NEWBIE on hatching eggs - questions on lockdown

[AmyLynn2374]

Hi, I have been lurking around for the past couple of weeks. I started incubation of 48 eggs on Sunday evening, 4/9/17.  It is an older still air incubator, it didn't even come with a temp or humidity gauge. I bought a thermometer that lays on top of the eggs (and verified its accuracy with other thermometers). I also bought a reptile humidity gauge (and verified it's accuracy with and electronic humidity monitor we had). Out of those 48,  we have 38 definite ones with chicks! 

Humidity has been around 40-45%. I haven't added any water, we are keeping it in our basement.

1.  As incubation goes by....do the chickens put off more heat? It seems like I am constantly having to turn down the temp everytime I go to turn (I am turning 3 times a day). Sometimes it will sneak up to 102, I am trying to keep it right around 100. I am worried about about this!

2. I am doing my last turn tonight and will go on lockdown. I have read anywhere from increasing the humidity to 65-80%.  Recommended? The only way I can get water in there without opening it  is too add it through a small vent hole. Is there a humidity percentage that is too high that I need to open up other vent holes??

3. Temperature - My temperature gauge is the type that sits on top of the eggs that has the plastic backing. I want to keep monitoring this temp but if those eggs hatch first I won't be able too. I do have some fake ceramic eggs (we used it for some chickens we had bought that had problems pecking at their eggs, fake eggs immediately stopped it!). Since these fake ones are the same size....could i put the gauge on top of those or will it not work because they are ceramic and not the real thing?

4.  I would like to put something down on the metal grid to catch all the little shell pieces, I read somewhere to use cheesecloth but I was worried about their little feet getting stuck on it and wrapping them up so I was going to put the cheese cloth under the metal grid. Or could I just use paper towels?

Thanks!!

First, still air incubators need to be 101-102F with the temps taken at the tops of the eggs. If it has been running on average of 100F, don't be surprised if the hatch is slightly delayed. Yes, the closer you get to lock down the more heat the chicks put off themselves. Heat will also rise if humidity drops. People who have thermostat controlled bators don't see this because the bator adjusts. Those of us without digital control have to adjust for this ourselves.

Yes hatch humidity needs to be at least 65%. I am a hands on hatcher, I use 75% it often shoots up to 80+ during hatch. Hatch humidity does not compromise the hatch unless it is too low and allows the membranes of pipped chicks to dry out. Chicks drown if the incubation humidity (over the first 17 days) is too high preventing the egg from loosing enough moisture and not allowing the air cell to grow. However, you don't want to see condensation on the inside of the bator. If you are going to be hands off and not open the bator at hatch you can easily use 65%.

You can lay the thermometer on the screen at lockdown. Yes, it will reflect a slight difference, but many people opt to lower temps a degree or two at hatch, in your case, I would not.

I use the rubber shelf liner available at most dollar stores on my grate. It cushions the eggs and provides a good footing for new chicks. I've used it for almost three years and highly recommend it. I'll add a pic for reference.

I will post in that thread...I also just read that someone put their eggs in cartons during lockdown to keep the air sacs upward because they were small?

Yes, if you have significantly small air cells, hatching upright in cutdown cartons is best. It helps prevent excess fluids from traveling into the internal pip where the chick can aspirate on it, as well as generally keeping it away from the beak at hatch. The cartons should be the cardboard not styrofoam and should have a circle cut out of each individual cup where the egg sits to allow for air circulation. If you find you are having trouble once hatch starts, feel free to join us on the hands on hatching and help thread, or at anytime.

and good luck on your hatch

 

[AmyLynn2374]

And I HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing vent plugs at lockdown. Those babies need fresh air. Yes the open vents will mean more moisture be added to raise humidity for hatch. I use wet sponges and just pull out a sponge and wet as needed. I don't even use my vent plugs. I never have my vents close. I adjust for temps and humidity day one with them open.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

First, still air incubators need to be 101-102F with the temps taken at the tops of the eggs. If it has been running on average of 100F, don't be surprised if the hatch is slightly delayed. Yes, the closer you get to lock down the more heat the chicks put off themselves. Heat will also rise if humidity drops. People who have thermostat controlled bators don't see this because the bator adjusts. Those of us without digital control have to adjust for this ourselves.

Yes hatch humidity needs to be at least 65%. I am a hands on hatcher, I use 75% it often shoots up to 80+ during hatch. Hatch humidity does not compromise the hatch unless it is too low and allows the membranes of pipped chicks to dry out. Chicks drown if the incubation humidity (over the first 17 days) is too high preventing the egg from loosing enough moisture and not allowing the air cell to grow. However, you don't want to see condensation on the inside of the bator. If you are going to be hands off and not open the bator at hatch you can easily use 65%.

You can lay the thermometer on the screen at lockdown. Yes, it will reflect a slight difference, but many people opt to lower temps a degree or two at hatch, in your case, I would not.

I use the rubber shelf liner available at most dollar stores on my grate. It cushions the eggs and provides a good footing for new chicks. I've used it for almost three years and highly recommend it. I'll add a pic for reference.


Yes, if you have significantly small air cells, hatching upright in cutdown cartons is best. It helps prevent excess fluids from traveling into the internal pip where the chick can aspirate on it, as well as generally keeping it away from the beak at hatch. The cartons should be the cardboard not styrofoam and should have a circle cut out of each individual cup where the egg sits to allow for air circulation. If you find you are having trouble once hatch starts, feel free to join us on the hands on hatching and help thread, or at anytime.

and good luck on your hatch

I will be moving to the same kind of mat you are using. The paper towel was just a little too smooth and allowed their legs to slide a bit.

Can you tell me what hands on hatcher means to you? You have provided some good information!

 

[AmyLynn2374]

I will be moving to the same kind of mat you are using. The paper towel was just a little too smooth and allowed their legs to slide a bit.

Can you tell me what hands on hatcher means to you? You have provided some good information!

Hands on hatching means I don't fall for the crap opening your bator will kill or eggs or experiencing your hatch through candling is a bad thing...lol Seriously though, people are different levels of hands on. I happen to be really hands on. I candle regularly, basically daily. Because I love seeing the progress and I monitor air cells to adjust humidity. I run about 30-35% humidity, but I want to make sure I don't get air cells progressing too much too quick. Silkie eggs I run slightly higher. Come lockdown I open the bator. I do candle, cause I can't help it, I have control issues and need to know when they internally pip...lol At hatch I remove shells. My incubator NEVER smells nasty. Even during staggered hatches because I keep it cleaned out. Once the hatched chicks are up and running as long as there's two in the beginning, I move them to the brooder and if my pipped eggs hit the 24 hour mark without progressing I start an assist. That's my "hands on" profile.

Generally, if you candle more than the normal 7/14/18 days, you open the incubator during hatch, remove chicks "early" and are willing to assist, you're hands on.

I love the shelf liner. It's awesome on the eggs and chicks legs and makes it sooo much easier to clean.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Hands on hatching means I don't fall for the crap opening your bator will kill or eggs or experiencing your hatch through candling is a bad thing...lol Seriously though, people are different levels of hands on. I happen to be really hands on. I candle regularly, basically daily. Because I love seeing the progress and I monitor air cells to adjust humidity. I run about 30-35% humidity, but I want to make sure I don't get air cells progressing too much too quick. Silkie eggs I run slightly higher. Come lockdown I open the bator. I do candle, cause I can't help it, I have control issues and need to know when they internally pip...lol At hatch I remove shells. My incubator NEVER smells nasty. Even during staggered hatches because I keep it cleaned out. Once the hatched chicks are up and running as long as there's two in the beginning, I move them to the brooder and if my pipped eggs hit the 24 hour mark without progressing I start an assist. That's my "hands on" profile.

Generally, if you candle more than the normal 7/14/18 days, you open the incubator during hatch, remove chicks "early" and are willing to assist, you're hands on.

I love the shelf liner. It's awesome on the eggs and chicks legs and makes it sooo much easier to clean.

How many of us have control issues?!

Thank you for sharing!

 

[vdrsolo]

Be careful about cartons as they can restrict air flow.

You are at the right place (BYC) to get tons of information!

Hope to see some chick pics!

Happy hatching.

I kept them on the grid but just put some smooth top shelf liner down on top of the grid, is that ok? or will that hurt air flow? It's the type that does not have holes in it but I wanted to keep the shell mess to a minimum....should I probably put it under the grid to catch the shells instead??

 

[vdrsolo]

First, still air incubators need to be 101-102F with the temps taken at the tops of the eggs. If it has been running on average of 100F, don't be surprised if the hatch is slightly delayed. Yes, the closer you get to lock down the more heat the chicks put off themselves. Heat will also rise if humidity drops. People who have thermostat controlled bators don't see this because the bator adjusts. Those of us without digital control have to adjust for this ourselves.

Yes hatch humidity needs to be at least 65%. I am a hands on hatcher, I use 75% it often shoots up to 80+ during hatch. Hatch humidity does not compromise the hatch unless it is too low and allows the membranes of pipped chicks to dry out. Chicks drown if the incubation humidity (over the first 17 days) is too high preventing the egg from loosing enough moisture and not allowing the air cell to grow. However, you don't want to see condensation on the inside of the bator. If you are going to be hands off and not open the bator at hatch you can easily use 65%.

You can lay the thermometer on the screen at lockdown. Yes, it will reflect a slight difference, but many people opt to lower temps a degree or two at hatch, in your case, I would not.

I use the rubber shelf liner available at most dollar stores on my grate. It cushions the eggs and provides a good footing for new chicks. I've used it for almost three years and highly recommend it. I'll add a pic for reference.


Yes, if you have significantly small air cells, hatching upright in cutdown cartons is best. It helps prevent excess fluids from traveling into the internal pip where the chick can aspirate on it, as well as generally keeping it away from the beak at hatch. The cartons should be the cardboard not styrofoam and should have a circle cut out of each individual cup where the egg sits to allow for air circulation. If you find you are having trouble once hatch starts, feel free to join us on the hands on hatching and help thread, or at anytime.

and good luck on your hatch

Ok....I got some shelf liner and put it down, but I bought the type that was smooth with no air holes (I am borrowing the incubator so I am trying to minimize the mess), I put it on type of the grid, will the solid type compromise any air flow??

Also confused..some people say that even though their air sac looks small they do fine..some say not to use egg cartons because of bad air flow, I am so confused!!

Also, I would say the average temp has been at around 101 - 102. the person who let me borrow it said the keep it between 100-101 but it seems like everytime I check it its at 102! so I slightly turn it down some. I have been turning it down little by little the whole time, good to know that 102 is not bad. I was trying to get it around 100 but I don't think it every stabilized there.

I will be making my last turn tonight, I already have a dry sponge in place right under a vent hole that I can use to add moisture too.

 

[vdrsolo]

And I HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing vent plugs at lockdown. Those babies need fresh air. Yes the open vents will mean more moisture be added to raise humidity for hatch. I use wet sponges and just pull out a sponge and wet as needed. I don't even use my vent plugs. I never have my vents close. I adjust for temps and humidity day one with them open.

so go ahead and open them up at lockdown? then get my humidity up to 65%
I may be up all night getting my humidity right! I bought brand new sponges for this purpose and have already cut them so I can adjust as needed.

 

[vdrsolo]

Hands on hatching means I don't fall for the crap opening your bator will kill or eggs or experiencing your hatch through candling is a bad thing...lol Seriously though, people are different levels of hands on. I happen to be really hands on. I candle regularly, basically daily. Because I love seeing the progress and I monitor air cells to adjust humidity. I run about 30-35% humidity, but I want to make sure I don't get air cells progressing too much too quick. Silkie eggs I run slightly higher. Come lockdown I open the bator. I do candle, cause I can't help it, I have control issues and need to know when they internally pip...lol At hatch I remove shells. My incubator NEVER smells nasty. Even during staggered hatches because I keep it cleaned out. Once the hatched chicks are up and running as long as there's two in the beginning, I move them to the brooder and if my pipped eggs hit the 24 hour mark without progressing I start an assist. That's my "hands on" profile.

Generally, if you candle more than the normal 7/14/18 days, you open the incubator during hatch, remove chicks "early" and are willing to assist, you're hands on.

I love the shelf liner. It's awesome on the eggs and chicks legs and makes it sooo much easier to clean.

I think I would consider myself a hands on hatcher....being new to this I candled alot! I loved watching the progress.

 

[AmyLynn2374]

I kept them on the grid but just put some smooth top shelf liner down on top of the grid, is that ok? or will that hurt air flow? It's the type that does not have holes in it but I wanted to keep the shell mess to a minimum....should  I probably put it under the grid to catch the shells instead??

You really want a mesh rubber liner, one with holes for humidity from water wells to circulate the bator. The kind I use keeps the mess down. You will have tiny pieces of shell finding their way to the water wells, but it's easy to clean out.

Ok....I got some shelf liner and put it down, but I bought the type that was smooth with no air holes (I am borrowing the incubator so I am trying to minimize the mess), I put it on type of the grid, will the solid type compromise any air flow??

Also confused..some people say that even though their air sac looks small they do fine..some say not to use egg cartons because of bad air flow, I am so confused!! 

Also, I would say the average temp has been at around 101 - 102. the person who let me borrow it said the keep it between 100-101 but it seems like everytime I check it its at 102! so I slightly turn it down some. I have been turning it down little by little the whole time, good to know that 102 is not bad. I was trying to get it around 100 but I don't think it every stabilized there.

I will be making my last turn tonight, I already have a dry sponge in place right under a vent hole that I can use to add moisture too. 

Sometimes chicks do ok with smaller cells because after lock down the air cell does draw down significantly. If it draws down enough it will compensate for smaller cells. Smaller cells doesn't mean they won't hatch but there is a higher the risk of drowning at hatch time. Hatching upright can give them a better chance. As for hatching in cartons....many people hatch upright in cartons as part of their normal hatch method. If you cut down the cartons like I explained, they are fine. If you aren't comfortable hatching upright, lay them down. 90% of hatching advice will get you differing opinions. People all do things differently, you find what your comfortable with and what works for you. There are very few certainties in hatching. 2 of those is temps and that they egg has got to loose enough moisture. How it's done doesn't matter, just that it happens.