way). The advantage to the tubs is that they accommodate small broods, the disadvantage is that they need separate heaters. What are your preferences - tub or standing? Wire bottom or litter?


Robert and Elizabeth
 
Welcome to BYC! Okay a lot of questions sorry if I miss any. 20 sq feet is plenty for 8 birds. A good chick starter will be fine keep it above 20%, and drumor is an okay brand it provides the essentials but it’s definitely not the best.(as for which is the best? You’ll have to experiment with that.) Coturnix/A&M quail will almost never go broody even if free ranged. As for flooring I use straw or shavings in the winter and the birds are on the ground (I live in Michigan and it can get real cold here). But wire mesh is usually the way to go 1/4in or possibly 1/2 in welded wire but I would also provide a little area where the birds can have some sold gorund.
 
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Welcome! Sounds like you have a great plan and start. I use a trough as a brooder on my back porch. Never considered doing it in full winter. I had 50 shipped eggs and hatched about 30. Would love to see pics of your setup. My pen for breeders is 8' x 3' divided into two sections where I have a male and six females on each side. Sorry for the duplicate pics, not sure how to clean it up
0E951EAD-5492-4A28-BC49-115DC88E41CE.jpeg
0E951EAD-5492-4A28-BC49-115DC88E41CE.jpeg

I raised chickens free range about 25 years ago. We eat a lot of chicken, but they don't taste as good as home raised - so I want to raise our own again (and I want my daughter to experience doing it). Unfortunately, my current neighborhood forbids them, and the predators around here would make free ranging them hard anyway (Red Tailed Hawks, Great Horned Owls, Raccoons, Opposums, a Badger - and of course cats).
We've been raising rabbits for years, building our own hutches and custom building for other people. We have an older hutch that is really nice - but doesn't incorporate the things we've learned -and it's too heavy to transport/sell - so we're going to convert it to use for A&M quail. It's 8 foot long by 2 1/2 feet front to back, and 7 foot tall. It has two mail levels with angled sheet metal between them so waste doesn't land on the heads of the ones below. Each level can be split into separate compartments by closing a door, and each compartment has it's own door. The top compartments are about 40 inches tall - with shelves that the rabbits like to lay on, and large enclosed dens in the back with yet another door to them. I thought I could either build ramps for the quail - or even split the upper level into two separate levels using wire or wood.
I'm looking at keeping about 6 hens, and a couple of roosters as stock - while incubating 10 to 20 eggs a week. We have a few pvc pens with plastic garden mesh sides that we use to put the bunnies out into the grass - and have made some good yard tractors (sold them all recently though). I don't know if I want to do a tractor for the quail - I just tire of having to move them around.I figure I should keep each hatch separate from the others - so I may do fewer hatches to suit the number of cages I have.
We already took a leap of faith and bought 100 eggs (received 105). I have a hovabator which I used mostly for lizard eggs - but the turner still works - and I had the smaller quail trays. I couldn't fit the larger eggs with 6 trays (the eggs bumped the trays). So I moved it out to 5 trays and we had 6 eggs for breakfast. Luckily, I don't plan on doing this many eggs at once again - because some of our jumbo eggs bump each other when you do two rows - and we had 6 fall out with the first rotation. Two were crushed - I don't know about the other four. I was guestimating about a 50% hatch rate for receiving them in the winter and them being our first batch - but that was a lot for the first 4 hours.

Questions:

Is 20 square feet enough room for 8 Jumbo A&M quail if they don't have a run - or will they feel crowded?
I heard I should use 28% protein chick starter - but the highest we have around here is Dumor 24% - do I need to supplement that? Is Dumor a good brand?
When I raised chickens - I only collected eggs from one part of the house - and let hens brood in the rest. I've heard that A&M quail will not brood their eggs unless they are free range. I'm torn between using a couple of large tubs and pine chip bedding, or building a standing two compartment brooder with radiant foam walls and wire mesh floors. I would build it to have slide in trays underneath (I often build rabbit hutches this way). The advantage to the tubs is that they accommodate small broods, the disadvantage is that they need separate heaters. What are your preferences - tub or standing? Wire bottom or litter?


Robert and Elizabeth
 
Hello:frow
Welcome to BYC!!
So glad to have you here!!
Thanks for sharing your story!!
I love in north florida and keep mine on the ground with a cage used as a cage for covrage with pine shavings as the floor. I rake it about every three-four days. They love the dirt and seem to do better that way. Its is a flight pin so its pretty tall. I have a cage in my coop with my "teenagers" with a heading pad only and they seem to do good with that till they are old enought to be out in the pin. I am on batch 3 with batch 4 going in the bator tomorrow.
There are many people on here that are ready to help in anyway they can!
The learning center also has alot of great information on it as well!
Enjoy!:wee
 
When you come around the corner of the house - you come to the bunny hutches. Those are the three current hutches. In the third picture - the hutch on the far right is what we are going to use for the quail. Instead of wire floors is has perforated metal with 1/2 in holes (they were ventilated doors from a propane tank storage). The things wee don't do anymore are:
1) That flooring - is isn't as clean for bunnies as using the 1x1/2 wire.
2) We don't use built in wooden enclosed dens anymore - they get too messy - we use plastic boxes filled with hay now...
3) The doors open 5" above the floor - so the bunnies don't crowd the door and fall out like lemmings heading for the sea.
4) The new hutches are smaller, lighter, modular (same doors, same roofs, the roofs lift off, 1x2 wire).

We used smaller individual waterers in the past. Now we use 5 and 7 gallon water jugs that are all connected to fill from one hose connection with a quick connect. We used to connect pvc drainpipe to the tops of our feeders to make them hold more - but the lids would let water in when we had heavy wind with the rain - so we connect clear snapware containers to the top instead (with the bottom cut out). The food stays dry, and you can see at a glance what the level is.
I plan on just using the old bunny hutch while we learn what works best and we'll custom build some stuff for them. We've been using it to babysit bunnies and guinea pigs for people - and we had several budgies in it that we were taming for a rescue group. We've got one left that no-one wants - but he likes the bunnies and they like him. He got loose when someone came to look at him - but the next day he showed up in the lower cage with a bunny that we let run loose a lot because he puts himself up. We'll let the budgie stay as long as he wants. He can fly - so he sticks to the upper parts of the cage - and can squeeze between the two sides to visit his friends.
 

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We just hit day 14 with our first batch of quail, and I just don't see how these things can be ready to hatch in 3 days. We placed 99 in the incubator - but they are a tight fit in the turner cups (big eggs) and 6 rolled out - with 2 getting crushed (down to 97). I candled them at 11 days and removed 13 that were obviously unfertilized. I just put them in lockdown an hour ago, and removed another two that were clear. So entering lockdown we're at 82 of 99. Being our first time hatching quail, and getting the eggs in the mail during a cold spell - I figured we'd be doing good to have a 50% hatch rate. I'm upcycling a couple of our 40 gallon camping tubs and leftover wire shelving to use as 2 brooders. I figured that at 2 weeks a tubs capacity would be 22 - but I'm guessing I'm going to need to brood them for 3 or 4 weeks because we're having an unusually cold winter. If they get too crowded in the tubs my backup plan is to use my daughter's old 5 foot by 5 foot tent (zips totally closed) with several inches of shavings as a bigger brooder (in the garage). I have a friend that owns a feed store and if I have way too many then I'll trade them in for feed or hay. I plan on eventually starting a new hatch of 10 to 20 eggs every 10 days - I just wanted to start with enough in the first batch to pick the best ones (hey - and it was $50 for 100 or $40 for 50 eggs - so why not go for 100? - eek!).

Question 1: Once getting rid of the clear eggs - I should still expect 1/10 of these or so to not hatch right? While candling I watched a couple moving - but there's no guarantee that even those will successfully hatch. I should be okay - but if all 82 happened to hatch then I'd better buy more shavings and get the tent ready.

Question 2: I want to eventually have 6 to 8 hens and 2 roosters. Should I pick my hens from this batch and order 2 dozen eggs from someone else so I have more diversity - or with starting from 105 eggs should I have enough diversity to keep my hens and roosters from this batch? Thanks for any opinion.
 
You already have answered your own question in Q1.

Q2, if you only want to keep 6-8 hens and 2 roo's then you'll have enough to chose from...with that many going into "lockdown", you should have around 50 hatch, even with shipped eggs.
 

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