Either way can work. My coops are insulated. 3/4 inch Blue Dow Styrofoam. Then 1/4 inch plywood or luen over it so they don't peck at it. But as others have said, good ventilation is so important. MY birds did just fine last winter here in Michigan.
Notherners, do you insulate your coops?
- Thread starter mr.hutch23
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This is my 1st season with chickens, and they are now 8 weeks. Maybe I am naive and will learn better next season, but I have the heat lamp on in the coop still. My coop is actually two spare horse stalls in our barn. The lamp hangs about 18" from the ceiling, so I'm not sure how much heat they are actually getting from it.
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Make sure they have dust baths - the plumage forms air pockets when there is plenty of clean dust present. Deep leaf litter (dry leaves versus hay or a mix of the two) is also important- when they bed down they ca keep one another warm. Most importantly, increase the fat in their diet.
Make sure they have dust baths - the plumage forms air pockets when there is plenty of clean dust present. Deep leaf litter (dry leaves versus hay or a mix of the two) is also important- when they bed down they ca keep one another warm. Most importantly, increase the fat in their diet.
No insulation here in PA. They acclimate to the cold fine. A draft free but well ventilated coop is key. This is my first winter with the new elevated coop so I am sticking with the deep litter method. Right now we're at about 5" with another 3" going in this month.
I am in the process of moving my flocks to the stables for the winter (I'm converting horse stalls to coops).
The building is mostly insulated but not heated, there is a standard wall fan for pulling moist air outside (horses stink!) so I hope it will be all right.
It's not ideal but at least this building has running water all year round and is big enough to give everyone much-needed space, including me!
Flooring is cement with a thick layer of bedding, which is changed every 3 to 4 weeks max.
Heating lamps are on when needed, since the horses go in and out of the barn a few times a day - lots of cold air getting in, not much we can do about that part though.
Here is the first group that went in yesterday!
The building is mostly insulated but not heated, there is a standard wall fan for pulling moist air outside (horses stink!) so I hope it will be all right.
It's not ideal but at least this building has running water all year round and is big enough to give everyone much-needed space, including me!
Flooring is cement with a thick layer of bedding, which is changed every 3 to 4 weeks max.
Heating lamps are on when needed, since the horses go in and out of the barn a few times a day - lots of cold air getting in, not much we can do about that part though.
Here is the first group that went in yesterday!
Good thread for this newb to chickens, and we are building our coop right now....
We were told insulation is not really necessary, but good ventilation is... so with our coop plans we have lots of good ventilation around the roof ridge line. We are going to put some insulation in the walls & ceiling, but aren't going to get carried away with it, and ply wood over the walls, and roof. We can get quite a few weeks here in NH of temp hovering around the zero degree mark, but from others in the area we have been told the chickens can acclimate pretty well to the cold.
Mary
We were told insulation is not really necessary, but good ventilation is... so with our coop plans we have lots of good ventilation around the roof ridge line. We are going to put some insulation in the walls & ceiling, but aren't going to get carried away with it, and ply wood over the walls, and roof. We can get quite a few weeks here in NH of temp hovering around the zero degree mark, but from others in the area we have been told the chickens can acclimate pretty well to the cold.
Mary
- Jul 6, 2010
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When I first built my coop one side was going to be for chickens the other for storage so I insulated the chicken side (walls and ceiling). Chicken math being what it is the last 10 winters I have had to have more room so I removed the door between the two rooms and the chickens are now occupying both sides. The noninsulated side, which is the northern side of the building, has just cardboard stapled to the rafters to keep the birds from getting above the ceiling on the other side, a single window and the entry door. I haven't noticed a bit of difference in where the birds hang out--both sides have nests, a roost, feeder and waterer--nor have I had any problems with the birds. I have noticed that the waterer on the north side will freeze when it gets down to 20 below even though it, like the south side one, has a galvanized heater under it. The coop is well ventilate by lowering the upper windows to about 3 inches on all four sides. So I guess it really doesn't make any difference.
Only Roof and Northern/West wall insulation. North pop door at all times is open but constructed with a nice wind break. A 150 Watt heater is inside the coup. Perfect to moderate temps during cold sub zero nights!!
John
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Well if it is properly ventilated (which it looks to be) and uninsulated and it's still only early November, you would not EXPECT much of any difference in temperatures.
The indoor-outdoor difference will increase as nighttime temps get colder. Really really. Although with your vents at the absolute top and no insulation and being a small coop with very little thermal mass, you may not see *much* difference.
But, you're in Maryland, yes? Even if you are in the western part of the state, it is not like it gets so cold. Honestly I don't think it's likely to be a big concern, certainly not on a routine basis.
Well if it is properly ventilated (which it looks to be) and uninsulated and it's still only early November, you would not EXPECT much of any difference in temperatures.
The indoor-outdoor difference will increase as nighttime temps get colder. Really really. Although with your vents at the absolute top and no insulation and being a small coop with very little thermal mass, you may not see *much* difference.
But, you're in Maryland, yes? Even if you are in the western part of the state, it is not like it gets so cold. Honestly I don't think it's likely to be a big concern, certainly not on a routine basis.
Also, the coop came with and only has room for one roost that is a 2x2....I could modify it if need be...do I need to?
It would not hurt to make it a 2x4 (wide side up), if you are feeling sorry for your chickens outdoors in the great big wintertime
-- although honestly they are probably not going to have a *problem* with the 2x2 if you leave it there. I am not entirely clear on where the roost is, it isn't right below those topmost vents is it? (which you would not want)
It would not hurt to make it a 2x4 (wide side up), if you are feeling sorry for your chickens outdoors in the great big wintertime
I wraped the run with the 6 inches at the top for vent. so I'm good there.
Just keep an eye on that. It may or may not be enough to prevent the run from getting humid, and if the run gets humid it tends to make the coop somewhat humid too. If you find yourself getting lots of frost on the inside of the run plastic (not just a little, but I mean, a substantial layer) then you would want to open up more of it.
Really, most breeds of chickens, if well-kept, should have no trouble with Maryland
GOod luck, have fun,
Pat
Just keep an eye on that. It may or may not be enough to prevent the run from getting humid, and if the run gets humid it tends to make the coop somewhat humid too. If you find yourself getting lots of frost on the inside of the run plastic (not just a little, but I mean, a substantial layer) then you would want to open up more of it.
Really, most breeds of chickens, if well-kept, should have no trouble with Maryland
GOod luck, have fun,
Pat
Howdy Neighbor! I just moved to northern NH from VT.
And like you I'm building the winter coop, today actually. Been using one of those plastic kid play houses
One thing I'm keeping in mind is to have 4" or more from the floor before any openings so pine shavings are'nt scrathed out. Going with 3 to 4" bedding, no insulation and several holes drilled in galbles for venting. The nesting box will be attached externally and using a PVC feeder to conserve on space inside the coop. It's to be a 4x4 foot print to fit the back of my existing 8x4 tractor run. Oh, and no windows. Light is provided via timer and 13w energy bulb and the door to run will be open from 6 am to 6 pm every day. After breaking out ice from waterer this morning I'm reminded to get a heated waterer for inside coop too.
I'll post some pics after it's built.
And like you I'm building the winter coop, today actually. Been using one of those plastic kid play houses
One thing I'm keeping in mind is to have 4" or more from the floor before any openings so pine shavings are'nt scrathed out. Going with 3 to 4" bedding, no insulation and several holes drilled in galbles for venting. The nesting box will be attached externally and using a PVC feeder to conserve on space inside the coop. It's to be a 4x4 foot print to fit the back of my existing 8x4 tractor run. Oh, and no windows. Light is provided via timer and 13w energy bulb and the door to run will be open from 6 am to 6 pm every day. After breaking out ice from waterer this morning I'm reminded to get a heated waterer for inside coop too.
I'll post some pics after it's built.
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