Okay, few more questions....

Throughout this thread, weather or not it was mentioned I'm not sure but I forgot to ask, still air could be the cause for condensation at lower humidity levels. Still probably enough moisture for hatching though I would think. If its forced air and you are getting condensation then I think its time to have a serious debate on what method of destroying your hydrometer you will take.
Condensation at any percentage is a sure sign (in my book) that you have sufficent humidity regardless of instramental readings. I'll have to research that possibility though. Logically I can see where that would cause a difference. But, if that is an end product of still air then the question would arise: Does a still air incubator need less humidity at lock down to equal the same expectations of a forced air?
 
Throughout this thread, weather or not it was mentioned I'm not sure but I forgot to ask, still air could be the cause for condensation at lower humidity levels. Still probably enough moisture for hatching though I would think. If its forced air and you are getting condensation then I think its time to have a serious debate on what method of destroying your hydrometer you will take.

LOL! No Mercy on the Hydrometer!!

I got the one from Incubator Warehouse... and I *thought* that it was safe to assume it did not need Calibrated... I have a Still Air Hovabator that I am incubating in... and a 9300 LG that I am Hatching in... Love the Hovabator... the LG has been such a pain with temp regulation.

I did the salt trick and we will see come tonight how off I was during lockdown.
 
LOL! No Mercy on the Hydrometer!!

I got the one from Incubator Warehouse... and I *thought* that it was safe to assume it did not need Calibrated... I have a Still Air Hovabator that I am incubating in... and a 9300 LG that I am Hatching in... Love the Hovabator... the LG has been such a pain with temp regulation.

I did the salt trick and we will see come tonight how off I was during lockdown.
My first hatch I bought a brand new thermometer for my borrowed bator and I didn't check it-cause it was brand new- after my hatch pretty much bombed and I had to very late hatchers, one that survived and one that didn't, I bought three new thermometers and checked them to find the original thermometer was 6 degrees off...which explained my late almost non existant hatch. I have an LG fan forced, atm, older model. I am hoping to be able to get a new bator before I hatch again. This one just has too many hot/cool spots.
 
Condensation at any percentage is a sure sign (in my book) that you have sufficent humidity regardless of instramental readings. I'll have to research that possibility though. Logically I can see where that would cause a difference. But, if that is an end product of still air then the question would arise: Does a still air incubator need less humidity at lock down to equal the same expectations of a forced air?

With the heat and no air movement or very little the moisture will try to rise and it will settle on the windows. Like in your home if you get condensation on your windows, doesn't necessarily mean you have high humidity in your home, but it does mean you gave little air movement. Now put a fan on that window, the condensation will disappear, but the relative humidity in the home is the same. Also temperature variances from one side of the glass to the other will cause condensation.


LOL! No Mercy on the Hydrometer!!

I got the one from Incubator Warehouse... and I *thought* that it was safe to assume it did not need Calibrated... I have a Still Air Hovabator that I am incubating in... and a 9300 LG that I am Hatching in... Love the Hovabator... the LG has been such a pain with temp regulation.

I did the salt trick and we will see come tonight how off I was during lockdown.

I have heard nothing but poor reviews on the LG bators, and trust me I've been researching bators!!! Hova-bator all good reviews, not one bad one so far.
 
My first hatch I bought a brand new thermometer for my borrowed bator and I didn't check it-cause it was brand new- after my hatch pretty much bombed and I had to very late hatchers, one that survived and one that didn't, I bought three new thermometers and checked them to find the original thermometer was 6 degrees off...which explained my late almost non existant hatch. I have an LG fan forced, atm, older model. I am hoping to be able to get a new bator before I hatch again. This one just has too many hot/cool spots.

I have three thermomters, 2 new one old. One digital one mercury and one dial type with hydrometer. 3 very different reading, 1 very late hatch! On day 23 today float tested them, one egg went crazy! none sank nor did any float real high all were viable. So either these thermometer's are way off or there is major hot and cold spots in the bator. Im thinking both situations.
 
I have three thermomters, 2 new one old. One digital one mercury and one dial type with hydrometer. 3 very different reading, 1 very late hatch! On day 23 today float tested them, one egg went crazy! none sank nor did any float real high all were viable. So either these thermometer's are way off or there is major hot and cold spots in the bator. Im thinking both situations.
I know mine does. Under the heating element runs close to 2 degrees warmer than in the center of the bator and the corners run warmer. It wouldn't be bad if you were doing a smaller amount of eggs and could place them strictly around the outer edges and keep that at recommended temp and let the center be cooler, but when you have more than that area covered you have eggs in multiple temp ranges and rotating 30+ eggs on a regular basis is a pain right in the buttocks.
 
Well, today (Sunday) I did an eggtopsy. Out of the I had in there...only two were developed--had feet, beak and feathers. The others had little development. Guess we will try and make sure next time we have perfect heating and humidity... No swinging back and forth. Thanks for all your help.
 
I put them in a large pan of water. I was going to water float them....

ALL of the eggs had just the Air sack above the water.. then all of a sudden 3 eggs started moving all around the pan.. jiggling and wiggling... like.. no... we are in here!!

I ran back downstairs and put them in the bator....

What do you think of that?

The 21st day was on Friday....... Do you think that they are shrinkwrapped and Can't get out?? I had Humidity issues the whole LOCKDOWN... the highest that I could get it was 60- but I had condensation on the windows the entire time... so I am going to check my thermo. - I took it out of the bator... at this point I figured that it is useless anyway and It would be better to check it for the next hatch.
I'd suspect that your average temperature may have been lower than you thought it was. Leave them in the incubator.

It's really hard to candle at this stage unless you have a really bright light. So examine the air cell with the flashlight...look for drops of water that roll around in the air cell. That's bad.

What stage is the air cell development (compared to the reference image of 7 days, 14 days, lockdown)? It should be at the lockdown stage, covering approximately 1/4 of the fat end of the egg and tilted to one side. That's the side that will normally pip.

If there is no sign of the chick crowding the air cell and no sounds, then wait.

Look for shadows that may be a beak pushing into the membrane. That's good.

Listen for chirps or sounds.
 
well ... I did the salt test on my hygrometer and it was 70.. when it should of been 75... still no pips, sounds , or movement. It looks like there are air cells at both the bottom and top of the eggs on a couple... Bad I'm sure....Most all of them are at lockdown stage with the air cell. Only 2 are at between day 14 and lock down....

When do I throw in the towel?? I don't want to give up on them... but with no sign of piping-or movement toward the air cell I just don't know....

Would you wait until tomorrow..... Do another Float Test Tonight.... or just eggtopsy them tonight to find out exactly what it going on?
 

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