Next spring shed to coop design

[Alaskan]

When extending this run should I scrap all the existing fencing and just use new?

I would hate to waste material. Maybe use the existing run as a less secure daytime run, that connects to a super secure run and the new coop.

I was thinking the same thing about the roof extension and my run structure. With how much snow we get I can see it caving in.

If you get gobs of wet/heavy snow...

In snow country the roof either needs to shed snow fast or be super strong.

So either beef up the roof supports, as well as the verticals that hold the roof up... or make it way steeper.

The same goes for your run.

Run wire or run roof needs to either shed snow fast, or be very strong.

I had planned on adding ventilation, since I know that’s a problem with sheds, to the gables as suggested.

eh....

1. If you have lots of wind it is nicer if all ventilation is on one side only so the gusting wind doesn't blow in snow. But, a cross breeze is great come summer. So if you put vents in both gables, maybe figure out a winter cover for 1 of them.

2. Gable vents need nice sized eves, or rain and snow blows in.

I’m not sure what you mean by skids

just 2 nice hefty beams that are flat on the ground. The building sits on (and is attached to) those 2 beams. Then if for whatever reason you ever want to move it a tractor can just drag it from one spot to another.

The skids are a bit like skis for a building.

All of the wildlife here is why I want to elevate the shed.

Actually.... I was thinking you wanted to elevate the shed so it would be easier to access in the winter.... I hate extra shoveling.

A raised shed creates a great location for all wildlife to hide, den up... etc.

You CAN keep the wildlife out, but that means you need to wire that area closed.

Some people raise the coop enough, wire the perimeter and then include the under shed area as part of the chicken run. However, if you do that with a decent sized shed, you will be cursing every time a chicken tries to hide there, go broody there... or just lay eggs there.

My one raised up and on skids coop is wired around the base, no chicken or predator access.

 

[Ruby Rogue]

With all the modifications you plan to do, would something like this be a good option for you? I considered these on wayfair before deciding to start from scratch. They come in different sizes. (The prices are in Canadian dollars.)

 

[Ted Brown]

Your post has garnered some good responses, BYC is a great site where folks will provide advice based on their experience specific to what you are trying to do.

Your difficulty will be deciding how to proceed. While @Shezadandy makes excellent points the extent of modifications suggested would make me start from scratch rather than buy a kit. However, only you and your husband can decide what is within your skill set, consequently how you want to proceed and how much you want to spend (eg the floor structure with mats that s/he shows would probably cost close to what the shed you are looking at does). As examples making the roof steeper or adding overhangs are excellent suggestions but will essentially cause you to throw away the roof that is provided; if you attempt this start from scratch as building walls is a very simple thing.

Some basic cautions:

1. Any wood that is in or touches the ground MUST be pressure treated.
2. Encasing ANY wood in concrete will subject it to wicking of moisture that will cause deterioration much sooner than rated life; using 3/4" crushed stone is effective, avoids this problem and is easier.
3. Using concrete patio blocks (particularly given that your yard is on slate) would be preferable IMHO BUT @Alaskan 's suggestion to use skids is much less effort, cost and will work.
4. Obviously check with Lowe's as to whether the floor is included.
5. The comments on floor protection are extremely valid. I used BlackJack 57 on my floors and 12" up the walls. This is a roof coating product, cost is about $50 for 5 gallons enough to allow two coats, will seal whatever wood product you use and give many years of service. Lots of references on this site, @blackdog043 is well versed in it's use.
6. Research drop boards and deep bedding (not deep litter method) it will make your and chicken's life much better!
7. Given your comments about local wildlife I would go overboard on predator protections, sounds like you already know that and how to go about it.
8. KEEP IT SIMPLE and within your capabilities.
9. As stated, wet snow is extremely heavy and will take your shed down if it is not built very well. The shed you show does not qualify IMHO, will need to be re-enforced but can be modified as I described above to work.

 

[Shezadandy]

Your post has garnered some good responses, BYC is a great site where folks will provide advice based on their experience specific to what you are trying to do.

Your difficulty will be deciding how to proceed. While @Shezadandy makes excellent points the extent of modifications suggested would make me start from scratch rather than buy a kit. However, only you and your husband can decide what is within your skill set, consequently how you want to proceed and how much you want to spend (eg the floor structure with mats that s/he shows would probably cost close to what the shed you are looking at does).

Costs of stall mats:

4x6 ft stall mats cost around $43 retail, not on sale
4x8 ft stall mats cost around $60 retail, not on sale

Checking local farm stores in your area (and watching for sales) is a good way to find out what they cost in your area. Often around here they're on sale for $35 for the 4x6ft, or buy 3 get 1 free.

If you're doing an 8x10ft building, that would be 2 4x6 stall mats ($86) laid side by side, with 1 4x8ft stall mat ($60) for a total of $146.00 -- again, check your local farm supply stores.

Here are the instructions for the shed indicated by the OP:

8x10-Belmont-Shed-Instructions.pdf (heartlandind.com)

The floor panels (decking) are not included.

The cost difference between 1/2" and 23/32" (nominally 3/4) OSB tongue and groove plywood is about $12 more per 4x8ft sheet for the floor, and as you'd be using 3 sheets-- and would have to buy the "floor deck" (the plywood) separately in most kits, that's a $36 difference in something you have to buy separately anyway in most cases.

Adding 4 more pressure treated boards to your floor frame to add support (included, based on instructions) would be around $40.

Personally, I also buy the full length of the building for the long side- so instead of using the 2 sections they'll send for the 10ft side of your building, I would go get a single 10ft board to replace it. That's just me.

I have to say there is a GIANT uptick in lumber costs. I've never seen the cost of a 2x4 DOUBLE before- but it has- everything lumber related has just increased by the largest margins I've EVER seen. EVER. OMG!!

For the OP, see if you have any "rebuilding" centers near you - i.e. where builders drop off their extras left over from job sites - or people dismantle unwanted structures and donate the lumber, and windows and fixtures, doors- that kind of thing - to defray costs, which they do in order to avoid the fees of disposal at the dump.

These major cost changes in lumber supplies make quite a case for sticking with a kit and beefing it up.

This is what happens to cheap sheds that are built badly. No, this is NOT a joke. This is the cheap piece of $h*t shed I had to tear down on our last property- the floor frame had mending plates in the middle, probably to make it fit in some box. Please, PLEASE don't end up with something like this heap of crap. Clearly whoever built this could have done a better job, especially with the foundation. Everything was crumbling inside and out. I was able to salvage the rafters for the new building. Everything else (except the concrete pier blocks) went to the dump.

Doesn't look SO bad, right?

The siding:

 

[Ted Brown]

@Shezadandy makes some good points, the critical ones being to verify that the materials used in any kit you buy are to code and structurally sound.

There are many ways to proceed. I live in the country and today can buy rough cut 1" pine lumber for $1 per board foot (1" by 1'by 1'). I built a 10' by 16' coop Woods KD style for ~$1000 (see "My Coop"). I scrounged tin for the roof, cost me nothing. I built it as a kit that can be easily dismantled should I ever want to.

You have some months before Spring and, if you have spare time, could probably find enough materials to construct what you want or perhaps even find a suitable coop that someone no longer wants.

 

[aart]

One thing that most prefab shed lack, that I think is important for an coop and especially vital for cold weather coops, is a good big roof overhangs.
Open soffits add weather proof ventilation and some shade.

 

[Shezadandy]

@Shezadandy makes some good points, the critical ones being to verify that the materials used in any kit you buy are to code and structurally sound.

There are many ways to proceed. I live in the country and today can buy rough cut 1" pine lumber for $1 per board foot (1" by 1'by 1'). I built a 10' by 16' coop Woods KD style for ~$1000 (see "My Coop"). I scrounged tin for the roof, cost me nothing. I built it as a kit that can be easily dismantled should I ever want to.

You have some months before Spring and, if you have spare time, could probably find enough materials to construct what you want or perhaps even find a suitable coop that someone no longer wants.

Yes, the point I'm trying to make is some of these kits will have shortcomings. If you can spot them and design around them, adding extra boards to the floor frame, using thicker floor decking, extending the eves, using a ridge vent - it can be a very successful build.

This is our version of Handy Home Products Majestic 8 ft. x 12 ft. Wood Storage Shed-18631-8 - The Home Depot which was built for the goats within a chain link pen- so the side door we installed along with the front doors could be left open for ventilation. Protecting chickens, of course, requires a great deal more care.

Brand new in 2013:

2019 after being lived in by 2 giant rough and tumble goats: (after repainting the goat door side before selling):

 

[blackdog043]

Here's my article on black jack 57 that @Ted Brown mentioned in his post. It's good stuff to use IMO. If I had to build another coop with a floor, I would use it again. I cleaned my coop out a month ago and it shows no sign of wear. It's about 4 years old.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/black-jack-rubr-coat-57-for-your-coop-floor.75145/