NPIP in Louisiana

[theuglychick]

I posted about this in the Louisiana regional thread but haven't gotten a response yet so I figured I'd throw it out here, too.

I'm preparing to go through the NPIP inspection. I'm just looking for tips or advice on from people who have done it before. For some reason I'm nervous, lol. I want it to go smoothly.

I know the process varies from state to state, but any tips or advice on how to make it go well is much appreciated.

What happens if a bird fails? Do you not pass the inspection? It says the bird will be submitted for additional testing... Can you just cull that one bird?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

@campingshaws are you npip?

 

[campingshaws]

I was! Recertification came at a busy time and I let it lapse.

Hi from the LAyers thread. I saw your post but my experience seems to have been different...

I spoke to the state vet ahead of time, asked all my questions about policy and procedures, etc. When my tester showed up he contradicted everything the state vet said, even when he knew my info was from the state vet. He drew blood from about 20 of my birds and decided that was enough (it wasn't). And he didn't explain anything about shipping to me. I had to learn a lot on my own.

Now, here's how my inspection went: he drove up and put covers on his boots. My coop was locked (so I could catch every bird over 3-4mos). He asked where I stored my feed and how I cleaned my coop. Then we drew blood. In LA the basic test for pullorum-typhoid is free. Every other test is a charge. My tester discouraged me from additional testing, saying if I needed to ship to a state with certain requirements, I could do that testing later.

It was very easy and didn't take that long. I held the birds and he drew the blood. He was very friendly, if a little argumentative. I'm sure it was annoying for him to drive to the middle of nowhere and test my teensy flock.

 

[theuglychick]

I was! Recertification came at a busy time and I let it lapse.

Hi from the LAyers thread. I saw your post but my experience seems to have been different...

I spoke to the state vet ahead of time, asked all my questions about policy and procedures, etc. When my tester showed up he contradicted everything the state vet said, even when he knew my info was from the state vet. He drew blood from about 20 of my birds and decided that was enough (it wasn't). And he didn't explain anything about shipping to me. I had to learn a lot on my own.

Now, here's how my inspection went: he drove up and put covers on his boots. My coop was locked (so I could catch every bird over 3-4mos). He asked where I stored my feed and how I cleaned my coop. Then we drew blood. In LA the basic test for pullorum-typhoid is free. Every other test is a charge. My tester discouraged me from additional testing, saying if I needed to ship to a state with certain requirements, I could do that testing later.

It was very easy and didn't take that long. I held the birds and he drew the blood. He was very friendly, if a little argumentative. I'm sure it was annoying for him to drive to the middle of nowhere and test my teensy flock.

Thank you for your response!

My flock is small too. I have less than 15 breeding birds at the time.

I do have some biddies and juveniles that I'm adding but they're all under 4 months. Most were obtained from NPIP breeders or hatcheries. Only a 2 were not.

What is the wait time for testing? As in was there a wait for someone to come out to inspect and test?

I'm thinking of scheduling it so all of my birds are of breeding age, in about 4 months. Then I'll have about 25 breeding birds. Still pretty small.

I'm in contact with a lady at the Louisiana Dept. of Agriculture & Forestry
Poultry Diagnostic Lab
(dont know why that's bold, maybe because I pasted it).

She's been helpful but basically said a certain standard percentage of birds had to test negative for salmonella/pullorum,
And...
"In addition to negative testing of a standard number of birds, enrollment into the NPIP also requires the following:
the participant must operate a clean and sanitary facility, with biosecurity measures in place, such as foot baths and hand washing stations; the participant should enforce limited and protected access by visitors to prevent the introduction and spread of disease;
the participant should limit exposure of the flock to wild or passerine birds where possible;
the participant must purchase birds, eggs, and poults ONLY from other NPIP certified disease-free flocks; the participant must submit any 9-3 forms for reporting sales of any poultry products to the Homer Poultry Lab (PDL) in a timely manner (at least monthly)."

But that doesn't really give me an idea of what is "acceptable".

I keep my coops and runs clean (really clean), but I don't know if it's up to their standards.

I keep feed separate from the chickens stored in a climate controlled building.

I brood my biddies in the brooder in the coop and I'm thinking that might be a no-no, but it's an easy fix as I'm planning to move them into The climate controlled building in a week or so. But that's the building with the food, is that ok?

Then there's the footbath. At first I didn't know why a flock of healthy chickens would need a foot bath but then quickly realized I'm a dummy and the footbath was for people. What would be an acceptable foot bath set up.

Just stuff like that.

As I've said, I've bought from NPIP breeders and I don't remember seeing some of this stuff when visiting.

I'm still reading through the NPIP information, so I'm hoping to find some more answers there.

Thanks again for your information and advice.

 

[campingshaws]

I think you've got it in the bag.

I had to wait a few weeks for a tester because I'm in the middle of nowhere and he needed to have more than one stop to make.

I had a couple birds from NPIP sources but the majority were from auctions, neighbors, or hatched from my own eggs. But once they're tested they're all "NPIP" birds. The state vet said birds from any source were fine as long as I had good biosecurity and effective quarantine. The tester did not agree. So, take that how you will.

Ok, clean and sanitary facility: have good ventilation, and a place for the poop to go. He said "how so you clean this place?" And I said "there's a hatch in the wall, I open the door and shovel out the bedding and compost it in the woods." That was it.

Biosecurity: this was tricky because my main coop is part of a summer camp facility and it's used for education first and foremost. This was nonnegotiable to me. But the coop is built in a way that kids/visitors and see everything (nest boxes and roosts) from a "breezeway," through a window in the front, or on the other side of the fence. So visitors won't be walking on the same ground as the birds. When I go to other places with chickens (farm friends, fairs, etc) I wear shoes that I DO NOT use at my own place. I have a pair of black boots that I wear when I'm buying from NPIP places and I disinfect after each use and I don't wear them anywhere else. The tester suggested that I get disposable booties for guests, but that's not feasible for the 400+ kids/adults we see in the summer. So, no foot bath necessary if you plan to either use booties or not allow visitors, and you have biosecurity protocol for your own footwear/clothing.

And it's totally fine to ask questions! If you have a tub (like you would see for dishes at a restaurant, the square type) and say "I was planning to use this for my footbath but wanted to know what disinfectant you recommend" then your bases are covered.

My svart honas are in my back yard, in an enclosed coop/run, sectioned off from the farm by a privacy fence. They are the only birds I shipped from, and I do not allow visitors into that part of the yard. So, I guess it's splitting the difference. The honas are the ones he only tested a couple.

Feed storage: I keep mind in a big Rubbermaid tote in the breezeway. The main concern is contamination from moisture/mold or pests/rodents. Your setup sounds fine so long as there's a lid and it's all contained. I offered to show the brooder and he said it wasn't necessary. I keep it away from the farm, at my house, so I can check more often.

It was super easy peasy. Much easier than I think it should've been. My tester was pretty lax and didn't bother explaining anything to me about the forms or processes. :/

Let me tag @duluthralphie and see what he can contribute. I know he's much more experienced than I am. He's not in LA, but he follows stricter procedures.

 

[theuglychick]

Ok, thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for all your help.

This is great information to know.

 

[duluthralphie]

Hi,,,

I do things a little differently but I am a BIO-SECURITY-Nazi ( Jerry Seinfeld soup Nazi guy)..

The broodies are fine up here, Broodies are easier to get approval than incubators and hatchers, as you do not need to disinfect and have a separate hatching room.

Testing is much easier because I am a testing agent. However, I have to test every 3 months because I maintain AI and Salmonella free flocks. The turkeys require MG/MS testing every 3 months too.

Cleanliness goes a long ways. They do not expect perfect they just want you working towards getting better.

One has to be satisfied with their own Bio Security, if you are comfortable and doing something the inspectors will be happy.

Signs are important. I have signs everywhere. they love signs. The want to see you have a rodent control program of some kind here. Cats are way better than traps. I was using traps and poisons in the safety feeders, and not doing well on rodents.... 2 cats and all rodents are gone.. I was worried the inspector would not like the cat idea. She loved it! My inspector is a USDA Vet so I get a double whammy the state and USDA at same time.

The only "battle" I have had is having my turkeys and Chickens together. I made the argument Beings we do not test the chickens for MG/MS in Minnesota my Turkeys were an indirect measure of my chickens being MG/MS free. Turkeys would get MG/MS before the chickens did.

The other thing is BIRD ID. Make sure you have a method of keeping track of each bird. I use a color coded cable ties for this.

Also keep all your sales records, they want to know the date you sell a bird and where it goes. I am required to test all of my birds up to 100, Over 100 there is a formula they use, I think I tested 150 birds last time. Breeders or eaters if they are 5 months they get tested.

Make sure you have a chicken first aid kit, with Corrid, balms and antiseptics. I also have syringes, vitamins, antibiotics, Injectable B12, Water soluble electrolytes, Seven, Wazine and a few other things I never use....OH and they like to see the cling bandages. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE LATEX OR NITRILE GLOVES!

If you don't have this stuff they want to see no sick bird and an incinerator (crematory) or graveyard for chickens. I use propane as my main source of fuel to cremate the birds.

You will do fine I am sure. They are not out to bust you they want to make you better...

BTW I cannot test a bird to add it to my flock and call it NPIP. I am required to contact the state Vet or USDA vet and tell them why I want to bring in a bird that is not from a NPIP source. (in writing)...

Then I need to test the bird before I pick it up, If it is a turkey I need to submit a blood sample to the state and wait for results...Then I have to quarantine the bird for 30 days and test it again. Then I can bring it into my flock...


Good luck!

 

[theuglychick]

Thank you! This gives me some great ideas for areas that I can improve.

I haven't sold any chickens that I've produced yet. I've been holding off for this certification.

I've finally finished reading through the NPIP information. It's fairly straightforward.

How would y'all recommend sterilizing the inside of a wooden coop?

I clean out the shavings, remove roost bars, fans, heater, feeders, and waterers, clean them with bleach solution, spray the inside of the coop with Lysol disinfectant, scrub edges and rails with a brush and bleach solution. I feel like this is not really sufficient.

Is there a better product that can get into the porous and absorbent surface?

Thanks again!

 

[duluthralphie]

I just disinfected my coop last week, I have cement floor (sorta) it is pieces of pre-stressed concrete laying side by side with a small crack between pieces..

I use the garden hose and wash the entire insides of the building down. It cuts the dust and cleans cob webs. It is a pain in the rear to do, I use a barn broom and snow shovel to clean and push the water out the door.

Then I come back in and use the garden hose again with a pesticide sprayer hooked to it, I fill that with bleach and go over the entire building again,,walls, ceiling and floor.

It seems to work.

 

[theuglychick]

I meant to say that it's the "wood composite." The stuff on the walls in my main coop is like the mdf siding sheets that looks like paneling on the outside, that you hang on building exteriors and paint, but on the inside looks like particle board. I've always been afraid to hose it down fearing that it'll fall apart. That's why I spray down w/ bleach solution and Lysol.

Should I opt to fumigate? And if so, any recommendations on a product?

I plan to keep this as my grow-out pen and separate and move my main flocks to new breeder pens we are starting on this weekend.

My new breeding pens that we are building are mostly open, treated hardwood, and will be much easier to clean. I'm going to use sand and shell (shale?) flooring. With runs covered in flight netting.

I have been scheduled for a call to set up the inspection and testing appointment the first week in December!

I just disinfected my coop last week, I have cement floor (sorta) it is pieces of pre-stressed concrete laying side by side with a small crack between pieces..

I use the garden hose and wash the entire insides of the building down. It cuts the dust and cleans cob webs. It is a pain in the rear to do, I use a barn broom and snow shovel to clean and push the water out the door.

Then I come back in and use the garden hose again with a pesticide sprayer hooked to it, I fill that with bleach and go over the entire building again,,walls, ceiling and floor.

It seems to work.