Newbie getting ready for winter - Insulating? Closing down Windows?

[MaggieRose2001]

Very nice coop!!

Thank you!!

 

[MaggieRose2001]

I just read to the end of the thread and I didn't see anyone address this -

Bear-proofing is something you definitely should put on your to-do list. Our neighbors, who have had chickens for decades, have lost them to bears 4 times, the last 3 over about the last decade. You can see pictures from the last loss here.

The bear have gone through fairly flimsy metal siding on a tractor, through a fence while the electric wire (two strands mounted on stand-off insulators along the outside of their mesh run fence) was turned off, through the clapboard side of the summer (freestanding) coop, and through the 1" boards that formed the front of their winter coop in the barn (barn door was open).

Bears have not (to date) gone through a live electric fence in my experience.

Ya - I figured the only hope I had at deterring a bear would be electric fencing. They are determined buggers.

 

[MaggieRose2001]

Wow, I’m so glad to find someone who is as invested in their feathered family as I am! Absolutely beautiful coop- you took time for sure.

Bear with me because I know you have had a lot of answers but I want to chime in with my personal notes. We all have our opinions/set-ups so you can just take what you want from them. My set-up has worked beautifully for 3 1/2 years so I’m very pleased with it.

I have 5 coops, custom-built, to meet my chickens’ and guineas’ needs for our climate and area. I have most 10x12’ but we also have a 16x16’ bigger one. I have a total of 1 rooster and 17 hens, with 2 guinea hens and 4 guinea guys living in their own coop. We live on top of a mountain, about 2200 feet up, so it gets considerably colder and windier than in the valleys. I still think you are colder in the winter because we rarely drop below zero but we do get up over 90 at times in the summer, which seems to be more frequent every year. Most importantly, living in the middle of nowhere and in a heavily forested area, we have predators and lots of them! Bears, coyotes, bobcats, a lone weasel, possums, huge hawks, etc. These were and still are a huge concern, especially as I won’t hurt any of my visitors- they have a right to live too and it’s my job to make it so difficult to take a run at my gu that they move on.

The coops are all made with tongue and groove pine walls, metal roofs, and electrical outlets inside. The roofs are lined with thin foam for an extra insulation factor and the small gaps between the roof grooves and the outer walls are filled with expandable foam to prevent any small creature entry. Each has three windows with screens lining one wall, a long locked and screened pull-down hatch on the opposite side, a door on one end near the roof peak with a grilled vent and a fan running in front of it to increase the ventilation factor and a run entrance through wooden latched doors (used to be the automatic but I had significant problems with them so I went back to low-tech) on the other end. There are multiple perches inside and an entire row of nesting boxes under the windows, accessible from inside and outside via a locked pull-up door. I made curtains to cover the boxes so they would have privacy, which significantly decreases their stress level when nesting. I also have red lighting that comes on at night, which doesn’t even register with them. While I have lights on the ceilings, I don’t usually turn them on in the daytime, even in winter-dark. There are scattered radiant heating plates on interior walls, the flat ones you can easily get through Amazon, and I have elevated nipple-waterers and drum feeders on the floors. The flooring inside and in the outdoor runs is all construction sand. Outside the buildings we have runs made with 1/4” hardware cloth and swing out full-size doors for people entry. All of the chickens/rooster can see each other (but I only let each group put individually because of some serious “personality issues”). We did bury a large apron of tight wire completely around each coop to stop any predator digging and also put a gravel border on top of tarps around each coop to keep vegetation from growing too close to the coops themselves. Clean out long doors run along one side if I ever used bedding. There are weather-proof radios attached to each coop and there are “night-eyes” around the coops and spread randomly in immediate surrounding areas. In case you’re thinking we must be 18 and super-energetic, wrong! We are in our 60’s, I have health issues that preclude my doing the grunt work and my husband gets the joys of anything that goes wrong. I am the adoring chicken mom who reaps the love and fun factors.

When we first started out, I did lots of research on their living quarters and these are the fruits of my intellectual endeavors. Obviously, some would work for you and others might not.

While I see many people have an affinity for the pine bedding that you can continue to put new layers on, I found it very difficult to deal with as far as clean-out, we did get moisture in it from settling waste, it was not very good-smelling and it became expensive to keep refreshing. I worried a lot about disease that could start in it so it simply wasn’t viable for us. Sand is a one and done expense! I have no trouble with any moisture in it after the initial drying period when set up and it is SO simple to just pick up the daily feces with a kitty scooper, even in those floor and run dimensions. The outside run sand does occasionally get wet during storms but it dries out quickly and the birds seem to know to stay off of it until then. This decision, out of all others, has made me happiest!

The predator-proofing speaks for itself and is useful if you have those issues. I have never lost a single chicken or guinea to break-ins and only one guinea hen years ago who decided she should relocate her nest into the woods and was taken by coyotes overnight. I stay out with them when they have their daily free-range activities or stay nearby in the house to run out for pending hawk fly-overs. The guineas are wonderful at alarming for any danger so you know to run if they start squawking their predator noises. My rooster is a grand protector but doesn’t have the finely-tuned instincts to know when something is hiding nearby… he relies on the guineas as his early warning system-haha. I know this approach isn’t feasible if you aren’t home all the time so I keep them secured whenever we are away. I have learned that weasels and other similarly flexible and small predators can squeeze through the tiniest spaces, hence why we were so careful to seal everything. The grated and screened vents let in plenty of air but are not conducive to attack, particularly with the fan going.

There are always the varied opinions regarding providing heat in the winter and people swear by their methods one way or the other. I agree that chickens do well even in very cold temperatures: however, our wind factor can drop the temps so low due to wind-chill, and with their insulating feathers being blown around, I’m not comfortable at natural. In addition, their feet can get frostbite if they aren’t sitting on them most of the time. The rooster and hen combs can also frostbite and a small area of my roosters comb did just that the first year; hence all the heating plates. First, your water must, must, must stay heated to prevent freezing and deceased birds, we use a plate designed for that and it stays in the water dispenser all winter. The wall heating plates are simply radiant heat that never get hot enough to burn anybody, certainly not enough to set fires. I staggered them at multiple levels so there would always be areas with no heat and others they could crowd around. Foam insulating, even the very thin sheets, does help to cut the cold of the metal roofs; since guineas like to roost up high, it’s a little extra protection for these birds native to Africa. The coops never get warm, warm but it provides a little protection frthe very cold temps.

As far as eggs, my gals must be hyper-achievers. While their egg production, in all of their breeds, kicks into high gear for the warm months, as in daily, they never stop laying completely in the winter, no matter how cold and dark. They don’t get any additional light and some research has shown it is far healthier for the layers to have the down-time during the winter months. For commercial purposes this isn’t apparently feasible, but for “pets”, I’m shooting for the most natural and healthy ways to do things. I think your fairy lights are a brilliant idea if you are only putting them on a few hours in the daytime and fighting the dark and gloomy weather you sometimes get. It would probably make that beautiful coop even more so!

I did kind the walls with empty feed bags when we first started out; this led me to discover that some intrepid birds like to pull paper off the bags and there are the hidden thin strings that can be pulled loose. One day I found one of my girls had lassoed herself with the string and was thoroughly disgusted with the situation! I guess I thought about the potential hazard if it had tightened around her neck so they all came down (sorry Chicken Chick). I have had no problems with dirty walls and the feces are so visible on the sand that it eliminates any need for bags or boards to see their poop.

View attachment 2860219View attachment 2860203View attachment 2860212View attachment 2860219
This is Glenn, lover of girls. You can see the wall and the pull-down slot that runs the length of the building. As you see, we had just started lining with feed bags but discarded them later.


This string has been fascinating and lengthy so I’m sure I’ve lost track of any other subjects. As I said, reading everyone’s thoughts is always a good idea as we are all trying to get to the same place- healthier companions! Best of luck and I remain jealous of your beautiful paint job! View attachment 2860203
Just for fun, this is Bonnie when she laid her first egg- she decided to climb into the bag of pine shavings and set her nest there. They aren’t the smartest when they first start laying but I thought this was a clever idea!View attachment 2860212
Outer door and ramp for run. You might notice we had the door insulated on the back to form a very tight seal when closed.
View attachment 2860223
Interior before completion-View attachment 2860235
Gary and Georgia- you can see the best texture of sand I’ve found.View attachment 2860243
Windows in smallest coop, nesting boxes being constructed.

can’t seem to find my exterior building shots but you get the idea.

This string has been fascinating and lengthy so I’m sure I’ve lost track of any other subjects. As I said, reading everyone’s thoughts is always a good idea as we are all trying to get to the same place- healthier companions! Best of luck and I remain jealous of your beautiful paint job!

Wow - thank you for the plethora of information. Your coop looks great - I love the chicken in the bag of shavings. So cute. I will look into the heat plates on Amazon if it gets too cold for too long. Thank you for the ideas and compliment.

 

[Bella Dominique]

LOL. Thank you for compliment! I love the idea of cleaning the poop out. I’ve been thinking about how to go about it. I’ve seen where some people hang something under the roost, but I don’t think my coop lends itself to that. I think I’ll pick up a kitty litter scoop this week and see if that works. Thanks for the suggestion!!

My new coop doesn’t work with boards either. I find if I have a layer of shavings where they poo onto it’s a lot easier and faster to clean Because usually it doesn’t stick onto the floor. Every once in a while I’ll need to use a damp paper towel to clean up a spot but only rarely.

 

[equustears]

One suggestion : I used a tarp instead of poop board . I used cup hooks on the front of the perch board and on the wall behind the hens . I draped it to catch the poops . It’s easily removed , cleaned and rehung. It also works as a draft break on the wall for roosting hens . You can fold the tarp and hand stitch it to size so it doesn’t cover nest boxes and you still have use of the eyes for the hooks

 

[LizzzK]

Hi. This is my first time owning chickens. We built a coop this summer. Now that it is getting into the 50's here in Maine, I am starting to become concerned for winter. I know there are a lot of posts concerning this - but I was hoping to get more specific help concerning my coop. After all my research, I don't intend on heating my coop. We have a lot of power outages here and I just don't think it's a good idea for my situation. I also have a covered, attached run that I plan on wrapping in plastic to keep the snow out and to help protect against wind so they can spend time outside this winter. I also thought that would help with the coop as well.

My coop is 4'X8'. It has 4" ventilation running along the entire top of both 8' sides - right under the roof. On top of that I have two windows on the 4' walls. These windows, unfortunately are at roost level. I didn't consider this when I was building and designing our coop in the heat of the summer. I was thinking I would put plastic over those windows - They also have shutters that close - but I didn't know if the extra ventilation would be good during the day and if I should try and put curtains instead so they are not permanently blocked. I also have a big window in the front, but it is just glass for light - no ventilation.

The coop is just built out of panel siding that is .35" and it has metal roofing. Do I need to insulate it? Right now at midnight - it is 50 degrees outside and it is 50 degrees in the coop. So no difference between outside temperature and that of the coop. I have 10 chickens in there, btw. Well, 2 of them are Polish - so more like 8 1/2. I have a lot of cardboard boxes in the basement - would putting those up against the walls help? Do I need to cover them so the chickens don't eat them?

Aside from wondering if I should insulate - I am also concerned about condensation on the metal roof. I intend on doing deep litter (at least I think that is what it is called - where you just keep adding more bedding when you notice a smell). I have researched that doing that during the winter using hay/straw will help to insulate and keep the coop more warm. But I don't want it to get wet from condensation drops from the ceiling.

Summary:

- what should I do about the windows next to the roosts?
- what should I do about the metal roof?
- Do I need insulation?
- Do I have enough ventilation without the windows - do I have too much - should I stuff rags in some of the soffit ventilation?

Thank you for your time and help. I really appreciate it.

I live in Colorado. I insulated my coop, ceiling, walls and floor. Yes you have to put protection over the insulation except where it is out of reach, such as the ceiling. I used thin wall board to protect the insulation. I forgot the correct name but it is sold in big sheets, white on one side, and about 1/8-inch thick. I would put a baffle in front of those vents below the ceiling. Some of my ventilation comes in through the under the eaves and up through the "attic". Don't leave the door open except when the chickens are out in the yard. I have 3 chickens in about the same size coop. I use the deep litter method.

 

[630857]

I thought it was best to have ventilation above only in the winter. Hence, would it be better to close the pop door at night?

 

[630857]

I live in Colorado. I insulated my coop, ceiling, walls and floor. Yes you have to put protection over the insulation except where it is out of reach, such as the ceiling. I used thin wall board to protect the insulation. I forgot the correct name but it is sold in big sheets, white on one side, and about 1/8-inch thick. I would put a baffle in front of those vents below the ceiling. Some of my ventilation comes in through the under the eaves and up through the "attic". Don't leave the door open except when the chickens are out in the yard. I have 3 chickens in about the same size coop. I use the deep litter method.

Luan board?

 

[630857]

Hopped in to answer this with the experience of others in cooler climates (not for me!), but @DobieLover and @3KillerBs have already offered excellent advice, while @RoyalChick has described the importance of ventilation in keeping the coop temp closely balanced with the outside, thus avoiding condensation issues.

So I'll add only that BYC has posters raising chickens with no heat in Alaska, Canada, and the like at true temps of -30F, sometimes worse. WHat we humans consider cold, and what our down jacket wearing chickens consider cold, are two radically different things.

Also, good looking build!

I am interested in temps where chickens are comfortable vs what they can tolerate. What are your thoughts on temps for bantam roosters?

 

[MaggieRose2001]

In case anyone still reads this thread - for the last few weeks I have been following

My new coop doesn’t work with boards either. I find if I have a layer of shavings where they poo onto it’s a lot easier and faster to clean Because usually it doesn’t stick onto the floor. Every once in a while I’ll need to use a damp paper towel to clean up a spot but only rarely.

I just wanted to say thank you for the suggestion. For the past few weeks I have been picking up the poop in my coop. I LOVE IT! The coop stays clean, their feet stay clean, the humidity stays low. I lose a little bit of hay along with the coop, but since my coop is always clean my bedding never smells and I don’t need to replace it.

I didn’t do the litter scoop. I just use a cheap blue glove on one hand and pick it up and throw it away. I can reuse the glove multiple times.

This has been a game changer for me. So thank you. Now all I need to do is figure out how to do that in the run - but I doubt it.