North Carolina

All of these problems that Dutchbunny is having is making me a little scared to even go to Carolina ChickenStock this weekend.

What do y'all suggest about looking for birds to add to a flock at an event like this? Would you suggest not buying anything at all? What precautions should I take? Should I only buy from certain people? What should I look for?

I'm just trying to learn from Dutchbunny's situation so it won't happen to my flock. I'm so sorry for what you are having to go through.

Thanks in advance for you suggestions!

Carol Ann
and her beginner flock of Silver Laced Cochins :)
look the birds over really well before you buy! Ask to hold the bird and see if it feels underweight for its breed/age, look at its legs, eyes and nose really well. If you buy any bird (whether its chicks or adults) put them in qt when you get home and leave them there for a month. If you buy from different people, have different qt set up just in-case one comes up sick but not the rest. Feed and mess with all new birds last, than wash up good. With most of this CRD stuff, NPIP doesn't test for, so buying only NPIP doesn't help in this area. Just be careful and have a place(s) already setup before you go. And have FUN meeting everyone and seeing all the eye candy
big_smile.png
 
Everytime I buy new adult birds the go in quarantine. I worm and use duramyacin in the water regardless how good they look. Even if I take birds to a flock swap and don't sell them all and have to bring them home they get quarantined. I'm wierd but our birds get baths once a month or so (my GF thinks they look better?) There's just a bunch of unknowns when getting new birds.....just my 2 cents tho
good advice!
 
Have trimmed, no mites(killed those suckers!!!) and yes I have seen them in action. Could it be possbile my Orp roo is too big for my girls? He is a big guy. I have also have bought eggs from others and put in my bator and still no luck. I have 5 broodies right now....WISH I had eggs for them.
hmm.png
have you checked the egg for the bullseye before it goes into the bator? if not try cracking and egg and looking for the bullseye (white spot with white ring around it on yolk) If your eggs have this, than they are fertilized. Because from the sounds of it, it might be your bator
 
have you checked the egg for the bullseye before it goes into the bator? if not try cracking and egg and looking for the bullseye (white spot with white ring around it on yolk) If your eggs have this, than they are fertilized. Because from the sounds of it, it might be your bator
Awesome, I was curious how you knew if eggs were fertile.
So every time when I crack and egg for breakfast and there's a white ring around the yolk it's fertile?
My only roo is a little silkie and while no one is laying right now, I'm kinda curious if he can get the job done since the girls all seem to just run away from him.
 
Dutchbunny, forget the dura-crap or any other soluable. You need a fast acting injectable antibiotic. I would go with Tylan 50. 1 CC per bird per day for 4 days for Large fowl. Most feed stores carry it, but not all TSCs. Obviously you will also need syringes. Cheaper at a pharmacy then a feed store. You just have to ask for them. 22-25 gauge needles work well.

I inject just under the skin on the upper back. Some use the breast muscle for a deep injection, but I find that the under skin is just as effective and easier on the bird.

If a bird does not show improvement within 48 hours I would cull it.

Matt
 
Dutchbunny, forget the dura-crap or any other soluable. You need a fast acting injectable antibiotic. I would go with Tylan 50. 1 CC per bird per day for 4 days for Large fowl. Most feed stores carry it, but not all TSCs. Obviously you will also need syringes. Cheaper at a pharmacy then a feed store. You just have to ask for them. 22-25 gauge needles work well.

I inject just under the skin on the upper back. Some use the breast muscle for a deep injection, but I find that the under skin is just as effective and easier on the bird.

If a bird does not show improvement within 48 hours I would cull it.

Matt
Okay, thank you so much for the help.
There are 2 out of the flock that I would never be able to cull as they are my babies, I am super super close to them like one would be a dog or "normal pet".
On my second trip, TSC gave me Duramycin 72-200 Injectible which is 200mg/ml of Oxytetracycline, but they failed to mention the syringes so as soon as my toddler gets up I need to make a third trip there.
Do you think I should go with the stronger duramycin injectible or skip that too (obviously the soluble in water is worthless because next to no one is drinking water).
 
Also it's technically for cattle and swine, but the dosing chart says for a 5lb animal (my birds are about 5lbs) to inject .2 cc into the muscle or neck once a day, no more than 4 days straight...
 
HELP................!!!!!.....I am getting my new coop varmit proofed before I move my girls in. However, my source of girls was raided by coyotes and they don't have any chickens for me. I live outside of Rocky Mount.  Does anyone know where I can get some young girls? I just need 4 right now. Starting with a small coop until I have the expertise for more!!


How far are you from Wake Forest? I go to little birdie hatchery. I have five beautiful birds.
 
I'm getting a six week old chick on May 25th I currently have five 9 week old chicks. I am getting this new chick from the same hatchery, do I need to quarantine the new chick still? My husband doesn't want any more babies in the house:(
 
IT'S WAY WORSE THAN I THOUGHT! I got Duramycin for CRD, but I am thinking it's Coryza because one chicken has bubbles on her eyes. I went through and did a closer look and as the morning progesses I only have FOUR chickens WITHOUT symptoms! It's clear that it came from the 2 golden comets I got at WCA and this is going to be the hardest life lesson I've ever learned on quaranting! The two comets are in bad shape, eyes closed, mouths hanging open, combs are very light. They are still in there separate pen with the 2 production reds. The reds are acting fine and have no snot or eye problems, but their combs seem pretty light. I'm afraid to let them out since they've been with the comets the whole time so those 4 are together. Duramycin in the water, but no one drinking and I don't think it helps with Coryza. When/who do I cull? Second issue: All my original chickens besides 4 have symptoms of runny noses. One has little clear bubbles in her eye which is what made me think Coryza, but she's still running around eating and clucking. My original chickens (including the one with the eye) and all with the runny nose are in their pen with the duramycin in their water. The four with no symptoms currently are out running the back yard because I don't know what to do with them. They have a separate water container in the yard and I put a little duramycin in it just to be sure. My original chicken I posted about this morning isn't looking any better and she's in my bathtub. I gave her some duramycin via eye dropper so hoping I see an improvement but if it's coryza don't know that I will. Calling vet school you posted about now. QUESTIONS: How do I know which to cull and I don't want to do it if I don't have to (By the way there are 2 out of the entire flock that I won't cull) What is the treatment for Coryza? Do I have the birds separated correctly? Thank you in advance for any help. I've been keeping chickens for about 6 months now and I'm learning a lot of things the hard way. I really appreciate everyone's knowledge, always living in the city I know next to nothing about farming/livestock.
You might want to look up MG, too. Mycoplasma gallisepticum. Your comments about bubbly eyes and runny noses brings back memories of last fall when I lost my whole flock of over100 birds to it. And after that, I set up a much better quarantine pen, in a pasture the others don't access. Complete with shoe change, lab coat, and gloves, and straight to the shower afterwards. It's not perfect, but it is better. It won't get used often.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom